Need oil filter help

[oldskool2949]

I bought a nos finned oil filter for my shovel. It has a filter in it, but no part numbers. I’ve messaged wix with the measurements and have talked to the local parts store. I’m struggling to find a filter to fit this oil filter. Does anyone know who made this filter, or have a application or part number for the filter. Thanks

[docmel]

Many aftermarket type MC oil filters, as you prob figured, typically use off the shelf auto filters... But be careful. Most auto filters have what is called an anti drain back valve that takes about 20 or more PSI to open, a bad thing for our HDs........... But your pic shows a dif sort of filter, most likely, a tractor based filter IMHO

Try your local NAPA car parts place, if you have one. Those guys have a super reference base on hard copy and they have found parts for me that no one else could I am also sure someone on this forum has a filter like yours

[10scDust]

Many aftermarket type MC oil filters, as you prob figured, typically use off the shelf auto filters... But be careful. Most auto filters have what is called an anti drain back valve that takes about 20 or more PSI to open, a bad thing for our HDs...........

Pardon, I do not understand while this is bad for an HD, I find this:
"For spin-on filters, the anti-drain back valve is a rubber-like membrane on the inner side of the can behind the mounting plate cover. The membrane covers the holes where the oil gets through to the filter media and protects against the backflow after the engine is turned off."

I've ran automotive type oil filters for over 10 years and no problems yet on my Evos.

[10scDust]

I bought a nos finned oil filter for my shovel. It has a filter in it, but no part numbers. I’ve messaged wix with the measurements and have talked to the local parts store. I’m struggling to find a filter to fit this oil filter. Does anyone know who made this filter, or have a application or part number for the filter. Thanks

The second picture of the element itself, looks a lot like the replacement for the old Shovelhead element that went into a canister holder, then under the cap of the oil tank.

Look to Dennis Kirk for them like 1975 FLH type oil filter. Might be the same. What bike is yours off of?

[JBinNC]

The second picture of the element itself, looks a lot like the replacement for the old Shovelhead element that went into a canister holder, then under the cap of the oil tank.

Look to Dennis Kirk for them like 1975 FLH type oil filter. Might be the same. What bike is yours off of?

^ This ^

The filter canister in the pics was designed to use the PerForm drop-in oil filter for '60s and '70s H-D. I don't remember if the canister was a PerForm product or not. Nevertheless, several companies make drop-in filters for the H-D oil tank so you should have no problem finding one. The filter has a conical spring in the top to hold it in position in the oil tank. Whether that spring is used in the canister I do not know.

Jim

[oldskool2949]

Thanks! Just the info I was looking for.

[docmel]

Pardon, I do not understand while this is bad for an HD, I find this:
"For spin-on filters, the anti-drain back valve is a rubber-like membrane on the inner side of the can behind the mounting plate cover. The membrane covers the holes where the oil gets through to the filter media and protects against the backflow after the engine is turned off."

I've ran automotive type oil filters for over 10 years and no problems yet on my Evos.

I have run them on evos as well, but frankly, the ones you are using don't have a drain back valve: If it did, you would immediately start puking oil as the low psi on our oil pumps wont open a anti drain back valve

I never said ALL auto filters have an anti drain back valve, but most do (the valve is to help reduce possible dry starts)

[confab]

There's a drainback valve in some filters. I always thought it was little more than a silicone flapper.

I really think what we're talking about with the PSI rating is the bypass valve. Which some filters contain also.

My (humble) understanding of this, based on a couple of cutaways I have seen, is basically a spring type arrangement that allows the filter media to shift and permit oil to flow past if the filter plugs up.

Our machines will likely never make enough psi to open one. Or, if they do, it will be on the extremes and you'll be starving your engine on and off.. So you probably want to change the filter frequently and/or run a gauge.

[confab]

PS: Some filters may not contain this, as I know for a fact that many engines contain a bypass function in the oiling system itself and have for years..

So, having such a thing on the filter would be redundant. But, they might do it anyway in some instances?

Who knows?

So, if you wanna know? Look the specs for your particular filter.

Do Harley filters have a special, low pressure, bypass? I have no idea. But I have a new WIX filter downstairs and I'll try to find the specifications for it later and see.

[confab]

PPS:

Since OP mentions it, there may be something going on here.. I run a gauge and was getting the "Drag Specialties" filters from my local indy. He's going out of business, so I ordered a Wix part from the auto store (For a Harley, chromed and everything. Claims to be the correct replacement on their crossover chart and Wix is a good brand.) and the oil pressure behaves very differently hot..

The only change is the filter?

Before, it would drop really low hot.. Almost to zero.. And spike when I revved it.

With the Wix filter, hot base PSI is better. But when I rev it, PSI stops climbing much earlier.

I thought it was weird, but the pressure was okay in either instance.. So, I didn't worry much about it.


But now that I think about it, one thing that would explain this behavior is a bypass valve opening..

????

[JBinNC]

For the ironheads, shovels, and evo big twins, the filter is on the return side, and must be a low restriction media. For those models, the filters have a 20 micron rating. By comparison, the filters for the twinkies, which filter the oil on the pressure side, the filter media has a 10 micron rating. That is the main issue when trying to use an automotive filter in a H-D system.

Jim

[confab]

the ironheads, shovels, and evo big twins, the filter is on the return side

Whoooo.... That's right.

So, if your filter plugs up and has no bypass... I dunno what happens?

It overheats and then floods your engine with oil it can't exhaust? It breaks the keys in your pump? Blows a line off?

I dunno? Whatever happens, it can't be good.

Apparently mine DOES have a bypass.. (Which sounds like a fabulous idea, considering.) The setting for the bypass seems appropriate for a Shovelhead engine.

As you say, it IS a 20 Micron.

Someone may find this useful:

Part Number: 57013
UPC Number: 765809570139
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Cellulose
Height: 2.5(64)*
Outer Diameter Top: 3.01(76)*
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed:
Thread Size: 16X1.5 MM
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 7-9
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Nominal Micron Rating: 20

[TriNortchopz]

"...Though the 10 micron filter may have a higher filtration rating it does not allow the oil to return to the tank as fast.

With this in mind, the 10 micron filter was developed for use with the Twin Cam style engine, which has a different oiling system that allows oil to be forced through a more restrictive oil filter. The reason for the tighter filtration was explained by the manufacture as necessary to assure all of the smaller passages, in the Twin Cam style engine, would stay clear of debris.

If you run the 10 micron filter with an evolution style engine it will not be able to return oil through the filter fast enough causing the oil to back up into the lower end robbing power and/or causing oil to puke out of the lower end. The 30 micron filter is designed to work best for your Evolution style engine, the filtration is still excellent and it will not cause oiling issues.

When it comes to filtering oil, application is very important. There have been a lot of changes and updates in the market with too many filter brands claiming a better filtration. Don’t be fooled into using a filter that might not be the best for your bike.” S&S Cycle.

http://cyrilhuzeblog.com/2016/09/15/...r-by-ss-cycle/

[docmel]

The reason I first responded to the OP is because with one remote mount oil filter I had in the past in about 3 seconds after start, blew oil practically everywhere Thats when I researched and found out about the valve and the difs between various filters My point being just because it may fit, doesn't mean the internals are the same, such as porosity/flow of the filter and valves/diaphragms