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Thread: 1982 Shovelhead Build
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06-28-2022 #21
Thanks man, I don’t know if it’s because I’m uploading through my phone but it wants to switch the pics to sideways and it’s annoying
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06-28-2022 #22Jim has a write up for timing cone shovels and iron heads if you haven't seen it, it is here:
https://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55778
Hope this helps and maybe saves Jim some typing on his phone.
I used these instructions when I converted my early evo to a points ignition so the kick start would work.
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06-28-2022 #23
So Where I’m kind of lost is after I have everything lined up for TDC and I move back to the points, am I turning the points plate counterclockwise all the way and THEN trying to turn the cam lobe counter clockwise aswell?? This is how I have been trying to time the motor. Points on skinny love set to 0.018, take pushrod cover out crank motor to where pushrod goes up and then comes back down. I would then go to the timing whole and crank until I saw vertical line in the window or dot because I tried both ways. Then I think my issue is at the points.. I would counter clockwise the plate and try to see that my test light would turn on when I rotated the plate clockwise but I never got the lives to open the points and would be left with no lights so I think my issue would be that I’m not physically turning the cam lobe to see the test light turn on? It’s just weird only a few posts mention that and everyone else is able to just have the plate turned counter clockwise and then they just turn them clockwise to get their test light to light up and they’re done. Not sure that it makes a difference but when I do get the points plate to turn my test light on the points spark a bit (I think that’s supposed to happen?) just no one ever said that in any posts or videos.
I’m starting to think something had to be messed with when this motor was put together being that it’s not bone stock. Anyways I have a new 5.0 ignition coil and rawhides electronic ignition on the way in a couple days so after that the bike will have completely new electronics.
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06-28-2022 #24
Since you are setting the advance timing, you must turn the point cam to its limit, to replicate the advance weights turning it as the motor revs up.
If your points are sparking noticeably when they open, you may have a bad condenser. And a bad condenser will make starting extremely difficult. If you even suspect it, replace it. It's hard to find good condensers these days. I've had the best luck with the Blue Streak condensers.
Jim
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06-28-2022 #25Since you are setting the advance timing, you must turn the point cam to its limit, to replicate the advance weights turning it as the motor revs up.
If your points are sparking noticeably when they open, you may have a bad condenser. And a bad condenser will make starting extremely difficult. If you even suspect it, replace it. It's hard to find good condensers these days. I've had the best luck with the Blue Streak condensers.
Jim
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06-28-2022 #26Senior Member
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Jim
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06-28-2022 #27Senior Member
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"Apparently the convenience of points is to be able to buy parts anywhere"
That and the stock electronic ignitions are programmed to have 3 dead revolutions before they fire the spark plugs which makes the kicker useless, that is the reason I changed mine to points.
There are programmable ei's that you can use but points ignitions are dirt cheap compared to them and they (points) worked for decades on multiple platforms so that's what I went with.
They are not set it and forget it like the electronics but the maintenance is really minimal.
just my 2cents
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06-28-2022 #28
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06-28-2022 #29Senior Member
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"Apparently the convenience of points is to be able to buy parts anywhere"
That and the stock electronic ignitions are programmed to have 3 dead revolutions before they fire the spark plugs which makes the kicker useless, that is the reason I changed mine to points.
There are programmable ei's that you can use but points ignitions are dirt cheap compared to them and they (points) worked for decades on multiple platforms so that's what I went with.
They are not set it and forget it like the electronics but the maintenance is really minimal.
just my 2cents
Jim
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06-28-2022 #30Senior Member
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Thanks Jim, I'll keep that in mind for future reference.
I did find this on condensers while surfing the net a while back it might be helpful for some
http://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/cap_failure/
The article seems more car oriented but there is some useful info.
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06-28-2022 #31
I would have gone dyna s but I came across a couple dudes that have installed the new rawhides electronic ignition and rawhide states “the Dyna S ignition has some inherent flaws. One main oversight is that
their rotor is too light (less than the stock
rotor). This means it does not advance
properly. Also that rotor is made of plastic
and wears out in the middle into a big oval
shape. Another flaw is that it is drawing
much more current than needed. This is why
their pickups burn out. Also, I can not
determine where Dyna's components are
made.” so I figured I’d give something new a try.
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06-29-2022 #32Senior Member
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I would have gone dyna s but I came across a couple dudes that have installed the new rawhides electronic ignition and rawhide states “the Dyna S ignition has some inherent flaws. One main oversight is that
their rotor is too light (less than the stock
rotor). This means it does not advance
properly. Also that rotor is made of plastic
and wears out in the middle into a big oval
shape. Another flaw is that it is drawing
much more current than needed. This is why
their pickups burn out. Also, I can not
determine where Dyna's components are
made.” so I figured I’d give something new a try.
Rotor too light? The advance weights do the advancing, not the rotor.
Plastic rotor wears out? That one is a maybe, and so far I have personally seen no evidence of this.
Draws too much current? Preposterous. Enough said.
You may come to find you would be better off with a Dyna S, but only time will tell.
Jim
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06-29-2022 #33Senior Member
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The Dyna S just works. I'm with JB on this one, they are a solid ignition. I have been running them for going on 30 years and have never seen a rotor wear out.
If they are drawing too much current then you are running the wrong coil(s).
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06-29-2022 #34
Ok so I got my parts a day early… bad news still nothing.. even with the electronic ignition nothing wants to trigger my test light. I found out I wired my 3 position key switch wrong aswell so I rearranged the wires for the right key positions and still nothing which is unfortunate I was hoping that would’ve been my issue all along. So when testing with test light is the key position supposed to be on accessory or ignition position? I’ve tried both ways seems I can’t get anything I’m starting to think something is off with the flywheel.. can I just time it off the height of the actual front cylinder and not worry about dots or vertical timing marks since my year can be the either or for TDC or advanced TDC?? At this point I’m ready to just send this thing off to a shop.. it’s practically all done just need this damn timing set up..
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07-04-2022 #35
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07-04-2022 #36Senior Member
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All right! Perseverance leads to success!
Happy for you. And thanks for the feedback.
Jim
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07-05-2022 #37Senior Member
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Looking good!
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07-07-2022 #38
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07-07-2022 #39
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09-27-2022 #40
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