76 Ironhead with WATER coming out of the oil drain

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  • AmySueSporty
    Junior Member
    • Oct 2015
    • 5

    76 Ironhead with WATER coming out of the oil drain

    I looked all around and could not find a Thread in the forum with a discussion topic on this- because I'm sure it doesn't happen often. But here goes:

    My 1976 Ironhead has been sitting for about a year- due to a divorce and moving, and it being held captive from me by my abusive X- Benny Stucker..

    I drained the oil the other day and found about 2-3 CUPS of water sumped under the oil- My rear spark plug was finger tight, and the only way I can figure the water got in, was through that spark plug hole.. curious, right? The bird deflector on the carb was intact and sealed well, with no signs of water pouring in...

    My question here is 3 fold.
    One: has anyone ever successfully unstuck the heads with the transmission fluid/pb blaster soak and a rubber mallet?
    Two: what other damage can I look for? I have a scope and all that..
    and
    Three: Anyone have any tips, tricks or other advice in this arena?- and not just- swap the motor. Fortunately for me, this thing was completely rebuilt and had been freshly gone through when it was parked- again... a while ago. .. but does that matter?

    Any help is appreciated.
    THANK YOU
  • docmel
    Senior Member
    • May 2015
    • 886

    #2
    Just me.....

    I have gotten old motors (HDs, V8, 4 cylinders, etc) that have sat for years to fire right up in most cases with a liitle clean up

    Bore scoping helps (Which wont tell you everything) but in your case, I would remove the heads and pull off and take a look at the cylinders and see if you see rust: If so, and since you just had complete rebuild, do a quick hone and new rings, drain as much oil as you can, refill and fire it up, followed by another oil change(s). Maybe run some marvel mys oil in your valve train as well before starting. You never know, you might have a running bike.

    With the cylinders off, you can snake a small hose down and siphon off whats left in the lower case to a point (Cant remember if you have drain plug or not in your lower case)

    Also, check the gas tank, clean the carb, fill with new fuel

    You never know where the water came from, could be your ex poured water thru the carb, in the gas tank, etc, or it just bled thru the loose spark plug

    Comment

    • AmySueSporty
      Junior Member
      • Oct 2015
      • 5

      #3
      Originally posted by docmel
      Just me.....
      You never know where the water came from, could be your ex poured water thru the carb, in the gas tank, etc, or it just bled thru the loose spark plug
      I appreciate the response- I will be working on this over the weekend.

      My bike is never loose- spark plugs included. I built this bike back up from nothing- The carb was sealed to the bird deflector perfectly and had no sign of water entering it. He already burnt the titles to this and my other 2 bikes, flattened the tires, put dead mice in my softail heads, and torched all my manuals. I'm gonna just take a stab in the dark and say it was him. I'm placing the blame where it belongs- and telling everyone.

      Comment

      • docmel
        Senior Member
        • May 2015
        • 886

        #4
        Hmmm

        My rear spark plug was finger tight, and the only way I can figure the water got in, was through that spark plug hole.

        You said a spark plug was loose. which is why I went there

        Comment

        • farmall
          Senior Member
          • Apr 2013
          • 9983

          #5
          One: has anyone ever successfully unstuck the heads with the transmission fluid/pb blaster soak and a rubber mallet?
          I have as most seizures aren't severe (i.e. due to a little condensation on engines stored outdoors) but it doesn't always work. I don't use a rubber mallet as they're so feeble. I use some scrap UHMW or other plastic inserts in my split head hammers instead but a hunk of scrap as a buffer for a steel hammer works too.

          Some hammer porn. I scored mine cheap used and this shows what to look for:


          If penetrant or diesel without pressure does not work a classic way to free pistons is knock the guts out of a spark plug then tap the hole for a grease fitting. Remove the pushrods so all valves are closed. Fill grease gun with ATF and apply pressure. ATF makes a nice penetrant and can be mixed with acetone to enhance it. (The grease gun trick is also used to flush oilways in old machine tools, worked great on my ancient Bridgeport.) If the ATF leaks grease should seal well enough.

          If it didn't work I'd figger a way to mate a hydraulic hose to a spark plug body then use a manual hydraulic portapower. I've one of these for other uses. The style is common and cheap is fine. Mine went for 75 bucks on sale:



          The piston would have no choice but to move or the head gasket blow, and head gaskets can be replaced if they blow before freeing a piston.

          Some car machinists have drilled hunks of heavy scrap to bolt to engine blocks then used a center bolt to push stuck pistons found after head removal.

          IF the crankpin is near the BOTTOM of the stroke yet another way could be pull the heads, pull the engine, tear it down, remove the base nuts and rotate the crank so the jugs flange is past the studs then remove the cases from the crankshaft/jug rustball but I've only done that on a Triumph. We didn't have to cut any studs. Maybe another 33er had fought that battle on an Ironhead and knows.

          With the crankshaft freed if the rod kit is worth saving a hydraulic press could force the pistons out. If the rod kit is rusted I'd split the crank to remove the wheels then either continue the fight or replace the fucked jugs. If the cylinders were already maxxed out on bore they may not be worth saving since Ironhead parts are pretty reasonable.

          The Smokstak crew are gurus at freeing stuck engines. One of multiple threads:
          My father has a dead CT2 that we are trying to get the piston out of. We have been soaking it for a few weeks & it seems that some penetrant is getting through. I made a plate to replace the cylinder head with a tapped hole for a zerk fitting. The plan was to use a grease gun to pressurize...


          Good piece on the subject:


          Since you have a scope I'd put that in every orifice (the engine's anyway) to look for moisture intrusion.
          Last edited by farmall; 07-24-2022, 5:21 PM.

          Comment

          • AmySueSporty
            Junior Member
            • Oct 2015
            • 5

            #6
            Originally posted by farmall
            Since you have a scope I'd put that in every orifice (the engine's anyway) to look for moisture intrusion.
            LOL thank you- this was very insightful and helpful- I will be trying anything I can to save this babe. And I will try to keep the scope in the bike

            Comment

            • AmySueSporty
              Junior Member
              • Oct 2015
              • 5

              #7
              Originally posted by docmel
              Hmmm

              My rear spark plug was finger tight, and the only way I can figure the water got in, was through that spark plug hole.

              You said a spark plug was loose. which is why I went there
              Yes- loosened by a human. 3 cups of water wouldn't get in a bike that was in a shed.. no way no how.

              Comment

              • LastCenturyMC
                Junior Member
                • Jul 2021
                • 15

                #8
                Good thing there were signs of mischief, About 30 years ago while working at the dealer a customer who was going thru a divorce brought his 1981 sportster in which wouldn't turn over completely ending with serious starter bind. When we tore it down we found the evidence of the water in the top end. When he tried to start it that resulted in a set of bent connecting rods, proving Bernoulli's principle that liquids are incompressible. When the rods near the top of the compression stroke and couldn't move any more something had to give and it wasn't the water.

                Comment

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