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  1. #1

    Default Help with brakes

    I got my tires changed and put rear wheel on and the brake but the pads slipped out so I worked them back in there and put the brakes on the rotor and tested them.

    I could spin the wheel freely and hit the brake and they would stop the wheel with no drag but now with the bike in gear rolling at like 10 or 15 they dont seem to work very much, if at all, I'm sure I've done something wrong, as this was my first time messing with the brakes. I just dont know what.

    Now the Front brake. A while back I almost dumped the bike moving it around the garage on my MC jack and grabbed for the front brake to stop it from falling but I didnt have the wheel on so it locked up the pads.

    Fast forward to a few days ago, I pushed the pistons back in and spread the brake pads apart but never reapplied the brakes to pop the pistons back out. I then proceeded to put together a extended brake cable kit and put that on.

    Then the pads slipped out and I took all that apart and cleaned up everything with brake clean and put everything back together and I've been bleeding the brakes and getting fluid and air but no resistance in the lever at all, and no more bubbles at this point, do I need to keep bleeding or have I done something wrong with this caliper also?

    Should I have applied the brake first to pop the pistons back out or am I fine with what I did?

    I'm going by my service manual by the book but being my first time doing this I might have messed up a step along the way, I've bleed brakes before on my other bikes but never started with a new hose and air in the system so I may have not bleed them long enough yet but I'd appreciate the help if anyone could help me, thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Senior Member

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    Join Date
    Dec 2018


    I can't help you with your rear brake issue, but here's some advice on bleeding the front brakes:

    The master cylinder needs to be positioned so that the lever end is slightly higher than the line end. Usually, putting the bike on the sidestand and turning the wheel to the left will accomplish this, but if not, the handlebar may need to be repositioned to make it happen. Then, leaving the cover off, and the bleed screws closed, operate the lever gently, and look for air bubbles coming from the relief port in the master cylinder. As long as that is happening, you can bleed all the air out of the system through the master cylinder, but it takes a looong time. Guard against fluid spills on the fuel tank, front fender, etc. This has worked every time I have tried it, as long as there are no leaks in the system.


  3. #3


    Thanks JB, I figured it out it's a few things,. sometimes I get frustrated and in a rush to do something and I dont do it right the first time.

    I didnt tighten the brake line fittings all the way so they were letting air in and leaking, and I fixed that and let it set over night with the lever pulled in and it gained some pressure in the lever, Now I'm just working the rest of the air out if the system through the MC like you said to do.

    The rear looks like one of the pads are uneven. I probabky didnt get it recessed in the clip the right way and it popped out. I'll take the caliper back off and fix that.

    It's my first time doing anything with the brakes,besides bleeding them on my other bikes. I figured I'd mess something up but it's better to learn this way than pay someone else to do it.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    May 2015


    I have also found that cracking the bleeder technique doesnt some of the time. They tend to leak around the threads, defeating the cracking the bleeder technique.

    As mentioned earlier, pumping the brake lever works, but can take allot of time.

    I use a vacum bleeder. They are cheap, and for me, works EVERY time, even if you get a small leak around rhe threads of the bleeder screw to allow for bleeding. Saves a butt load of time

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