going to look at servi frames

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  • shank1kole
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2015
    • 227

    going to look at servi frames

    Hello all
    I recently traded an S&S/HD mixed parts shovel for a 65 G motor(flathead 45) with title.The fella I got the engine from has 2 servi frames I'm going to look at.
    Im going to check for straight / obvious damage.Is there anything servi specific i should look for?
    Different rake angles for different years or anything like that?
    I may cut the rear and make a solo.........
    Do a supercharged scooter with a Baker 6 into 4...... that would shure change the top end outlook, just gotta squeeze it in there.
    Thanks for any replies
    Attached Files
  • flatman
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2017
    • 550

    #2
    3 bolt tranny mounting vs the 2 bolt? And if your going Baker doesnt make any difference. Also look for the fatbob mounts as the early ones would have VL type tank mounts (actually RL) and the rear has mechanical vs hydraulic rear ends, but not sure if the frame is different for this. But again if ya go solo doesnt matter.

    Comment

    • farmall
      Senior Member
      • Apr 2013
      • 9983

      #3
      A huffer would look interesting. What's the smallest Roots style blower?

      Here's a 2-71 for comparison. https://dieselpro.com/detroit-diesel...1-rebuilt.html

      Comment

      • rockman96
        Senior Member
        • May 2018
        • 895

        #4
        Aisin makes some nice little roots blowers for cheap. Not sure which would work best on the 45, They make the AMR300 and AMR500... That is 300cc/rev, and 500cc/rev, respectively.

        The AMR 500 Supercharger is a small Roots type unit with about 500 cc displacement. It is the heart of the V4 M.O.A.B AMR 500 Kit for a small bump-in power on 4-cylinder engines, such as the BMW M40/

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        • farmall
          Senior Member
          • Apr 2013
          • 9983

          #5
          That Aisin is a nice design with the real point of a huffer on an engine that makes no HP without fragging, CAST RIBS and Deco style.

          An appropriately sexy alloy pulley system would cover some of the stamped cover beneath the pulley and the cover itself could be replaced by one machined from something else with cast ribs that's larger, maybe an Airhead BMW stock oil pan (often removed to install the deep sump aftermarket version).

          The inlet and outlet could likewise get a restyle to either use cast parts or weldments finished (needle scaler etc) to look cast. (I'll have to do something with my motor plate to make it look cast so I'll be gunning a variety of scrap to experiment.) Done cunningly it could look deceptively vintage.

          Since it's a custom the gearbox need not be early and could be a later five speed with a kicker to get the look, save $$ and run any clutch desired.

          While six-speeds are popular it may not need one depending on normal cruising RPM. It can't hurt to determine your real power band before changing parts from stock then buying exactly what your experience suggests.

          Comment

          • shank1kole
            Senior Member
            • Dec 2015
            • 227

            #6
            Im going the chop route !
            The frames were twisted with a lot of work to get right.
            leafer front end. got an old paughco frame to cut up.
            The little Aisn 300 blower is perfect ,plan is to run a 1/2 belt off the primary drive. I already have a Baker 6 speed in a 4spd case. going to be a fun one.
            Thanks for the replies all!

            Comment

            • farmall
              Senior Member
              • Apr 2013
              • 9983

              #7
              A blower that light and small shouldn't require a toothed belt and smooth sheave pulleys are easy to machine or buy blank then bore to suit to get your preferred blower RPM. You could bench test RPM/boost relationships without the motorcycle by hanging the blower off a simple mount then driving it with the electric motor of your choice and reading RPM with a simple cheap mechanical machinists tachometer. Easy to do vs. trial and error on an engine ya don't want to damage.

              O2 sensor bungs are cheap and easy to add to your keeper exhaust or some test pipes (a tasteful AFR indicator housing could look chopulent while concealing the homely indicator). The closer your bike becomes to a crude dynamometer the less boring shitwork you get to do leaving time to make it sexy.

              Comment

              • shank1kole
                Senior Member
                • Dec 2015
                • 227

                #8
                Very true Farmall!
                I will prolly make multiple ugly setups before I find the pretty one. I do not have enough art education!
                I ..... f ..... with it........ till I like it!
                I want this to be a little cleaner + more art deco, compared the funk I usually go for.
                I will do a build on it, but Im looking end of winter to spring.

                I am roofing my garage addition now,I have poured a pad for a 18x20 bike room.
                Still have to timber frame it, then final tune My turbo trike that took me years........ due to health bullshit!
                Im healthy and back though.
                I have never had a BLACK bike........ I am thinking of silver leafing the frame and triple black or old chrome everywhere.
                Also gonna have some Walnut. I am thinking of some laminate wood/steel bars as well.

                Comment

                • rockman96
                  Senior Member
                  • May 2018
                  • 895

                  #9
                  The convenient thing about those Asians, they can run either direction. Makes for easier mounting and setup.

                  Comment

                  • farmall
                    Senior Member
                    • Apr 2013
                    • 9983

                    #10
                    Also gonna have some Walnut. I am thinking of some laminate wood/steel bars as well.
                    I've never seen checkering done on wood handlebar grips and you might consider checkering both wood and steel. See 1800s classic firearms for examples and Brownell's etc for the hand tools.

