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  1. #21

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    Thanks man, I don’t know if it’s because I’m uploading through my phone but it wants to switch the pics to sideways and it’s annoying

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by drivermark View Post
    Jim has a write up for timing cone shovels and iron heads if you haven't seen it, it is here:

    https://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55778
    Hope this helps and maybe saves Jim some typing on his phone.

    I used these instructions when I converted my early evo to a points ignition so the kick start would work.
    I will look into this after work, on the flip side I already have rawhides new electronic ignition on the way should be here in a day or two Just in case these points give me no luck. @JBinNC I appreciate you replying

  3. #23

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    So Where I’m kind of lost is after I have everything lined up for TDC and I move back to the points, am I turning the points plate counterclockwise all the way and THEN trying to turn the cam lobe counter clockwise aswell?? This is how I have been trying to time the motor. Points on skinny love set to 0.018, take pushrod cover out crank motor to where pushrod goes up and then comes back down. I would then go to the timing whole and crank until I saw vertical line in the window or dot because I tried both ways. Then I think my issue is at the points.. I would counter clockwise the plate and try to see that my test light would turn on when I rotated the plate clockwise but I never got the lives to open the points and would be left with no lights so I think my issue would be that I’m not physically turning the cam lobe to see the test light turn on? It’s just weird only a few posts mention that and everyone else is able to just have the plate turned counter clockwise and then they just turn them clockwise to get their test light to light up and they’re done. Not sure that it makes a difference but when I do get the points plate to turn my test light on the points spark a bit (I think that’s supposed to happen?) just no one ever said that in any posts or videos.

    I’m starting to think something had to be messed with when this motor was put together being that it’s not bone stock. Anyways I have a new 5.0 ignition coil and rawhides electronic ignition on the way in a couple days so after that the bike will have completely new electronics.

  4. #24
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    Since you are setting the advance timing, you must turn the point cam to its limit, to replicate the advance weights turning it as the motor revs up.

    If your points are sparking noticeably when they open, you may have a bad condenser. And a bad condenser will make starting extremely difficult. If you even suspect it, replace it. It's hard to find good condensers these days. I've had the best luck with the Blue Streak condensers.

    Jim

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    Since you are setting the advance timing, you must turn the point cam to its limit, to replicate the advance weights turning it as the motor revs up.

    If your points are sparking noticeably when they open, you may have a bad condenser. And a bad condenser will make starting extremely difficult. If you even suspect it, replace it. It's hard to find good condensers these days. I've had the best luck with the Blue Streak condensers.

    Jim
    The condenser is new, but it’s not the first time I’ve heard of people having bad ones from new. Apparently the convenience of points is to be able to buy parts anywhere so would you happen to know where I can get a new one?

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kcanela View Post
    The condenser is new, but it’s not the first time I’ve heard of people having bad ones from new. Apparently the convenience of points is to be able to buy parts anywhere so would you happen to know where I can get a new one?
    NAPA, Advance, Auto Zone, O'Reilly, whatever auto parts retailer that might still exist in your area. Cone H-D points & condenser are the same as early '70s six cylinder Chevy.

    Jim

  7. #27
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    "Apparently the convenience of points is to be able to buy parts anywhere"

    That and the stock electronic ignitions are programmed to have 3 dead revolutions before they fire the spark plugs which makes the kicker useless, that is the reason I changed mine to points.
    There are programmable ei's that you can use but points ignitions are dirt cheap compared to them and they (points) worked for decades on multiple platforms so that's what I went with.
    They are not set it and forget it like the electronics but the maintenance is really minimal.

    just my 2cents

  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    NAPA, Advance, Auto Zone, O'Reilly, whatever auto parts retailer that might still exist in your area. Cone H-D points & condenser are the same as early '70s six cylinder Chevy.

