CHOP CULT HOME
Email Password
Search
Page 2 of 2 First 12
  1. #21
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    2,444

    Default

    You can use 16ga. on everything on an ironhead, because the runs are short and the generator output is relatively low.
    That said, you might want to run 14ga. From the battery to main breaker to ignition switch, and from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid, because that one circuit does draw some amps.

    Jim

  2. #22

    Default

    Well it’s all wired up now but either the starter or solenoid don’t work I’m not sure which. Light dims a little and there’s a faint noise coming from the starter/solenoid housing. I used a voltage meter and I don’t think the power is making it past the solenoid but I’m not sure. Now I gotta figure out if I can take out the solenoid and starter from the side of the case or if I gotta tear down the primary to access them?

  3. #23
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    2,444

    Default

    Depends on the year of your ironhead.

    Jim

  4. #24

    Default

    Alright I pulled the whole starter housing and did some bench tests. Starter spins so I think that’s good, I ran through the three solenoid tests and it pulled, held, and read voltage when plunger was depressed so that seemed good. But when I put the solenoid and starter back together in the housing I bench tested it together, and the solenoid was too weak to fully extend the bendex gear. Is this just a weak old solenoid? If I assist the lever a little it will engage so I don’t think anything is binding, it’s just not pulling hard enough or far enough

  5. #25

    Default

    It’s weird cuz when I bench tested the solenoid with a socket it pulled hard as hell

    It’s a brand new battery but maybe I should throw it on the trickle charger
    Last edited by Cooldean69; 3 Weeks Ago at 8:00 PM.

  6. #26

    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    259

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cooldean69 View Post
    Itís weird cuz when I bench tested the solenoid with a socket it pulled hard as hell

    Itís a brand new battery but maybe I should throw it on the trickle charger
    check your battery voltage under load. It may show correct voltage sitting there but once you crank the starter, if it doesnt hold juice its not going to fire that solenoid plunger out.

  7. #27

    Default

    The solenoid works when I remove the spring, the previous owner put a little metal cylinder inside of the spring that is not pictured in the manual, maybe he was attempting to fix this same issue.

    Either way, it binds when the spring is in I’m half tempted to just leave it out Click image for larger version. 

Name:	C099250E-8A25-428E-85B3-CED6880A9015.jpg 
Views:	1 
Size:	151.4 KB 
ID:	110466

    How important is this spring? I’m guessing it helps make the plunger seat fully but wtf

  8. #28

    Default

    It looks like the spring kicks the weight back out of the solenoid and disengages the bendex gear from the engine so that’s probably pretty important, I just can’t figure out why it’s binding. I’m wondering if the coils of the spring are too spread out and they are catching the edge of the weight. I’m going to compress the spring in a vice but really Idk what to do next, any ideas?

  9. #29
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    2,444

    Default

    Again, what year bike are you working on?

    Jim

  10. #30

    Default

    Whoops it’s a 1972, but I might have figured out what the problem could be, I think this pin might be on the wrong side of the shift lever hole, it’s hard to tell from the exploded views in the book Click image for larger version. 

Name:	F2D65C8D-BD0F-4E54-8141-53133FC6B371.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	72.0 KB 
ID:	110476

  11. #31

    Default

    How do you remove and install these pins

  12. #32
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    2,444

    Default

    You may be able to work that long pin back through the slot in the lever. You are right, it should be on the other side. The long pin is a press fit, just drift it out if necessary. The pin on the end in the cup should be a slip fit and is retained by the cup.

    And there is nothing wrong with your solenoid return spring in the previous post.

    Jim

  13. #33
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    2,444

    Default

    Not sure, but I think your lever is upside down.

    Jim

  14. #34

    Default

    I got the lever to the other side of the pin, put everything back together and put it in the bike. I turned it over and the starter went nuts, you can hear it hauling ass in there so I turned it off but the starter kept going! Pulled the key all the way out and starter was still flying. Disconnected negative on the battery and it finally cut out, what the hell did I do...

  15. #35

    Default

    I’m gonna stretch that spring out again and I’m going to get a new solenoid, this ones pretty fried. I’m wondering if a starter relay would help anything but Im thinking the problem is the solenoid switch plunger is not disengaging, might be the spring or maybe this ones just cooked

  16. #36
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    2,444

    Default

    That happens with any of those H-Ds with that solenoid. If there is no load, like spinning the motor over with the plugs out, the solenoid won't disengage and the starter will run on until the battery is disconnected. It has to do with the way the solenoid is designed to engage and disengage. You did nothing wrong but run the starter with no load on it.

    Jim

  17. #37

    Default

    Thanks Jim

    So you’re saying if the engine running, that solenoid will disengage?
    Last edited by Cooldean69; 3 Weeks Ago at 10:52 PM.

  18. #38

    Default

    I should probably start a new thread for this question but I noticed the center lobe thing on my timing plate is crooked, when the engine spins the little black thing in the middle wobbles like it’s not in straight, is this normal? Dynatek dyna s engition plate and coil Click image for larger version. 

Name:	CA62C2F7-BA01-4E4D-A397-5F1D2AB600E3.jpg 
Views:	2 
Size:	100.5 KB 
ID:	110480
    Not entirely sire I even installed this correctly but when I put a plug agains the head and crank the starter I get spark, but I can’t get this thing to run

  19. #39

    Default

    Itís also puking oil out of the cam cover bottom right by the oil pump I am resolved to tear this thing back down I just want to see it run first before I drain everything again damn motorcycles

  20. #40
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    2,444

    Default

    If the ignition rotor is running eccentric, you probably don't have the advance unit installed square on the end of the cam.

    Jim

Share This



Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Log in

Log in