                    If you're devious you could use round bar for handlebars then join your checkered stainless (no point in carbon which rusts or plating which is problematic on roughened surfaces) and wood grips with castable urethane for vibration damping in the koolest manner. The point of my suggestion isn't all decorative, it's also to CYA if you fuck up one side since making grips instead of an integral bar lets you install an ideal pair.

                    Parts like that work best as part of a theme of similar parts. If you make samples to select the theme most worth your time you can carry it far as you like including dash inserts, rims on instruments etc.

                    Comment

                    • shank1kole
                      Senior Member
                      • Dec 2015
                      • 227

                      #11
                      I will be trying to use wood in a structural way as much as possible.
                      Wood footboards, mounting bungs,
                      Been thinking about the wood bars for a while.
                      I'm taking a 1/8 stainless flat bar bent in a form.... then say 1/16 layers of walnut.... steamed to bend, then glued in another squeeze form, then router round and hand finished. more of a ww2 use of wood on planes and guns etc...which I hope will look correct on this.

                      Comment

                      • farmall
                        Senior Member
                        • Apr 2013
                        • 9983

                        #12
                        Knifemakers have some interesting techniques for scales.

                        Comment

                        • BuddhahoodVato
                          Senior Member
                          • Apr 2010
                          • 2469

                          #13
                          Good luck, reads like your making work. Buy a single frame, why make a frame. As for Bakers tranny, it's a 45ci, not much more.

                          Comment

                          • shank1kole
                            Senior Member
                            • Dec 2015
                            • 227

                            #14
                            I hear you on making work for myself. Honestly though I laughed at that, cause....... MAN ALL THIS SHIT IS WORK.I also would like to spend a hundred on tubing and bar stock, rather than over a grand for a frame.Most original frames in good condition are over 2000 it seems.As there is no need for frame numbers etc, why not make a custom frame from the scraped one in hand? I also look at the Baker as a 5 speed with overdrive that looks complimentary to the engine design. I do not see your guys reasoning on not needing more gears,let alone because its a 45 ci. Thats the exact reason I want it. If I could put a ten speed behind that little 45 I would and it run like a little porsche, rather than a VW. If I want to take this any distance, I thought the overdrive would be nice.I understand its a whole other task than buy and build.I would rather take my time, cause I love working on my bikes and money is getting tighter out there so I keep my projects within my budget.and they take a long time. I am a little different than most and I am fine with it
                            I truly appreciate all viewpoints, you all shed light the dark spots of my ideas. Be Well

                            Comment

                            • farmall
                              Senior Member
                              • Apr 2013
                              • 9983

                              #15
                              You can measure then determine if and what gearing it will need by riding it first as those five speeds are so easy to work on, then choose which six speed options you want. I would consult Baker tech support because incorrect gearing will just piss you off. The DD 6 ratio spread with tall finals work better with a blower than the OD 6 in your application. At least you can use stock clutches with easy clutch pull (the larger throwout bearing can fit the stock or reduced effort HD ramps by making one easy spotface so the wafer bearing races fit),

                              I also like more gears (and a tall final drive) and with a feeble engine like a 45 more shift points permit less gap between gears. Final gearing should of course avoid lugging the engine. The blower won't feel a thing so best to start conservatively. (Hoarding more cases with titles would be wise too, that stuff is drying up and it's not like the old days of the David Sarafan adverts trying to dump milsurp cheap.)

                              45 gurus can chime in with ways to let those engine rev a bit more and be more reliable with a blower. I run oil coolers on everything and being a hot rod you can go large or very large then make it sexy rather than an eyesore.

                              Guru question: What breaks first on a hotrodded 45?

                              We don't do this stuff for transportation, we do it for fun so why not make a frame (after first fabbing the frame jig of your dreams since they make life so easy and used steel with a few hunks of new is affordable) the way you prefer? A large custom oil bag (stainless sheet looks great and would be immortal, my bro did a gorgous Panhead horseshoe tank in stainless as USAF sheet metal practice I should have photographed but that was before smart phones, Carbon steel is fecal by comparison) would be functional and sexy.

                              Stainless tubing can be found with some looking/creative scrounging and a completely stainless frame would be gorgeous, need no paint and you could piss on it with no problem (may be relevant at parties). Ya gotta purge stainless and or use Solar etc flux but it's welded every day including high pressure aircraft hydraulic lines (if ya can find a contractor who makes those they might sell you some pieces and chime in with advice or more, bikers turn up where we least expect them!).

                              Relieved of any need to paint stainless parts means you have more time and money for the stainless and other parts. The Easyriders Mystery Sled was terribly photographed (yellow filters suck for that work) but shows in silver paint what one could do in metal, and if ya take off too much steel ya can always put it back. A paint-free blown 45 would be seriously different.

                              Aircraft hose clamps make wiring and plumbing anchorage sexy (boot colors vary, check out Ebay for aircraft surplus clamps, and remember you can shorten long clamp boots of a color you like by trimming the plain end. They are either aluminum or stainless.

                              ARP make high strength stainless hardware but the ubiquitous cheap stuff can be had MUCH cheaper than retail by buying online. That's how I keep bench stock.

                              A stainless and wood inlay theme (kept clean and slender, not like Bubba's gaudy hair metal fantasy shit) could look great with some forethought.
                              Last edited by farmall; 10-21-2022, 1:11 PM.

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