85 Evo Motor Questions

**Akamm47** · 12-27-2021, 7:00 PM

Oh yea, the base stud came out with the head bolt because it was so rusted. I think this bike lived outside for a while.

Also don’t think it has ever been cleaned.

**Dragstews** · 12-27-2021, 7:27 PM

That was one of the year models that had problems with the motor sprocket shaft case race working loose in the case ...

**JBinNC** · 12-28-2021, 11:18 AM

Everything in your pics is consistent with any good ol' running evo. The wear lines adjacent to the stud holes in the cylinder bores is normal for the earlier cylinders.

You would be wise to toss the plastic breather gear if it's still there in favor of a steel one. And check to see if the cam bearing has been upgraded to the Torrington/ Koyo full complement piece.

Jim

**Akamm47** · 12-28-2021, 11:32 AM

I was surprised to see the plastic breather gear in there. It does have the upgraded cam bearing as well.

For the adjustable pushrods, what’s the proper way to set the lash?

**JBinNC** · 12-28-2021, 4:01 PM

Since it's got S&S tappets, you will have to determine if there is a lifter limiter kit installed.

If no kit, a standard tappet should run with the plunger right at .100 down the bore from the top. (Full travel of an evo tappet is about .200.) If there is a limiter kit installed, both those numbers will be cut in half.

Jim

**1954bmw** · 12-28-2021, 6:58 PM

Any chance you could post some pics of the bike???

**Akamm47** · 12-29-2021, 2:12 PM

For the life of me I can not get the oil pump body or cylinders off the cases, not sure if there is some gasket sealer used or what but they are stuck. Any tips on getting these parts off?

Here is the bike.

Been doing some cleaning too, was wondering where the oil filter mounted to, couldn’t even see that bolt.

**farmall** · 12-30-2021, 12:19 PM

I sometimes use a hardwood or stout plastic dowel and a hammer to rock cylinders slightly to free gaskets. You can use a hammer itself as the dowel by striking the head end.

Another trick which must be done carefully but works well is to hold a thin, sharp knife blade parallel (do NOT drive it tip first into the joint!) with the long axis of the joint between the part to be removed and its gasket. That uses the knife as a very slender wedge over a long surface area and keeping it if possible on the "part to be removed" side of the gasket confines any minor dings to the removed part rather than the more valuable crankcase. I tap slowly, patiently and evenly.

I use a quality knife blade (knives aren't worth shit compared to an engine) to avoid breakage.

**Akamm47** · 12-30-2021, 4:18 PM

Sweet, was thinking of using a knife too. That ended up doing the trick and removed the stuck parts.

Here’s a closer look at the rings and cylinders. What do you think?