@Jackbosak_ Peoples Champ Build Thread 2023

[JBOSAK]

Hey guys, I am going to start to document my 2023 Biltwell peoples champ build on here as well on my Instagram (@Jackbosak_). The donor bike is a 1995 Heritage Softail. I picked it up yesterday, higher mileage bike but the price was right. My plan with this bike is a bike I can ride long distances on without any hiccups. Built to ride hard and far. Evo with a 5 Speed and I'll probably keep the electric start. I am probably going to do a open belt drive as well. My day job I am a CAD designer so most of the build will be done in solidworks before I start any fab work.

[JBOSAK]

Here is the last bike I built. I had a build thread on here for this one but it somehow got deleted.


Some more pictures on this website.
https://jackbosak.wixsite.com/bosak/about-3

[farmall]

Cobalt blue and black complement each other nicely. Clean scoot proving ordinary humans can afford a classy ride.

[ExplodingCoffinEmporium]

Hey guys, I am going to start to document my 2023 Biltwell peoples champ build on here as well on my Instagram (@Jackbosak_). The donor bike is a 1995 Heritage Softail. I picked it up yesterday, higher mileage bike but the price was right. My plan with this bike is a bike I can ride long distances on without any hiccups. Built to ride hard and far. Evo with a 5 Speed and I'll probably keep the electric start. I am probably going to do a open belt drive as well. My day job I am a CAD designer so most of the build will be done in solidworks before I start any fab work.

Looking forward to the thread man keep on truck’n

[JBOSAK]

Here is my donor bike. It’s almost too nice to tear apart.

[farmall]

Lots of saleable parts are what I see, and the more stuff you remove from a stock Evo (which didn't make much power for its size new) the better.

It would be interesting to weigh the donor and the completed project especially if you hardtail it because that Sloptail ass end is HEAVY. Sprung traditional seats weigh less and unlike purty bar bike seats don't fire your spine out your asshole on bumps. (I strongly suggest taking care of your back because when it goes your life becomes impressively nasty!) That's why my Pan Parts Pile at Drag's has a sprung seat post (you can retrofit those).

Keeping the starter is wise. Ya can always hang a kicker off the five speed for looks and convenience but it's smart to keep a powerful battery because (like with welding machines) ya can't use amps ya don't have.

Being a CAD designer you could do interesting stuff I'm not far enough along to do quickly (chronic pain forced me to quit college after destroying my sleep cycle and I've been busy with my limited time since) like a custom motor plate al la Seaking's very nice work but with e-start provisions. Modern belt drives tend to be gaudy not clean and lack the classic ribs of the Art Deco classic HD design era.

If you do a nice one you only have to code it once and might make some cash off a small, low risk production run. (Maybe trade some CAD work for the machining. Many small machine shops have someone who can do CAD but are either maxed out or not pure CAD draughtsmen.) I've not checked current billet prices but we normally got at least three quotes because prices vary absurdly! Five speed conversions for Shovels are becoming more popular and anything using the Softail shaft center distance would fit many HDs.

You do CAD and chobbers which opens all sorts of options without you coming out of pocket for much. When billet took off it was obviously a way to keep CNC machines running between higher dollar jobs since a machining center that's not running makes no profit. Many shops are maxed right now like my bros but when the next recession hits there will likely be open machine time just like the last one.

Just some food for thought but making (at first) one desirable part made many a biker business. Consider Pingel petcocks. They're so simple someone with a manual chucker lathe (I've met machinists who buy them because they can cycle faster than a CNC for small jobs and pay for themselves the first day, the bastids outbid me so I don't have one) could turn out the parts then send 'em off for plating. While whole belt drive kits would be pointless because the other parts are a saturated market motor plates fit whatever. The ancient HD design is convenient for machinists because the early ones were made using manual equipment so the parts are relatively easy to make.

