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  1. #1
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    Default Evo/ S&S E problem (>__<)

    Hello CC...my first post!

    I'm looking for some help...i've got an '05 Sucker Punch (stock 80" evo/ S&S super E). The bike starts and idles fine, but now every once in a while, the bike just sorta "bogs down" when i twist the throttle, and i'll have to pull off the road. When i rev the motor, it sorta feels like it's "gurgling"...and i'll have to keep revving it hard about 20-25 times...and then it will suddenly clear itself out, and then it's back to normal, running fine. I initially thought that there HAS to be some dirt bouncing around in the carb or something.
    I have cleaned the tank, petcock, fuel line, float bowl, jets, replaced plugs, everything was pretty clean...i can't figure out what the problem is!!

    Here's what i have discovered so far:
    1- When i first drained the float bowl, the little blue o-ring from the top of the ejector nozzle had come off, and was just floating around in the bowl for "who knows HOW long?". I've had the bike over 3 years now and it's always ran great until now.
    2- When i removed the accelerator pump cover from the carb, the round accelerator pump rubber diaphragm was not seated entirely in it's lip in the cap, a portion of it was pinched in between the metal cap and the carb body itself (and there was some dirt/ debris in with the accelerator shaft). I fixed this and cleaned everything.
    I thought for sure that must have been the problem, but no..it still does it.
    3- There is some (very little) residue where the manifold meets the rear port.

    I'm a newbie to these sort of repairs. This was the first time i had ever opened a carb!
    Could this be a timing issue? Or should i just re-tune the carb? Help me Obi-wan.

    Thanks.
    SOUP

  2. #2
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    Have you tuned the accelerator pump since you rebuilt it? It sounds like it's running really rich on that circuit. Back out the fuel on the accelerator pump and see how it does. S&S has a great how-to on their site for tuning an S&S.

  3. #3
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    "It sounds like it's running really rich on that circuit."
    I don't know what that means...LOL

    I can just check the plugs to see if it's running too rich or lean, right?
    I will have to check out the S&S website to learn how to tune the accelerator pump.

    Thanks.

  4. #4
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    You can read the plugs for a rich or lean condition correct. The thing is it sounds like this just happened out of the blue. If it were a timing issue reving it over and over wouldnt solve it. Check maybe for an intake leak or something, If all else fails tear the carb back down to make sure there is no corrosion anywhere just a little bit in a carb will cause a big issue. I cant see the carb becoming un-tuned unless you messed with it before hand.

  5. #5
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    Great info on S&S site... http://www.sscycle.com/carbquickguide/

  6. #6
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    If that blue oring isnt on the ejecter nozzle the bike will run like shit make sure thats on there.

  7. #7
    cntrhub
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    Where is that o-ring coming from? I do not know the product but here is one basic move or two... Say the o-ring was there for 3 years on the bottom of the bowl. You now have a problem with the running? It cleans up after awhile?

    Here is what I am saying... Without the o-ring, it is possible fuel can run up the threads of a jet. If say, you do not have that seal around the threads, that is one variable it cleans up being that close to the tune and that tiny bit of fuel messes things up. Again, I have no idea where that o-ring is placed. I do know you seal air around threads used for air screws. Some use an o-ring around accel pump holes between float bowl and body.

    We have a change in weather you sort of ride it more than the other 3 years gone by? I mean, you are saying you are riding it without touching it; seems strange the cold or hot mornings with starting would have some effect. Anyway....

    Could it be ignition? If you had points and they closed, that would be a variable. Thing is, you may have electronic ignition and they do not change or move in degrees. They are just too dependable as in a watch turns in a circle is that crank 360. And if you did not change the stroke, there is no need to change timing. Again, 3 years running and always starting is not ignition.

    See, it sounds like you are chasing a fuel to air ratio, you say it cleans up after a bit of riding.

    Say 3 years of who knows how many hard pounding miles that engine took? We need to stop chasing our tail, all of as sudden after 3 years, a rubber in the bowl, good running up til now, what is our compression? Over and over will this member pound you sound you... Think like a pro!

    First thing you remove from the 3 basic variables is compression. There are only 2 left in the fundamental move you are about to make certain you have all bases covered. Spark you know you have. Why chase spark or timing is my move says you don't.

    Fuel is most likely your problem and we know Ignition is out. BUT-Compression is hanging in the air you think you might give the ol' S&S a tune without covering that one basic step before you begin pouring money and time into swapping out parts it was low compression no matter how lean you set the fuel.

    Now, did you change an air cleaner or wash the air cleaner, or now run without an air cleaner; you see how complex, but then again, how simple you have to approach the Throttle LAG?

  8. #8
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    a little update:
    i replaced the accelerator pump diaphragm this morning (old one was slightly deformed from being pinched for 5+ years), then i took a 30 minute ride...with no problems (knock on wood).

    note- back when i first drained the float bowl a few months ago, and found the little ejector nozzle o-ring in the bottom of the bowl, i put it back where it belonged and it has not come off since then (it actually cannot just pop off on it's own anyway)...it's still a mystery to me how the bike ran practically normal for so long like that...weird.

    thanks guys

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