Lost the clutch on the '37 80" flathead

[JBinNC]

Use the shortest pushrod.

Your problem is limited travel because the new release bearing is larger than the old one. Make some room for it and you will be fine. As little as 1/8" extra travel may be enough to achieve proper function.

Jim

[Dragstews]

Wonder what kick cover you're using ... ??

75 and back Oem covers are a Plug & Play with the witch-hat bearing ..

If your kick cover is aftermarket, some trimming may be needed ..

[CDeeZ]

Pulled the kicker cover off. Looks like ya'll are right.

I see a new witness mark inside that wasn't there previously. That must be where the witchhat is hitting. Circled in red:



This reminded me..... When I had the kicker cover off my Panhead recently (which has a witchhat TOB), I noticed someone before me had ground down material around the fill plug area. Also they ground down the fill plug itself. I wondered why they had done that. Must be exactly what you guys are saying.


Someone before me clearanced the inside of the kick cover on my Panhead:


So, I will clearance the kicker cover on my flatty and it sounds like that will fix the issue.

[CDeeZ]

I have ground the inside of the kicker cover extensively and still have absolutely no tension on the clutch release arm.

Is that really the issue anyways? If the witchhat TOB wasn't sitting far enough down in the kicker cover, I wouldn't be able to fully and easily release the clutch as I show in that video above. Wouldn't you think????? With the release arm hanging out away from the bike, there's plenty of room to move it far enough to release the clutch. But with it running between the trans, oil tank etc. there's not enough room.

There is a lot of slop in my clutch release arm where the nut bolts it down. However, when the nut is tight, it doesn't move on the shaft whatsoever.

Also, I have tried the short pushrod, and the middle length one. Both seem like they would work in this trans, regardless of which one is correct. The longest pushrod is so long the kicker cover won't even bolt on.

[Dragstews]

What may be your problem is the clutch lever release finger not engaging fully into the cut-out slot of the witch-hat bearing ...

[CDeeZ]

On that note, I tried adding a washer on top of it to take up the slack there. It felt a little better. Almost tempted to weld a few washers together for a spacer to try. Or is that getting out of hand at that point?

[CDeeZ]

Don't know why, but I had to modify the finger. Seems to work ok now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7vVCPp_h3I

[Dragstews]

Don't know why.

Think I know why ....

Both clutch lever release fingers you have are for the washer bearings ....

Here's the release finger you need ...



VT PN 17-1499

Miss-matching parts from those two year groups of throw out bearings don't work well together ...

Also ....

On the mainshaft, it has a bushing pressed into the end of it for the use of the washer type bearing ..
It maintains holding the pushrod in center ..

The witch-hat bearing doesn't pull the center from the shaft ..
It keeps centered from the starter clutch gear ...

[CDeeZ]

Think I know why ....

Both clutch lever release fingers you have are for the washer bearings ....

Here's the release finger you need ...



VT PN 17-1499

Isn't this the exact opposite of what you said previously in another thread??

pn 17-1509 this was used on 1939-74 year models ..



This one ^^ works with the witch-hat bearing ..

It seen some mods when the flat bearing washer first came around in 75 ..



Dats ^^ for the 75-up bearing ..

[Dragstews]

Could be ..
Going off photos is hard to make a correct call..
In hand would be able to fit the parts together to see how they will work ..

But I do think from your video you have two release fingers made for the washer bearing ...

[CDeeZ]

pn 17-1509 this was used on 1939-74 year models ..



This one ^^ works with the witch-hat bearing ..

Oh well. I started to think that clutch finger might not be the right one. Bet I could leave it in there as is since I've modified it. It functions basically the same as the "correct" one now. I'll probably get the right clutch finger anyways.

[DustyDave]

I always go ahead and get what will make it right. I carried one of Cottens floats in a saddlebag for over 10 years incase the Gorilla Glue didn't hold. Finally put it in last year since it was spread all over the bench anyway. and the pivot was really sad.
Dusty

[CDeeZ]

Just had to grind it more. And boy did I have to grind the ever living shit out of EVERYTHING in there. Clutch finger, release bearing, kicker cover.... But it seems to work for now. We shall see soon.

Also, I ordered up the 17-1509. It is EXACTLY the same as the other two clutch fingers I have here which are supposedly for the later model "dime" style TOB........ Don't know WTF is up with that. Doesn't seem to matter though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9seWEop4xk