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  1. #1
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    Default 92 1200 with dyna s ignition timing

    Quick question..
    Bare bones wiring
    92 1200xlh
    Dyna s ignition
    Front cyl is at TDC. With the straight mark.

    Key on position 3.
    I hav coil power at both sides.
    Is this normal.
    My short video showing.
    https://youtube.com/shorts/eqUroB0VGI0?feature=share

    Also with key on, rotating the timing unit it arcs on the motor casing. Normal?

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    Full retard it ran sorta.
    popped out the tailpipe instead of carb.
    Slowly rotating it with key off then trying it. At about 2oclock position it starts with high idle.
    S&s super E carb. Bottomed out idle screw n worked my way back with the dennis kirk video.
    Still pops n fire out the carb.
    Fogs also. I jus wana ride this bike
    Last edited by rabies; 1 Week Ago at 9:09 AM.

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    You must time the Dyna S on the advance timing mark for best results. The advance timing mark for the front cylinder on your motor is a dot that will appear low in the timing hole.

    Put the front cylinder on its compression stroke with the advance dot centered in the hole. Put both plugs in their wires, and ground the plugs against the motor, and in a position so that you can see one of them from the right side of the bike.

    Turn the ignition on and advance the magnet rotor against the advance weight springs. Just turn it counterclockwise with your fingers. The plugs will fire when the pickup senses the magnet. Adjust the pickup plate so that the plugs fire just as the advance unit reaches the limit of its travel.

    Don't leave the ignition on while you are fiddling with this. The Dyna S does not have dwell control and will overheat the coil if the ignition is left on and the motor not running.

    The sparks you may see at the pickup plate are because it gets its ground from the mounting screws, and if you loosen the screws to adjust, it may lose the ground. And those pickups really HATE that, and it will shorten its life. Either turn the ignition off when making adjustments, or hold the unit firmly against the cam cover so it stays grounded.

    Jim

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    Wow sir. Your on the $ all the time.
    Intermission.
    Key switch is faulty.
    Upon idling or touching it arcs in places n shuts off power.
    Removed n buying new one 2moro.
    To be continued

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    I get about ten years from the generic key switches and consider them consumable parts.

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    *UPDATE*

    i rebuilt the carb and cleaned it spotless.
    thought i had timing as per the help.

    i finally gave up and took it to a shop :/
    not sure why all the trouble with such a simple bike.

    they "said" they
    set timing. they said it was way off. still feels like it or fuel hungry
    intermittent bowl sticking bad needle (from a rebuild?)
    had a fouled plug
    and dialed in S&s carb.

    got it home.. battery was dead .. ok.
    charged battery.
    opened petcock. starts up. went down the road to fill up. on the way back it had no power after 3k rpm even when warmed up. kinda jerky. like running out of fuel or timing dies off?... pulled in garage. shut off bike. bowl pukes fuel everywhere.

    the bike has new tank. new 91 gas. new prismsupply 3/8 petcock. rebuilt carb. 0.295 n .72 jets. 1200cc supertrapp and paper air filter.
    im not an expert. i take it to a "supposed" expert. still not right. when does a person set their bike on fire on purpose?

    sorry this is long. maybe even ranting alittle.
    from "dialed in" not sure what to do since....its not dialed in i just want to ride my bike.

    (pic is with older exhaust)
    Last edited by rabies; 1 Week Ago at 9:08 AM.

  7. #7

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    You fucked up the carb when you rebuilt it.
    Harsh truth perhaps.
    The good news is you can take it off and try again.
    They should not have let the bike go in that state without a proper diagnosis at the least.
    You may have the float upside down , like I did when I first started working on my carb.
    lol

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    Battery dead? Why?
    Check alternator output, quick check is voltage across the battery terminals with the motor running and all lights on. Should be 14.2 - 14.4V at anything above idle, with a battery in good condition.
    The battery is best checked by load test. But, resting voltage should be 12.5 - 12.8V.
    A bad battery will cause all your symptoms.
    You should verify your advanced timing by the method I outlined in an earlier post. With a Dyna S, it could not be simpler. Even points are harder to time correctly.
    For the carb, if you are gonna run the small air cleaner pictured, you will need to jet down for the restricted air flow. Better yet, put the S&S air cleaner on it and it WILL run better.
    With the small air cleaner, you need to remove the alternate bowl vent plug at the mouth of the carb.

    Jim

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    battery was low because assuming them cranking on it while trying to get it to idle not hooking up a charger.
    terminal bolts were loose.
    float wasnt adjusted.
    wrong people to have sent it to.
    the battery is new but been beat on from trying to start it.
    the bowl vent plug is already out.
    perhaps ditch the paper element in it. i will try that. but cannot be permanent for I travel the gravel.

