Click here to read Jennifer's latest article featuring the recent Howl 'N Prowl show. Big thanks to Jennifer for her contribution and Matt "Tiny" Romero and Sam Donaldson for hosting this awesome event!
This is a '48FL I been workin' on for about 2 years. We need an FL plumber-type intake manifold(3 3/8" length) and a Timer Head for those 2-piece points(like a Chevy 6 takes...) then we could run a good condenser, like a Blue Streak or Zenith. A '48/'49 actually had a steel manifold that was welded and smoothed out, but a bit later cast manifold would work for now . . .
This ol' 52K is one of my favorite motorcycles I've ever had . . . but they sure are weird. I mean what super genius came up with angled valves for better flow, and instead of angling the tappets - lets just angle the cam lobes - ground at 3 degree angle all the way around on exhaust and 1.5 degrees on the intakes??? What the heck?
I did have an old timer tell me that Sportster P grind cams work good in Ks and KHs . . and they ran 'em all the time for racing. I asked, "What about the cam follower rollers riding on straight lobed cams? The wheels would just ride on one edge? He said is did wear 'em out, but had less friction, like riding on a knife edge . . . and just for 20 laps around the track. I've never tried it . . .
. . . and '52-'53 crank pins/right flywheels press in with a key to help lock it - and line up the oil hole. Save money on nuts, locks, and screws? This actually ain't a bad system. It came back with the Twin Cams.
The DC-11 is an oddball. They say it's for an XLR, but the more I research, it's just a replacement carburetor for any of the other DC-6,7,10, etc. Anyway, I've had one for years. I took it all apart and compared with a bunch of other DCs...and I can't find anything different - except someone had silver soldered the #4 jet shut, and redrilled it smaller. I replaced it with a standard #4 (which is .057 hole) My float bowl was leaking, so I took it back off to reseal...and I thought, "I should just put that smaller jet in, see what it does." Well, I was surprised - after a few screw adjustments - this thing now rips ! That jet does nothing more but feed fuel to passage regulated by that fuel screw up above(on top) that should be adjusted 1 1/2-2 1/2 turns out(w/#4 jet). Now I need to run that screw at 4 1/2 to 5 turns out. I see there's a #1 Jet (.052) available. Maybe try one in your own DC if you're crazy enough to run one...and see what happens. Next time I take my bowl off, I'll get the jet drills and see what size it is for sure . . .
Got this panhead running decent now. I built a set of early heads (w/o-ring intake adapters). Runnin' 1/8" oversize nitrite valves with cast iron guides. Andrews springs set up to .550 travel and 1.340 installed height. Andrews #1 low compression cam. I like the Andrews 31, but in the stroker with increased compression - I'm getting some pinging at low speeds, and in high gear when tryin' to get with it . . . I set of the heads for an Andrews B or Leineweber L3S - so changes can be made without more valve spring set-up.
I built this bike for vintage touring - trying to use all H-D parts, ie: frame, engine, tanks, sheet metal, etc. Even if it had a dent, I still used it. Original H-D USA over ___________. (well you know) I had a couple sets of aftermarket tanks, and they just didn't fit right - so I picked up these original 1954 tanks, dash plate and dash, all bought separately - and everything bolted right on - no shims and plenty of time left for an ice cold High Life !