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Thread: Hunt mag

  1. #1

    Default Hunt mag

    I just installed a hunt mag on my 52 pan. Had to sand down a ton of material from the relay mount. I had to take a little off the bottom of the mag body too because it was rubbing on the generator. There's just a C-hair clearance now.

    Right now I'm unable to install the mag on its post with the distributor cap on the mag. Since it's impossible to install the one cap screw while the mags on the bike I take it that enough material has to be removed from the cylinder fins so that the mag can be installed with the cap already screwed on

    Someone's already pushed up one of the cylinder head fins for a little clearance

    Am I right thinking that I've gotta grind down those cylinder fins and install with the cap on? Anyone have some input for me?

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    You already butchered the case why not butcher the cylinders also?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by pan620 View Post
    You already butchered the case why not butcher the cylinders also?
    I agree........ Or pull the cylinder like should be done.............

  4. #4
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    Oh yea why not post a pic of what your dealing with.............

  5. #5
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    .... PITA ....

    Tis the reason I really like Morris's Impulse Mags ...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    No mods requires for installation ... Plug & Play ..
    Last edited by Dragstews; 01-03-2022 at 9:29 AM.

  6. #6

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    So I went out today and touched up a small spot. Now I can remove the mag with the cap on.
    Still a small spot where it rubs so I'm thinking I've got take a little more off that spot.

    Motors not matching and I'm pretty sure alot of its new parts. The relay mount was already scratched off. I do intend on cleaning up my work once it comes back out the frame so don't judge me to hard yet.

    So far do things look in order for getting this mag to work?
    Kind of sucks that if you want to check timing you've gotta pull off the whole mag to get the cap off and then re-install it to check the points.
    I just tried timing it yesterday to see what it was like. Used a piece of paper to check that the points would open as the timing mark passed the center of the hole. Any advice on this?


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  7. #7

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    That's the whole mag.. sorry about the pictures it's a pain doing this off my phone

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dylan529 View Post
    Kind of sucks that if you want to check timing you've gotta pull off the whole mag to get the cap off and then re-install it to check the points.

    Not necessary when using the KATT ...


    I just tried timing it yesterday to see what it was like. Used a piece of paper to check that the points would open as the timing mark passed the center of the hole. Any advice on this ?
    KATT - Timing & Testing Tool..

    Considered a must-have item, easy to use tool to set your timing accurately. Also useful to test your magneto for 'ready to run' by simply connecting the tool any time, then turn the motor. Well constructed from aluminum, and long battery life. You'll love it!

    Made to exclusive Morris Magneto specs, this solid state unit detects induction, not "buzz box" continuity. Can be used for for testing other things, like starter relays or standard battery-coil ignition timing (with the power disconnected!).


    __________________________________________

    Ya could make life a little easier to live for yourself ...

    Being you have what's call a fixed Mag (No Retard) this bolt-on gizmo would make starting a whole lot easier ...



    The MRA is a revolutionary new device which aids starting by retarding the timing on fixed-position magnetos, helping to turn the infamous kick-backs and spit-backs into starts.
    EZ Install. When the cap-mounted lever is flipped, the points 'shift' 10 degrees, retarding your timing 20 degrees for starting. The lever is then locked in the advanced position by a rare-earth magnet.

    You'll love it! The complete kit consists of a new cap and neoprene gasket, a set of points, condenser, and the actuating pieces themselves. MRA-R is for normal rotation, such as H-D XLCH's (clockwise viewing points cam), see MRA-G for the few models using reverse rotation, such as – G5, YXS, Dual Mag Rear, Horizontal Nose Cone hunt. Fits Morris and all older style (cast type) magnetos.

    NOTE: Fits all Morris Housings, H-D, and all cast Fairbanks-Morse.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Be alot less of this action ^^ ...
    Last edited by Dragstews; 01-04-2022 at 3:13 AM.

  9. #9

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    i like that clear cap, being able to see whats happening in there.
    whats the difference between using that morris kit and manually turning the mag by hand ?

  10. #10
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    A fixed Mag is locked down at full advance ... There are no stops that would allow you to return to a full advance position ..
    There is a Mag that does have stops ..


  11. #11

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    i think i understand what your saying. If i were to try and manually retard it and then move it back to a full advance, ill never be able to return it to where i started. so now its a fight figuring out where the things gotta be to run and start. That morris cap makes better sense now. thanks.
    I think it will go on the wishlist, for now ill stretch that right leg

  12. #12
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    Yup .... You got it ..

  13. #13

    Join Date
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    I made a polished aluminum clamp that mounted on the right downtube. I would move the mag a bit to retard it for starting, then move the mag against the clamp to establish total advance. Worked great.
    Bill

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