solid riser bushings for early FL

[NoSprk]

so im a little confused and am trying to get clarification.

i want to install solid risers and am hoping to find something to fit.
i have some big aftermarket risers so i want it to be flush up top.

these are the style of bushings in my top tree right now. (see pic)

everything i see for sale seems to be for 73+ bikes.



should i keep the steel sleeve inside and hog out the old rubber and use a newer style?

thanks in advance

[farmall]

Do you care about the slop-inducing rubber or are you fine with solid bushings? Self and many others hate the rubber bushing shop and replace them with solid bushings (it's easy lathe work if ya have to farm it out) or use thick washers (stainless preferred).

[JBinNC]

If you want to replace the bushings as pictured with something solid, press the entire bushing out. Don't leave the outer sleeve in place. Replacement solid pieces are easy lathe work as F. says above. You will probably have to have a thin lip proud at the top and bottom, since the bore for those bushings is straight through, if I remember correctly. At one time, Barnett offered solid replacements for those bushings, but I don't know if they are available anymore.

Jim

[farmall]

Another way to remove that style bushing is point a torch down each center tube and the heat will melt the rubber then ya can push it out with whatever is handy by hand (works great on car and truck rubber/urethane bushings too. I do the torch work outdoors with a bucket of water handy since it's smoky and drips molten rubber. I often use my cutting torch with a water tub below to instantly cool da drippings then dip the part to cool the workpiece. The torch method removes the most annoying part (the rubber and inner sleeve) so even though I have a press I prefer to get the rubbers out by fire then use a press on the remaining sleeve which is easier to work with as an open sleeve esp. when using a stepped bushing tool.

I'd torch out the rubber and inner sleeve to remover that obstacle as it interferes with things like stepped bearing drifts.

You can use some allthread and tubing/pipe to act as a screw press if you don't have a personal press but your local automotive machine shop can remove them using their press for cheap or perhaps a case of beer (best timing is usually a Friday afternoon). I don't bother with phone tag and show up in person since phones are annoying and people skills get favors.

[NoSprk]

yes i want solid bushings. after what seemed like hours on the internet i found out i actually have these installed.



i cant get much of any dimensions of other styles. i dont like these because they do sit above the top of the tree, leaving a gap on my new 1.5" wide risers. and the lower one tapers down to such a small area to tighten the nut on.

i dont have access to anyone with a machine shop and any shop around here seems to be weeks booked out. the one i like the most is great so hes always busy.

i guess ill just reuse these for now. the lower is a little smaller than the upper.

If you want to replace the bushings as pictured with something solid, press the entire bushing out. Don't leave the outer sleeve in place. Replacement solid pieces are easy lathe work as F. says above. You will probably have to have a thin lip proud at the top and bottom, since the bore for those bushings is straight through, if I remember correctly. At one time, Barnett offered solid replacements for those bushings, but I don't know if they are available anymore.

Jim

Do you care about the slop-inducing rubber or are you fine with solid bushings? Self and many others hate the rubber bushing shop and replace them with solid bushings (it's easy lathe work if ya have to farm it out) or use thick washers (stainless preferred).

[docmel]

I used washers as already said Cant stand the rubber bushings

[pedrodelion]

Andy at Pangea Speed makes the best solid bushings in my humble opinion. He's sold out right now but will probably have more soon.

https://pangeaspeed.com/products/han...t-kit-35-39-41

[farmall]

3/16" thick stainless washers work too. You can measure the hole and the solid inserts you have to choose alternatives.

Many hardware stores don't carry thick stainless but Ebay is a decent source.

[NoSprk]

i ended up leaving the rubber bushings inside as a guide. used the bottom part of the current solid mounts i had. i grounded down the tapered end so the nut sits flush and has more area to bite into. since the new risers are wider than the holes in the tree they sit flush. biggest pain was finding 7" 1/2" allen head bolts. none of the solid bushings i seen for sale are the correct size besides the style i currently have.