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  1. #1

    Default Ironhead wiring fun

    Alright Iím on to wiring. I purchased a dyna s electronic ignition and coil ds6-1, along with an ďautomotive typeĒ key switch with the built in starter function when you turn the key. I have studied the wiring diagram in the book, the little diagram card that comes with the key as well as some random chopper wiring diagrams online and this is what I came up with
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    I doubt this is right because I am retarded. I am especially unsure what Iím doing when it comes to a starter relay, fuses and stuff. Any advice would be helpful thanks everyone

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  2. #2
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    You need at least a main breaker, usually 30 amp, if not also ignition and lighting breakers.

    Jim

  3. #3

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    Thanks Jim. Does it need a starter relay? Or is the ignition switch working as a starter relay?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooldean69 View Post
    Thanks Jim. Does it need a starter relay? Or is the ignition switch working as a starter relay?
    Those switches should be robust enough that the relay can be eliminated. Check with the vendor for their recommendation.

    Jim

  5. #5
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    run lights; head, tail and brake from just acc post on ignition switch- looks like you got two power wires going to lights from different ign switch posts.
    is the coil connected to the momentary post? needs to have direct power through switch.
    run a ground wire from frontend to frame so headlight is not grounded through the neck bearings.
    and a fuse, or breaker, for each circuit.

  6. #6

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    I ran a 30amp inline fuse from battery positive direct to the "B" on the key switch. I also ran my regulator output wire to the "aux" post of a 30amp breaker switch and ran a wire from the copper post to the battery positive.

  7. #7

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    “C” is the momentary switched power with key depressed, right now my diagram has nothing running to that. What needs to connect to C? Probably the starter and solenoid? I am still pretty in the dark but I’ll draw up another diagram
    Last edited by Cooldean69; 4 Weeks Ago at 7:26 PM.

  8. #8

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    This probably makes even less sense. Is there a major difference going between using a fuse vs. a circuit breaker?
    Last edited by Cooldean69; 4 Weeks Ago at 7:44 PM.

  9. #9
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    You need to find the wiring diagram for your bike and study it to see how the designers wired it. It seems like you are just flailing around at this point. Understand the stock wiring harness before you try to design your own.

    And to answer your question, the circuit breaker will reset when the overload is removed, so you don't have to carry a spare. And they withstand vibration better than fuses.

    Jim

  10. #10

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    Alright cool thank you

  11. #11
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    Ironhead, electric start:
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    basic wiring diagram:
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    I have seen this one used a few times:
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  12. #12

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    How did you get a copy of my diagram???? Stay out of my stuff

  13. #13

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    Just kidding dude thanks for the info. Still unsure about the momentary power “c” terminal?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooldean69 View Post
    Just kidding dude thanks for the info. Still unsure about the momentary power “c” terminal?
    That's a boat switch, and the C terminal is for an electric choke or enrichener. You will not use that terminal on your bike.

    Jim

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooldean69 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    This probably makes even less sense. Is there a major difference going between using a fuse vs. a circuit breaker?
    Generally the fuse responds quicker ( Yah I know there are specialty breakers that are quicker but you proly don't have one) but with the breaker you aren't on the side of the road digging for the spare fuse only to use the last one troubleshooting. I prefer the manual reset breakers every where except the headlight circuit. I find a flash of light ever now and then to be preferable to constant darkness on the way to the side of the road.
    Dusty

  16. #16
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    Blade style breakers are an option with manual and auto reset. Bussmann and Littelfuse make a variety. You can buy small blade fuse style blocks or use the rubber inline style (which may need trimming with a sharp blade to clear the blade-style breakers). I have no use for fuses anywhere they can be avoided.

  17. #17

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    I think I got it this time

    I have to make some kind of j box for the fuses
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    Last edited by Cooldean69; 3 Weeks Ago at 11:33 PM.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooldean69 View Post
    I think I got it this time

    I have to make some kind of j box for the fuses
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The coil lead needs to be connected to A, not B.

    The fuse in the solenoid lead is not particularly useful, and since the solenoid pulls several amps, that fuse would probably blow regularly.

    Jim

  19. #19

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    I see thanks Jim

  20. #20

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    Anyone know what gauge wire I should run to the coil? I have 12 running to it right now but it seems excessive, is 16 gauge too thin?

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