Power drop after dyna 2000i install

[fwwilkes]

Just installed a dyna 2ki in my 2000 sporty 1200. Solved every problem I had. No more backfiring, doesn’t die at high temp, no misfires etc. runs very smooth.

Only thing is I think there’s been a slight drop in power. I set the static time correctly and set the switches to stock engine.

Any suggestions?

[Tattooo]

Just installed a dyna 2ki in my 2000 sporty 1200. Solved every problem I had. No more backfiring, doesn’t die at high temp, no misfires etc. runs very smooth.

Only thing is I think there’s been a slight drop in power. I set the static time correctly and set the switches to stock engine.

Any suggestions?

My suggestion is to get out and ride it since it's running great.....

But I have a question....... You say it was running like crap by your description before the new ignition and now you say there is a power drop?? How can you tell????

[fwwilkes]

Haha - the symptoms I described started coming up once the bike got hot enough to kill the module. But for the first 10 min of riding it had more pep than it does now.

And for sure, I spent the summer without a running bike (other issues on top of this shit) so I’ll take what I can get this fall. It’s running smoothly enough to have fun.

[JBinNC]

Check the VOES for a vacuum leak, for electrical function, and that it is grounded. Your bike is at the age where the VOES start to fail.

Check your full advance timing at the flywheel with a strobe light (should be good with the Dynatek units but it is always wise to check).

Jim

[Tattooo]

Haha - the symptoms I described started coming up once the bike got hot enough to kill the module. But for the first 10 min of riding it had more pep than it does now.

And for sure, I spent the summer without a running bike (other issues on top of this shit) so I’ll take what I can get this fall. It’s running smoothly enough to have fun.

Got ya now I understand. It looks like JB has chimed it. Welcome and enjoy the fall riding season.

[fwwilkes]

Check the VOES for a vacuum leak, for electrical function, and that it is grounded. Your bike is at the age where the VOES start to fail.

Check your full advance timing at the flywheel with a strobe light (should be good with the Dynatek units but it is always wise to check).

Jim

One thing I forgot to mention is that I don’t have the module wired to the voes. I was told I could ground the voes wire from the 2ki to bypass the voes. Sounds like mak the thats a bad idea?

If I recall correctly, there are two wires that connect to the voes via duestch connector. Can I simply cut the duestch connector off, twist those two wires together and connect them to the 2ki wire with a butt connector?

[JBinNC]

The VOES diminishes or eliminates the tendency to spark knock in hot weather.

If you are going to eliminate the VOES, grounding the VOES wire from the module is the correct way, as you have done. That will give the most aggressive advance curve if the module is switched to normal VOES mode. On the Dynatek units, if you switch to race mode, grounding the VOES wire will retard the timing by a set amount.

I would suggest that you keep the VOES, after testing for function. The cleanest way is to use the VOES plug and harness from your stock module, and splice the Dynatek VOES wire into that. Then plug it up like stock. (The other wire in the VOES harness has to go to a good ground if the switch is to work.)

Jim

[frisco1rigid]

There should never be a change in Power after an Ignition swap unless the timing was changed.
Like slower/faster rate of advance or Final advance.
The only job any Ign has -- is to "spark" at the correct time. If you could light a match in the chamber fast enough and at the Exact correct instant it would be just as efficient at igniting the charge.

There is a reason why all the Big Motor companies ( Merch, Ultima, S S etc. ) suggest to NOT hook up a VOES onto their motors. It is because they are Undependable and will destroy a Big motor quick Via Detonation.
The VOES advances at high easy Vacuum ( easy going hiway for example ) and retards back to "spec" upon Low Vacuum, like when you twist da wick and create low Vac condition. If the VOES is faulty and does Not retard correctly it can mean trouble for any motor but especially a Big motor that is sensitive to Correct Timing.
I never hook up VOES, we been doing just fine for many years before VOES was introduced into our HD lives.

As for timing -- I will copy/paste my post about easy Real Time timing next. Have a ball. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Timing with NO Oil in the face and more accurate than Static timing.

If running a Primary belt, you're sitting in Tall cotton -- If using a Chain Primary drain the primary case and remove Any outer case because you need to get your fingers in that tight area.

Pull out the timing plug, pull out the plugs for easy motor turning and slip a socket on the motor nut.
Slow turn the motor forward to expose the Full Advance Timing mark (on compression stroke if Single-Fire) in the center of the hole for 35* Full Advance. If Points Or Dual-Fire Dyna S either stroke will do.
Now at Eye Level (very important) looking directly at the 4 'clock position on the Inner Primary -- Permanently inscribe/file or whatever a mark on the Alternator Rotor -- Now with Felt tip pen Or metal scribe or Whatever place a mark DIRECTLY across from the Rotor Mark onto the Inner Primary. - They must be Directly across from each other for accurate timing.
Now rotate the motor forward to expose the TDC mark, you will see the FAM you placed on the Rotor up at about the 1 0'clock position now.
Just for future reference, mark the Inner Primary directly opposite that F A M on the rotor. I think it a good idea to have that reference mark.

This can be done with Belt or Chain Primary drive BUT be certain to drain fluid if Chain otherwise the splashing fluid will impede your view of the timing light and Marks.

Now replace the timing hole plug. You should Never need to remove it again Except to simply Verify that everything is still copacetic.
Rotate the Points plate OR Dyna S plate to approx. the 12:30 position << the Top Modual on the Dyna S.
Now you may start motor and with a Timing Light simply line up the Full Advance Mark on the corresponding mark on inner Primary.
Remember, the front of the hole is about 32* Full Advance and I advise Not to time earlier than the OEM 35*.

All the same applies to your fully elec. Ign << 2000i, you will see the FAM move to where you want it.

There will easily be enough fluid on the Chain and Sprockets to NOT cause any harm while running motor to do this.
Replace outer case and fluid for Chain or whatever you are running.

You have now replicated the old-style of timing a car motor that has Marks on the Harmonic Balancer - no Hassle no oil in face.

The first pic shows correct "line-up" of Full advance.
The second pic shows "line-up" of TDC.
Third pic shows a "retarded" setting.
Forth pic shows waay too much Advance.

[DustyDave]

Are you sure it's really down on power? I had a whole family insist that the power was down on their Thunderbird that the only thing I did was put the plug wire back on. Sometimes smoother seems less powerful.
Dusty

[Tattooo]

Sometimes smoother seems less powerful.
Dusty

Yep you got that right, that's exactly why I suggested for him to just get out and ride it now that it's running right.

[fwwilkes]

Yep you got that right, that's exactly why I suggested for him to just get out and ride it now that it's running right.

My girlfriend did say last night “wow it’s a lot smoother now”… maybe she’s on to something

Anyway, im gonna run as is for the time being. May try a couple different switch positions on the module, but im not hearing any pinging so I should be good. Thanks for the feedback y’all.