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    For the carb, if you are gonna run the small air cleaner pictured, you will need to jet down for the restricted air flow. Better yet, put the S&S air cleaner on it and it WILL run better.
    Tiny air filter housings are a bad idea. Sell to some hipster who thinks copying every bad idea from ancient times (there were many!) is cool. The tiny filters came from old 1 and 2BBL car carb retrofit kits to replace oil bath air filters (which worked great when properly serviced but got quite nasty vs paper ya can discard). It was a way to put a bit of chrome on an old grocery getter. They were a way to be different, I'd also be different if I stapled my balls together yet they remain unstapled. I prefer horsepower.

    You can leak check rebuilt carbs off the motorcycle which I do with either a longer fuel hose (when I was poor) or a dummy tank (riding mower tanks and the inline Briggs and Stratton style valves work great, mine hang from IV poles). That lets you manually try different (within reason) angles to see if it floods.

    Every Evo new to me gets fresh intake seals or preferably a Ram Jett solid intake (those stamped S are Sporty parts, only available used). Carbs not on solid intakes require carb braces lest they cause seal leakage. You can have more than one malfunction sometimes.

    What color are the spark plugs? Pics preferred.

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    agreed. air filter was on there when i bought it with the "new carb" and melted ignition.
    the shop put in new ones. I will get a pic when i get home though, i am also curious to see.
    the flange/gasket to the heads has had me question how it even holds on there.
    there's no carb brace. thought maybe its an S&S thing but...its still as heavy as the CV carb I'm sure.
    i have heard of the ram jet manifold. will that work with S&S super E?


    *I google ram jet manifold sportster*
    that could work if i can find one for sale. then use paper gaskets? since theres no rubber deal? i dont trust the janky rubber offset gaskets n wonky flanges
    Last edited by rabies; 1 Week Ago at 1:05 PM.

  12. #12
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    The stock floating intake manifold with the odd shaped o-rings works fine, and allows for the expansion of the parts at operating temperature. The only caveat is that the seals have about a six year lifespan. Timely replacement is part of maintenance.

    The RamJett manifold is only an improvement over the very early evo intake with the compliance fittings.

    That is just my 2c. Your results may vary,
    Jim

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    OTOH there is no maintenance on the solid intake and my 1988 FXR did over 100K miles with a Super B then an E hanging off it. Nothing to replace periodically and no carb brace to impede maintenance. It's slower to install hence the factory design but I'm not on an assembly line.

    Late seals aren't terrible but why tolerate any periodic replacement requirement plus the maintenance obstacle carb brace one must disconnect for future carb cleanings? One never leaks if done correctly which isn't difficult. I red Loctite the bolts as Loctite also acts as anti-seize.

    Pic shows a complete Drag Spec. kit for gasket reference. Post has full instructions. If you want VOES ya can drill the cast pad for a hose barb but many used intakes are already modded. Again only the S stamped (narrower flange distance) fits Sporties.

    https://www.chopcult.com/forum/showt...l=1#post825436

    Theres a NIB Sporty kit on Ebay but the price is double what I'd pay (I'm cheap). For 90 shipped it would be worth it to someone wanting it now but ~140 is high. Sportster Fecebook groups and maybe a WTB on xlforum may located one.

    Seals being cheap I'd swap 'em for now then hunt an intake at leisure. If the bike's a keeper there's plenty of time and they're easy to swap. Ride first, refine later.

    Carb braces are simple and if ya don't fab Gasbox make some tidy stainless parts (that are not simple but CNC cutting is Very Nice):

    https://thegasbox.com/products/s-amp...upport-bracket
    Last edited by farmall; 1 Week Ago at 3:45 PM.

  14. #14
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    * I am appreciative of your input gentlemen. *

    the plugs.
    left is front cyl. dry sooty. slightly wiped rim of rear cyl plug with my finger.


    the bowl puking slowed after i adjusted the float 1/4" lower. bowl is crooked in pic. but not when i tested it.


    onto the feed nozzle....bought a rebuild kit. turns out was a cheapy chinese kit.

    the hole is oblonged/oval. the needle seated but any bump or bubble it becomes unseated.

    here is the feed nozzle i spent $45 on. better oring and the hole is perfectly round.


    runs much better with bowl and nozzle fixed.
    cleaned plugs. still jerky at low speeds in any gear. like a goofy clutch jerky. (inherited some guys mess )
    battery is tested with good results.
    Last edited by rabies; 5 Days Ago at 7:33 AM.

  15. #15
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    You must adjust the float per S&S instructions if you want it to run right. Read the instructions.

    Jerky at low speed could be fat intermediate or timing too advanced. (XLs will run decent with the timing advanced beyond stock spec, but you risk detonation damage at large throttle openings (heavy motor load) so be careful.)

    Jim

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