1960 Panhead / won´t start / Magneto / Linkert

[DustyBoyer]

Hello everyone,

hope you re all great !

i know there are already threats about that problem but mine is a bit different so i thought i gonna post it anyway.

Keyfacts:
1960 FLH Panhead
engine is fully rebuild never ran
Oil 20W 50

no oilfilter
no airfilter

Linkert M74B
Linkert is adjusted as in the manual online
LowSpeed 4 1/2 turns
Highspeed needle 2 full turns

Magneto Morris MM74E
Suicide Clutch
New Champion Sparkplugs
no kill switch
no lights or similar installed yet
temperature right now approx 50

Problem:

-checked for spark on both sparkplugs clear and visible spark
- priming linkert carburator 3 Kicks with throttle wide open



- kicking the bike after priming the carb and it does the following things

1. spits gas out of the carb
2. puffs smoke out of the carb
3. engine wants to start but never made it more than both cylinders run once
so puffs quickly out of the exhaust twice so it feels like shes about to start than dies

got the engine running twice but died immediatly after

tried both choke & throttle open & choke & throttle closed

tried starting spray didn't help

got new sparkplugs autolite cause they were recommended didn't change

got new spark plug wire especially for magneto didn't change


any help or advice would be highly appreciated.

cheers

[JBinNC]

Numbers 1 and 2 on your list suggest that the timing is too far advanced for starting. Retard the timing to about 10° BTDC for kick starting.

Cold motor, and moderately cold air, the motor probably won't idle unless the choke is one or two clicks closed.

Solid or hydraulic tappets, and how are they adjusted?

Fuel system supplying a steady flow of fuel to the carb?

Carb float link properly adjusted around the needle (~ .003 clearance)? Float level correct? Float condition good?

Intake manifold sealed up good? No vacuum leaks?

That's all I've got.
Jim

[DustyBoyer]

first of all hey jim!! thanks so much for your quick reply

will try to retard timing its fully advance right now and choke too clicks !



Solid or hydraulic tappets, and how are they adjusted?
not 100 percent sure !

Fuel Line looks good took the carb appart changed spring for main yet and main gasket

tried the float link in tryin to blow air through while closed and it closed great

float level is set to 1/4 inch as in the users manual ???

i need to intake manifold for leaks but its brandnew build

[shovel625]

Numbers 1 and 2 on your list suggest that the timing is too far advanced for starting. Retard the timing to about 10° BTDC for kick starting.

Cold motor, and moderately cold air, the motor probably won't idle unless the choke is one or two clicks closed.

Solid or hydraulic tappets, and how are they adjusted?

Fuel system supplying a steady flow of fuel to the carb?

Carb float link properly adjusted around the needle (~ .003 clearance)? Float level correct? Float condition good?

Intake manifold sealed up good? No vacuum leaks?

That's all I've got.
Jim

Numbers 1 and 2 on your list suggest that the timing is too far advanced for starting. Retard the timing to about 10° BTDC for kick starting.

- i second what JBinNC said, also make sure your not 180 degrees out of timing.

- check your pushrod adjustment, too tight means your valves wont open properly

[DustyBoyer]

second what JBinNC said, also make sure your not 180 degrees out of timing.

checked magneto and as in the video for installation form morris the slim part touches when the rear cyclinder is up and ready to go down. so i guess the timing should be right then ?


adjusted pushrods today they spin free / no up and down movement !

still the same sympthoms


putting the magneto 10 degrees of advance
prime kicks 3 times
kicking it engine runs once on every cylinder and nothing more happens

or

kicks back

or

puffs out of the carb

[JBinNC]

second what JBinNC said, also make sure your not 180 degrees out of timing.

checked magneto and as in the video for installation form morris the slim part touches when the rear cyclinder is up and ready to go down. so i guess the timing should be right then ?


adjusted pushrods today they spin free / no up and down movement !

still the same sympthoms


putting the magneto 10 degrees of advance
prime kicks 3 times
kicking it engine runs once on every cylinder and nothing more happens

or

kicks back

or

puffs out of the carb

How did you set your 10° of advance?

Jim

[shovel625]

second what JBinNC said, also make sure your not 180 degrees out of timing.

checked magneto and as in the video for installation form morris the slim part touches when the rear cyclinder is up and ready to go down. so i guess the timing should be right then ?


adjusted pushrods today they spin free / no up and down movement !

still the same sympthoms


putting the magneto 10 degrees of advance
prime kicks 3 times
kicking it engine runs once on every cylinder and nothing more happens

or

kicks back

or

puffs out of the carb

That doesnt mean its timed right. Did you check your timing marks on the flywheels at all? Points gap? plug gap? can you post a video?

[DustyBoyer]

hey guys,

thank you SO much for your help got that thing started

problems were actually just the sparkplugs and a little adjustment at the magneto.

so throw them champions away and get autolite if you r runnin a mag

engine misfires but that s just dial in i guess

[DustyDave]

hey guys,

thank you SO much for your help got that thing started

problems were actually just the sparkplugs and a little adjustment at the magneto.

so throw them champions away and get autolite if you r runnin a mag

engine misfires but that s just dial in i guess

Anymore no matter what the catalog or anybody says or what the last set was I read every new plug with an ohm meter, if they are going in a mag or 6 volt bike. I pulled the plug out of an Indian four that was acting really erratic and 2 were resistor, all the same number.
Dusty