Stupid CV carb questions

[Tater66]

1995 Sporty 883

I was breaking down the carb for a rebuild only to find a seized idle mixture screw. Previous owner(s)/shop monkeys had broken the tabs/slot and I screwed the pooch by trying and EZ Out. Zinc shavings usually mean the threads are toast. Im reasanbly sure its fucked.


SO....I'm in the market for a used carb.

1. Is a CV a CV ? Meaning..will any carb work? I suppose its not important what the part number is or what year it was made.

2. Is there a preferred part number ?

3. Should I be allowed to take a drill and hack on a carb again?




Edit,,, I did search and for the most part a CV is a CV. Some with accelerator pumps and some not. Please feel free to call me an idiot for swinging for the fence on the drill.

[farmall]

Ya just couldn't resist doing it wrong and everyone's fucked up that way on something at least once so no shame in that game unless you're EOD.

If you ever have to do it again soak the threads in penetrant after warming the carb body with a heat gun (I fucking love heat guns and collect 'em at yard sales) or torch.

Then if you must drill is make an angle plate out of whatever or use box tubing but ya need to hold the body securely and square to the drill press you use. If you must use a hand drill the little chucks sold for Dremels work well.

Take a scriber tip or similar and under BRIGHT light center punch the screw. Verify with a magnifying glass or loupe. Then using a tiny drill start a pilot hole. Verify it's centered before drilling into the screw. (60 thru 80 bit sets are under ten bux and also drill low speed jets, you want one.) Have the replacement screw in hand so you don't select too large a bit. Do not drill too far (see new screw for referenc) then use a small extractor very gently. If screw is stuck hit again with heat and penetrant but I've never had one need it.

If you have an ultrasonic (really vibratory) cleaner you can let the carb body sit in there for as long as you like and that may help the solution get into the threads. My bro does other tiny hardware that way.


BTW Japanese screws are JIS not Phillips and one of these belongs in every carb kit. I gave some out for the holidays and my bros love 'em too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E55DL4I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have a cheap no-name six point 1/4" drive socket set for hex jets and a generic palm ratchet, but they have nice gimbal and other styles cheap. Scroll down for examples. That lets me work on installed carbs easily including turning screwdriver bits.

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-81027-Drive-Gimbal-Ratchet/dp/B00EYTBVWO/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_w=HzJii&content-id=amzn1.sym.116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_p=116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_r=854Z6CYQMY0A6CB9SE4P&pd_rd_wg=GZKEo&pd_rd_r=c9936ff7-b981-45df-be21-3e17fb1a3b2b&pd_rd_i=B00EYTBVWO&psc=1

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Sportsterpedia carb section:

http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:carb02

IIRC only the earliest HD CVs had no accelerator pump but I've not handled one. I'd prefer the pump of course but remember stock jetting is lean for emissions either way so if no one responds check or post on xlforum and someone will know optimal sizes for your 883 as that place is a Sporty gold mine.

NEVER use wedge style screwdrivers on jets which exist to be cheaply made and are basically small pry bars. I use bits for almost everything instead. Use at least "hollow ground" bits but the best way is my mentor's trick:

Take a round shank long screwdriver bit then use a fine rock on a Dremel to grind the tip so it looks like
)(
This grabs brass and other soft screws by the bottom of the screw slot instead of smearing them. Take your time and work neatly. I like checking with a magnifying glass.

Common hollow ground tip on a Brownells driver:

https://gunblast.com/images/Brownells-Screwdrivers/DSC04854.jpg

[Tater66]

Your right, Farmall. Didnt bother to soak or heat it up. Tiny pilot was dead on center. Secondary bit walked on me but tried the EZ out and only managed to "drill out" more brass. Third bit with corresponding EZ was the deal breaker.

Not surprised. This heap has had more junk wind up in the recycling bin than any other mechanical thing Ive ever owned.

[Tater66]

OK, 2005 CV carb in hand and ready to install. On to next stupid question.


Intake seals. My long ball end hex sockets are hitting the heads and not seating in the bolts. I have a cut down allen wrench that was used on an EVO project years ago but I can only get a minor amount of swing. Bolts are backed off about a half a turn and have been soaked in PD Blast. . I cannot get a bite on the bolts with what I have. The bolts are very hard to turn most likely due to never being removed after factory assembly.

Whats the secret to getting the bolts out? I suppose I could go after them with Vise Grips. Then how to get them tightened after new seals ?

[JBinNC]

Once you do get them out, change them for 12 point screws. You may have to grind a little wrench clearance on the manifold. And you will need a GOOD box wrench (5/16, 12 point). I have done this so many times that I have a drawer full of the old Allen heads.

Jim

[farmall]

Pinching them by visegrip is one way I break torque then soak in penetrant after heating and leave overnight if very stuck, or just rock them back and forth a few degrees ten or fifteen times to help the penetrant and wear off whatever crap is in the threads.

I weld pieces of scrap rod as T handles to my visegrip adjusters which provides MUCH more clamping force than a manual squeeze. You can also tighten the adjusting screw with a visegrip or small pipe wrench. That pays off when pinching round parts like socket head cap screws.

Corrosion is what causes seizures and anaerobic locking adhesives exclude moisture as does anti-seize. Naked threads are Satan's playground.

Once you do get them out, change them for 12 point screws

A very good idea Ram Jett included with their out-of-production solid intakes.

[Tater66]

Success !

It seems, not all ball end hex are made the same. The newish set was not cut around the ball/shaft as much as an older set I have. I quit using the older set due to ball breakage on a couple of 'em. Anyone tried getting a 3/16" ball out of a outer primary bolt? It sucks and the reason for the new set.

Will find some 12 point bolts and run a tap thru the holes for good measure.

So Im open to suggestions on bolts. Gold cad plated, stainless, black oxide, ect.