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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2021
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    16

    Default S&S Super E can't lean out enough?

    83 ironhead XLX, lollipopped open drags

    I've read and watched all the S&S documentation/ videos. I've searched a ton. I get the basic concepts. I'm a fan of manuals and principal process. I am new to wrenching but not completely void of experience.

    So, my deal is this. All with the accelerated pump off. I have been jetting this carb. Starts great with minimal enrichment. Once warmed, half a block I can shut it off. It was from PO way too rich at 295 Int. And 72 main(I'm assuming). Carbon buildup in pipes, black smoke, smelled rich. Sluggish throttle. I fixed an intake leak last year. Maybe PO tried to compensate with bigger jets. Not sure.

    Dropped both jets incrementally. Right now I'm at 025 Int. And a 62 main... No symptoms of too lean condition. Runs through the rpm ranges better than it has since I bought it last April. Plugs look decent, I think. I have some oil getting into the cylinders so the section of plug that does not get oil on it has the dusty brown look.

    I can not get the S&S recommended 1.5 turns out from seated on the pilot screw. I can only get 1 full turn in the middle of lean and rich stumble. Plus my pipes still collect a new dusting of carbon build up after a 30 minutes brisk ride.

    Having the pilot screw at 1 turn out says I should lean it out. What gives?

    Thanks for looking.
    Last edited by HypoLuxa; 07-03-2022 at 3:30 PM. Reason: More info

  2. #2
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    First thing that comes to mind (because I see it a lot) is that the float level is too high and/ or the float needle is not sealing in its seat. So, the fuel level in the bowl is too high.

    Second, if you are using any but the S&S air cleaner, the bowl vent may be obstructed, or air flow is limited by the air cleaner.

    In my experience, smaller motors may require larger intermediate jets because the air velocity through the carb is not as great and so the fuel signal is weaker. And then the main jet is usually smaller because at higher rpm and load, the fuel signal is closer to what the carb was designed to do.

    That said, your jet sizes are way small for a 1000 cc motor. Something else is making that carb fat.

    Jim

  3. #3

    Join Date
    May 2015
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    Myself, why do you have the accel pump off? I agree with JB, check the float level and go back to all of the original settings/jets as per the factory recommendations: Then start the tuning procedure again as per SS

    Also, where are you located? High altitudes compound this prob. I live at 9300' and tuning a carb can be an issue. Running rich is an issue at high altitudes

    Im not a fan of lollipops on drags: All they do is reduce flow with no perf gains

    Get rid of those and run these:

    I have had them on my Pans, Evos and Twinkies that have straight pipes. Worth the 15 or so bucks and super easy to install

    https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Equipme...ref_=sv_auto_6

    You will see prices from 15 to 50 bucks, and they are all the same. I use the 15 buck ones, and they work fine

    And you doubters: Unless you have actually used them, dont downplay them

    A plus, I have also used them on FI models with straights and yes, they work

  4. #4
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    Wonder how heathy the motor is .. ??

    Might want to perform a leak-down test ... Just to be in the know ...

    Last edited by Dragstews; 07-04-2022 at 10:24 AM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Wonder how heathy the motor is .. ??

    Might want to perform a leak-down test ... Just to be in the know ...

    So true!

    Hard to tune leaky junk.

    Jim

  6. #6

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    Aug 2021
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    Ok, thanks for all the good ideas and info. I think right off the bat I'll check the float level. I did this last spring but I didn't realize how critical it is. So I'm assuming that's my problem. I'll start over from factory recommended jets once I get the float correct.

    Stock air cleaner.

    It says to turn off accel pump everywhere I look and I think even in the instructions. Makes sense to me so that pump doesn't hide what the jets are doing. I don't know. I just fell off the turnip truck though...lol

    Altitude about 500 feet

    The link you provided goes to a generic Amazon page. No specific product.

    As far leak-down test. I did perform one last year. It seemed within tolerance. But I should do it again to be sure. It would be good practice.

    Comp test proved over 180 on both cylinders but larger than 10psi difference, just barely.

    I should do that again too.

    I appreciate the responses. I'll make sure to finish this thread when I get back to it.

    Thanks

  7. #7
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    I have two comments, first, make sure the enricher is seating properly, get a little tiny piece of shit in there and it will just bleed fuel and mess you up big time.

    Second, listen to JBinNC, he was so dead on helping me with my Pan that it was not even funny! ( Drags know a thing or two as well, lol )

  8. #8
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    Docmel..... What exactly is that part that You recommend? that web link has nothing in it.
    torque cones? or baffles?
    I use chrome works HP baffles on my drag pipes & they work much better
    than the lolipops I tried in the past. I've never tried torque cones, They
    look to me like they would restrict air flow too much (at high rpm).

  9. #9

    Join Date
    May 2015
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    Here you go: Let me explain that these wont cure your carb issue. But I would run them regardless when running open pipes

    As far as your mixture issue goes, try contacting SS themselves for a possible solution: I know, it can be aggravating trying to connect with someone over the phone, but its worth a try Sometimes you get the right person
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails cones.jpg  

  10. #10

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    One last thing: Is your carb new or used? I have seen used ones so buggered up from the previous owner(s) with drilled out, or filled up jet passages that you cant even begin to figure out whats been done. Worn out throttle body shafts can give you weird symptoms

    Lastly, look at your fuel filters (Both in line and petcock) if you are running them. Clogged filters will give carb tuning fits

    And really clean that carb, all passages, etc and triple check that float level as said

  11. #11

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    Aug 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by docmel View Post
    Here you go: Let me explain that these wont cure your carb issue. But I would run them regardless when running open pipes

    As far as your mixture issue goes, try contacting SS themselves for a possible solution: I know, it can be aggravating trying to connect with someone over the phone, but its worth a try Sometimes you get the right person
    These torque cones won't work for my ironhead. Different mounting of pipes to exhaust port. But I have not read about them before so thanks for the suggestion. Same idea as lollipop. Sooner or later if like to get some pauco exhaust with mufflers. Try them out.

    Funny thing, I did not care for open pipes until I picked up this ironhead. Makes sense to me now. Classic. Would be nice to get the midrange back though. Feels like a pooch.

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  13. #13

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    They will fit Esp if you have 1-3/4 pipes. If you didnt know, they fit near the head, Remove the pipe, drop it in, mount the pipe back on, The exh flange on the head keeps it in place when the pipe is placed back on

  14. #14

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    Aug 2021
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    Just to add some closure on this thread.

    Reset float level to specification. I did have it a pinch high.

    I added a 1/4 inch insulator block between the carb and manifold.

    I'm able to get 1.25 turns out on the idle mix ratio. Everything seems to be running well. Still seems odd to be running such small jets, 025 Int., 62 main.

    Still want to drill out the main air bleed when I get some more time

    thanks for the help

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