1982 Shovelhead Build

[Kcanela]

What’s up guys I just wanted to make a thread about my build and get some help from some gurus as this is my first build.

Starting platform 1982 FLT with some interesting upgrades. Bike came with an S&S bottom end, shorty E carb, S&S heads not sure what package the bike has but I’ll figure that out later. Previous owner got it started for me and that’s all I needed.


This thing came all jacked up, I didn’t care because my plan was to strip it down and throw it in a 76’ flh frame and hard tail it.


Taking the motor out


Chopping frame, I went with the Road 6 Customs hardtail kit I liked how the rear flowed.

[Kcanela]

Picked up this rotary top trans for a decent deal in todays market. I would prefer a ratchet top but the prices are crazy for them at the moment. I’ll grab one later on I just want to get this thing mostly together for now.

[Kcanela]

Not sure why my pictures are being posted turned, but my question is this port for the regulator has what kinda looks like a gasket? Or rtv? I tried searching for a new one can anyone let me know if a gasket is made for this or do I have to make my own?

[JBinNC]

It's just RTV. There is no gasket, the rubber plug is the seal. The terminals look pretty bad, so a new stator might be a good idea while you have the motor out.

Jim

[Kcanela]

Can someone give me their input on installing this open primary kit? Got the belt and sprockets from marketplace and I’m trying to install it on my clutch basket that came with my 5 speed. My clutch basket should work? I know I need to add the 4 speed clutch. But what order is this stuff going in? Also I forgot how the the pin on the tranny shaft was supposed to seat is the way I have it on correct or is it supposed to be flipped?

Here’s what I have from the disassembly that I’m trying to use to piece together on tranny.

[JBinNC]

The Woodruff key for your transmission mainshaft is installed with the flat side up, as in your picture. Tap it in gently so the top edge is parallel with the taper of the shaft.

Part #1, the clutch hub is installed first. If you are using the factory clutch hub bearing, it's best to install it on the clutch hub on the bench before installing the clutch hub on the transmission. Secure with part #4, the clutch hub nut. There is a lock plate that goes under the nut. The nut has a seal pressed in to seal around the clutch pushrod. You might want to renew it. The nut is a left hand thread and should be torqued to 90 - 120 ft.lb. (MY spec; not in any manual). DO NOT use a rattle gun on to tighten this nut.

Part #2 appears to be an extra inner primary bearing, and you already have one in your mainshaft support.

Once the clutch hub is installed and secured, install the motor pulley with enough shim behind it that the toothed edge of the pulley is not touching the alternator rotor. You should be able to get at least a
.003 feeler gauge between the edge of the pulley and the alternator rotor. Snug up the nut, just 20 or 30 ft.lb. while you are setting this up. Then put the clutch shell on the hub and check your belt alignment with a straightedge. You will need to have the transmission square on its plate and snugged down while you are doing this. You can add spacers behind the motor pulley if necessary, but you cannot move it inboard from the original position I described. If it needs to move inboard to align the belt, you will have to change something else. Maybe move the transmission out a little. Once you have the belt alignment set, remove the motor pulley and offer up the motor pulley, belt, and clutch shell as an assembly. Tighten the motor pulley nut (may be part of the #3 group, I really can't tell) to 150 - 165 ft.lb. and use a little red Loctite on the thread. Then put the clutch in and adjust everything and you are done.

Then you will have to see if the belt tracks properly when the motor is running, but that is for another day.

Jim

[Kcanela]

I had a feeling the clutch hub was supposed to go on first but it seems as if it has to be pressed on the shaft, I just wanted to make sure before I put it on that I wouldn’t have to take it apart again until I dissemble to get the frame painted

[Kcanela]

Been a while since I’ve updated this thing, got carried away with my drift build finally got enough parts to gather this thing up. was able to make my first exhaust, would’ve preferred some upsweeps but I was limited to what ever I had laying around.

[Kcanela]

knew I wanted some Frisco style mid controls but I couldn’t justify Frisco prices so I got these made for me for a good price and got the jockey shifter mocked up, next is figuring out how to get it all to engage properly ��

[Kcanela]

got my rear caliper mounted up, excited to feel these things in action.

[Kcanela]

finally got everything put together and was able to start the bike a couple of times but I know for a fact my timing is off. I’ve searched countless of videos and posts about setting the points ignition. I’m stumped, I’ve gapped my points at 0.018 and even 0.020 on the skiing larger lobe, set the front cylinder rear pushrod to bottom out and centered my advanced TDC vertical line where my issue is that when I go to use my test light to adjust them to where it just wants to light up it won’t light up.. it will do it sometimes (I’ve tried timing this thing over 10 times already) I don’t understand what I’m doing wrong. It’s really making me want to just shell out on rawhyde electronic ignition but I don’t want to give up. Here’s what I have 5.0 ohm dyna coil, checked that I’m getting spark, reset my super e carb to factory specs, brand new points ignition, fully charged battery, yes there’s fuel in tank and carb is getting it. What am I missing? Really want to get it running mint so I can send my tins off to paint

[JBinNC]

On an '82, the advance timing mark is a dot. The line is the TDC mark. (If the flywheels are original.)

Jim

[JBinNC]

Also, you gotta twist the point cam against the advance weight springs to its stop to set the advance timing.

Jim

[Kcanela]

There’s only one good clear video on YouTube on how to time the motor and he has an 83’ and he was able to time it with the vertical line? Is it still different he had an fxsb and mine was an flt?

[JBinNC]

He's timing the retarded or starting timing. You can do that to get it started, but follow up by adjusting the advance timing with a strobe timing light. That's all in the manual. (You will need a manual for a '78 or earlier cone motor to get the factory instructions for a point and coil ignition.) You do have a factory service manual, don't you?

If you want to do the retarded timing setting as a first step, best to position the line at the rear of the timing hole.

Good luck with it,
Jim

[Kcanela]

I’m stumped, tried setting the points like 20 times still can’t get the bike to fire after like 20 kicks.. now my breather from my oil pump is leaking oil out of it?

[JBinNC]

If you are interested, I can walk you through all the steps to handle the ignition on this thing, but it's a lot of typing (on a little phone screen in my case). So, you need to be willing to do it, and that means ALL the steps. If you are interested, I'll have some time this evening to devote to it.

Jim

[rockman96]

I can't look at sideways pics. Looking good tho...

[drivermark]

Jim has a write up for timing cone shovels and iron heads if you haven't seen it, it is here:

https://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55778
Hope this helps and maybe saves Jim some typing on his phone.

I used these instructions when I converted my early evo to a points ignition so the kick start would work.

[JBinNC]

Jim has a write up for timing cone shovels and iron heads if you haven't seen it, it is here:

https://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55778
Hope this helps and maybe saves Jim some typing on his phone.

I used these instructions when I converted my early evo to a points ignition so the kick start would work.

Thanks for the link. Yeah, that should save me some typing.

Jim