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  1. #1
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    Default Ironhead Super E Magneto Kick Only won't run without enrichener on

    I'm stumped. I have a 1976 XLCH kick only with a Morris Magneto, Super E (295 int, 66 main), 1.75 straight pipes, and otherwise stock. I have NO battery as I'm running my lights off the regulator. The bike was running fine until the front cylinder exhaust clamp gave out on a ride. I replaced it and after replacing it the bike wouldn't run unless the enrichener was on. This is still the case. I can kick the bike in 1-3 kicks and it'll fire right up. If I keep the enrichener on it will idle just fine as if it was off. Today I pulled the carb, broke it down completely and soaked it in carb cleaner for 3 hours before putting it back together. The manifold is brand new and I tested it for leaks after the cleaned carb was put back on the bike. There are no air leaks and the bike still won't idle or run without the enrichener on. Does anyone have any suggestions? I appreciate any feedback, thank you!

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    It still sounds like a dirty carb/gas tank to me............

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    Apart from a vacuum leak or a blocked idle circuit, there are a couple more possibilities.

    You said you checked for a vacuum leak, but when did you last change the intake to head seals, and the orings on the insulator and carb base?

    Poor idle can be caused by valves that are not sealing when closed. When is the last time you adjusted the valves?
    Running with a loose pipe could have caused enough of an exhaust leak to warp or burn an exhaust valve.
    A valve adjustment followed by a compression test should eliminate the valves as a source of the problem.

    And lastly, when you cleaned and assembled the carb, did you set the float level using the exact method that S&S outlines?

    Jim

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    The seals from intake to head were changed about 2 months ago, they're practically new. The O-rings on insulator and carb base have not been changed since I got them, I'll order new ones right now. Valves were adjusted about 2 months ago when the new seals were put on the manifold. I did use exact S&S specifications for adjusting float level height.

    I'll make a point of adjusting the valves and doing a compression test today. Thanks Jim!

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    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52256 will get you a lifetime reserve supply of rings for cheep.

    You can make a simple manifold leak tester (works better than starting fluid which has a meniscus) if you wish. The plate-with-tire valve style is easy.

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    When you soaked the carb you didn't mention blowing out the passages with compressed air. Sometimes you can soak it all you ant but it takes some air to clear it out. I would clear all the passages, particularly the idle circuit (needle removed), and go riding.

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    When you soaked the carb you didn't mention blowing out the passages
    yup,that^^^.
    I like to use Brakleen as it is a powerful cleaner, leaves no residue, and when using the little 'straw', it can be shot directly into the passages and you can observe it coming out to be sure passages and jets are clear...but wear safety glasses.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    https://www.crcindustries.com/produc...-oz-05089.html

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    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    yup,that^^^.
    I like to use Brakleen as it is a powerful cleaner, leaves no residue, and when using the little 'straw', it can be shot directly into the passages and you can observe it coming out to be sure passages and jets are clear...but wear safety glasses.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Brakleen.jpg 
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    https://www.crcindustries.com/produc...-oz-05089.html
    ^^^ THIS ^^^

    Gumout carb & choke cleaner works too.

    Cannot emphasize enough, WEAR GLASSES!!!

    Doing this will also familiarize you with the various circuits in the carb and give a little insight into how it functions. There are air as well as fuel circuits in every carb. The air is just as important as the fuel.

    Jim

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    ^^^^^ I use starting fluid and it's even cleaner and dries immediately............

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