    Jim
    Sweet, I’ll test it out later and see what happens

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivermark View Post
    "Apparently the convenience of points is to be able to buy parts anywhere"

    That and the stock electronic ignitions are programmed to have 3 dead revolutions before they fire the spark plugs which makes the kicker useless, that is the reason I changed mine to points.
    There are programmable ei's that you can use but points ignitions are dirt cheap compared to them and they (points) worked for decades on multiple platforms so that's what I went with.
    They are not set it and forget it like the electronics but the maintenance is really minimal.

    just my 2cents
    My go-to ignition for kicker bikes is the Dyna S. It uses the stock mechanical advance unit, and the stock 5 ohm coil that points use. Best of all, it will fire the plugs right down to zero rpm, and even points won't do that. Plus, you don't have to mess with the hit-or-miss modern condensers. All you have to do is service the advance unit annually.

    Jim

  10. #30
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    Thanks Jim, I'll keep that in mind for future reference.
    I did find this on condensers while surfing the net a while back it might be helpful for some
    http://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/cap_failure/
    The article seems more car oriented but there is some useful info.

  11. #31

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    I would have gone dyna s but I came across a couple dudes that have installed the new rawhides electronic ignition and rawhide states “the Dyna S ignition has some inherent flaws. One main oversight is that
    their rotor is too light (less than the stock
    rotor). This means it does not advance
    properly. Also that rotor is made of plastic
    and wears out in the middle into a big oval
    shape. Another flaw is that it is drawing
    much more current than needed. This is why
    their pickups burn out. Also, I can not
    determine where Dyna's components are
    made.” so I figured I’d give something new a try.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kcanela View Post
    I would have gone dyna s but I came across a couple dudes that have installed the new rawhides electronic ignition and rawhide states “the Dyna S ignition has some inherent flaws. One main oversight is that
    their rotor is too light (less than the stock
    rotor). This means it does not advance
    properly. Also that rotor is made of plastic
    and wears out in the middle into a big oval
    shape. Another flaw is that it is drawing
    much more current than needed. This is why
    their pickups burn out. Also, I can not
    determine where Dyna's components are
    made.” so I figured I’d give something new a try.
    Some truth here, mostly bullshit.

    Rotor too light? The advance weights do the advancing, not the rotor.

    Plastic rotor wears out? That one is a maybe, and so far I have personally seen no evidence of this.

    Draws too much current? Preposterous. Enough said.

    You may come to find you would be better off with a Dyna S, but only time will tell.

    Jim

  13. #33
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    The Dyna S just works. I'm with JB on this one, they are a solid ignition. I have been running them for going on 30 years and have never seen a rotor wear out.

    If they are drawing too much current then you are running the wrong coil(s).

  14. #34

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    Ok so I got my parts a day early… bad news still nothing.. even with the electronic ignition nothing wants to trigger my test light. I found out I wired my 3 position key switch wrong aswell so I rearranged the wires for the right key positions and still nothing which is unfortunate I was hoping that would’ve been my issue all along. So when testing with test light is the key position supposed to be on accessory or ignition position? I’ve tried both ways seems I can’t get anything I’m starting to think something is off with the flywheel.. can I just time it off the height of the actual front cylinder and not worry about dots or vertical timing marks since my year can be the either or for TDC or advanced TDC?? At this point I’m ready to just send this thing off to a shop.. it’s practically all done just need this damn timing set up..

  15. #35

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    So after a 3rd ignition it finally worked as everyone described turns out my key switch was wired wrong and ended up frying my first electronic system and most likely the points system picked up a used dyna s, timed it and fired right up she’s a first kicker!Click image for larger version. 

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    Time for paint!

  16. #36
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    All right! Perseverance leads to success!

    Happy for you. And thanks for the feedback.

    Jim

  17. #37
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    Looking good!

  18. #38

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    First time doing any striping and flames on top of that, few hours of work and got something decent to cruise around in.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #39

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    First version done for now, now I can touch up things as I go and get some cooler parts as they pop up but Iím content!
    Click image for larger version. 

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