Rough Ironhead

[mowen]

Intake has been done properly (no leaks) pushrods are adjusted(double checked) re timed dyna s (front cylinder mark on flywheel in view laid plugs on cylinders flip on ignition rotate dyna clockwise till front cylinder plug sparked screw it down) compression test done holding throttle open 120 front 121 rear. What am I missing for it to run this shitty ??

This site will not let me post a video(12sec long)

[JBinNC]

You are not timing it correctly.

I posted how to do it on your other thread.

Jim

[mowen]

So I’m clear….
Advance timing mark is a vertical line?
Turning advance weights with trigger motor?(not timing plate)
I read your post, I’m lost after viewing advance mark in plug hole on flywheel. I need simple explanations from there please

[JBinNC]

OK, it's really easy once you do it a time or two.

What you have to do with these old motors is set the ADVANCED timing. The timing marks reference the front cylinder, so whether you have a single fire or dual fire ignition, you are going to set it on the front cylinder. You have to be sure that the front cylinder is on the compression stroke. I do this by putting a thumb over the front plug hole and turning the motor with the rear wheel until I feel compression forcing past my thumb. Then, keep turning the motor until the ADVANCE timing mark is centered in the timing hole. ( The timing mark also shows up when the front cylinder is in overlap, but you can't set the timing on that stroke.)

So, you have the FRONT cylinder on its COMPRESSION stroke and you have the ADVANCE timing mark centered in the timing hole.

Take both plugs and hook the plug wires to them. Lay both plugs on the motor so they are grounded. I lay the FRONT plug between the cylinders so I can see it from the right side of the motor.

Facing the ignition pickup, turn the ignition ON. With your fingers, grab the ignition magnet rotor and twist it counterclockwise. In doing so, you are ADVANCING the ignition manually. When the magnet trips the pickup, the front plug will fire, You should be able to see and hear it fire. The object of this is to have the plug fire exactly when the magnet rotor reaches its FULL ADVANCE stop.

You need to adjust the location of the pickup plate until you achieve this condition. When adjusting the pickup plate, turn the ignition OFF. (And do not leave it on for more than the seconds it takes for you to do this operation. These units don't have dwell control, and if you leave them ON, they will fry your coil.)

I hope this is helpful to you,
Jim

[mowen]

So still a little confused. Grab the magnet rotor??? The small black round piece under the bolt that opens and closes flyweights? Hold that counterclockwise with advance mark in plug hole and if it sparks its timed? Then how do I adjust plate? Apologize for the questions but I obviously don’t know much about this part of the puzzle

[JBinNC]

Yes, you have it. Just adjust the plate a little at a time until when you twist that rotor and it hits its stop, the plug fires.

This is a dead nuts timing method. I've used it on race bikes, and a ton of street bikes, and it is FOOLPROOF once you get the hang of it.

Jim

[mowen]

Really appreciate it

[mowen]

Yes, you have it. Just adjust the plate a little at a time until when you twist that rotor and it hits its stop, the plug fires.

This is a dead nuts timing method. I've used it on race bikes, and a ton of street bikes, and it is FOOLPROOF once you get the hang of it.

Jim

Runs slot better! I think it’s really close. Popping out of carb at idle but rode a few miles and not doing it with throttle on. Black plugs so I should throw a new set in after all this mis timed nonsense.

[mowen]

Yes, you have it. Just adjust the plate a little at a time until when you twist that rotor and it hits its stop, the plug fires.

This is a dead nuts timing method. I've used it on race bikes, and a ton of street bikes, and it is FOOLPROOF once you get the hang of it.

Jim

I am getting coughing out of the carb which was not happening before the flyweight spring breaking incident. Should I barely advance the timing?

[JBinNC]

Spitting or coughing out of the carb is an indication of a lean mixture or possibly a sticking valve. You stated that the intake manifold was properly installed, and so we will assume no vacuum leaks. Given that, I would make the intermediate jet larger, until the cough goes away. You may have to make the main jet smaller in order to prevent a rich condition at higher rpm. It's a balancing act.

If you decide that you want to advance the timing, you want to position the flywheel timing mark for the extra advance you want and then go through the timing procedure again. That is because small moves of the pickup plate can make a big difference i timing, and to prevent missing your desired timing, setting it by the flywheel mark is the way to do it. The timing hole in the case is about 8 degrees wide, so for instance, if you positioned the advance timing mark at the back edge of the hole, you would be setting the timing 4 degrees advanced from the factory setting, or 35 + 4 = 39 degrees.

Jim

[mowen]

Got it.
The only thing with changing jet sizes is it ran and idled solid with the set up that the carb has now. The only change was flyweight spring change out and rear head rocker gasket. I’m gonna take the carb off clean it and stick it back on.

[mowen]

Is another option moving the backing plate in either direction while at ide(running) a good way to get it perfect?