[JBOSAK]

Farmall, I hope to be able to sell quite a bit of the stock stuff to recoup some cost. I always prefer to buy a complete bike. I bet after the diet I put it on it will weigh a lot less than stock. I have done a few electric start evos with a bdl belt drive. I have to make a starter support shaft and a main shaft support as not many people make that to buy. CAD is definitely a big help. Especially since I can have my computer with me everywhere and can always be working on the bike. Maybe someday I'll be able to find something to design that people would want on their bike. I also recently bought a 3D scanner so that will be huge on this build. Hoping to have something to show by the weekend!

[JBOSAK]

Looking forward to the thread man keep on truck’n

One day at a time!

[LisaBallard]

Thanks for creating a build thread, best of luck in the BPC!

[JBOSAK]

Thanks for creating a build thread, best of luck in the BPC!

Not everyone is on Instagram. And ChopCult is where I first started dreaming about building choppers. I hope someday someone digs though this thread and builds something cool because of it.

[tomsoftail]

I’ll agree with Farmall that a slop-tail doesn’t ride all that well. They’re simply isn’t enough ground clearance. The same rider on a stock Dyna will kill their time from a Softail. They’re good looking but not very agile without a lot of work.
I’m excited to see your project

[JBOSAK]

Got the motor out last night Now to clean up all the stock parts and get those listed to get some money back. The stock frame makes for a good engine/trans stand in one. I find its easier and faster to start fresh instead of adding to the stock frame.

[farmall]

Nice frame cradle, and perfect for this when ya get the chance. It will spoil you. (Now I need a bagger frame or two to slice up for rubbermount stands. I'll visit a dealer and bring my recip saw.)

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52133

[JBOSAK]

Nice frame cradle, and perfect for this when ya get the chance. It will spoil you. (Now I need a bagger frame or two to slice up for rubbermount stands. I'll visit a dealer and bring my recip saw.)

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52133

That's awesome! Way better than the Sheetmetal ones!

[JBOSAK]

Doing some 3D scanning of parts I plan to use.

[JBOSAK]

Making some progress on my model. I think I am starting to like the direction I am heading. I am going to use a different tank than the one in the model I think.

[farmall]

I agree the tank is not flattering. It sticks out rather than flowing gracefully.
Low tunnel tanks look best on single backbone frames where the backbone area is attractive. That one is a bit large for the rest of the machine detracting from the engine visuals. HD frames can be visualized as "triangles" and staying close to that overall outline produces the classic chopper effect. Even folk art has rules of proportion and it detracts from an otherwise narrow design.

As to details the more castings the better vs. visually boring welded necks and flat rear axle plates and the parts are available. Wasco have been around a while. Maybe Drag or JB know more about their quality. Details make the chopper as they give the viewers eye something to explore.

https://www.wascoframe.com/store/panhead-frame-parts

[JBOSAK]

I agree the tank is not flattering. It sticks out rather than flowing gracefully.
Low tunnel tanks look best on single backbone frames where the backbone area is attractive. That one is a bit large for the rest of the machine detracting from the engine visuals. HD frames can be visualized as "triangles" and staying close to that overall outline produces the classic chopper effect. Even folk art has rules of proportion and it detracts from an otherwise narrow design.

As to details the more castings the better vs. visually boring welded necks and flat rear axle plates and the parts are available. Wasco have been around a while. Maybe Drag or JB know more about their quality. Details make the chopper as they give the viewers eye something to explore.

https://www.wascoframe.com/store/panhead-frame-parts

I agree with everything about the tank. I'll have to look for another one. This one was 2 softail tanks cut in half and welded together to make one.

As for the axle plates I know I need to do something more than just flat plates. I am thinking of machining something. I'm not sure what yet.

As for the springer goes I bought a replacement set of springs from a vtwin springer I think and it has 4 springs 2 go on the inside from what I have seen but I have also seen that guys don't run any springs on the inside of their springers. I designed the rockers off some info I read on https://chopperbuildershandbook.com/rockers-1.html
I am still learning as I go and having fun doing so.

[JBOSAK]

Here is a different tank I had laying around. Still not sure if I like this one or not. Made some more progress on my springer but I think I need to change up how I have the bolts setup for the rockers.

[Nanonevol]

Obviously an artist.