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10-07-2021 #1
2012 Sporty 72 Early-Style Springer Install
To chase a slightly different look, I've decided to go down the path of converting my 2012 Sportster 72 to a springer front end. The plan will be to run a build thread as I go through the process, noting that I couldn't find a great deal of info that covers the conversion from start to finish (apart from here: springer how to) so I thought I'd document it here for anyone else thinking of doing the same. Note that this is not a simple bolt-on option! There's a bit of mucking around to get it mounted up and few areas to remove on both the frame and forks to get them to work so if your squeamish about cutting shit off your bike or new parts then this isn't for you. I've already cut bits off the 72 like the stupid forward seat mount so I'm happy to bring out the angle grinder...
Being Aus based, springers can be an expensive purchase due to shipping, etc from the normal suppliers in the US, but I came across a great little Aussie firm Meatballs Springers who offer an early-style reproduction of Harley Davidson’s Springer forks as used on their big twins from 1936 to 1948 (early-style springer). Meatballs Springers have been fantastic to deal with and the quality of their products is second to none.
For this build I've gone with a black with chrome springs 20" setup to match the current lowered stance and which will compliment my lightly modded 72 nicely. Here's the current setup that I'll be starting with for the project.Last edited by Animosity; 10-27-2021 at 10:29 PM.
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10-07-2021 #2Senior Member
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cool, be good to read.
Here is a build thread of a +4 Meatball springer install on a Pan, by Prof at The Chopper Shed in SA:
Pan upgrade and meatballs 6 over springer...
"First up is a Meatballs 4" over springer and three degree raked headstem bearing cups.
Step one. Put her up on my truing stand. Step two remove the front end..."
http://www.choppersaustralia.com/for...3e49fdeaf5d8a7
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10-07-2021 #3
2012 Sporty 72 Early-Style Springer Install
cool, be good to read.
Here is a build thread of a +4 Meatball springer install on a Pan, by Prof at The Chopper Shed in SA:
Pan upgrade and meatballs 6 over springer...
"First up is a Meatballs 4" over springer and three degree raked headstem bearing cups.
Step one. Put her up on my truing stand. Step two remove the front end..."
http://www.choppersaustralia.com/for...3e49fdeaf5d8a7
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10-07-2021 #4
Before we get into the build, a quick post which I’ll keep updated for the list of parts, etc used during the build including must-have bits and anything optional (OPT):
• Early-style 20” Springer (standard length)
• Top Clamp – OEM Style (can use other styles)
• 1" HD Drag Bars (to be cut up to mount in the top clamp)
• Head Stem Nut Set – Early Style
• Headlight Mounting Bracket - Low Style (OPT)
• Wheel Bearing Reducers (25mm to ¾” for newer Sportsters)
• 1” ID x 2mm headstem washers (QTY 2)
• Chrome Screw-in Fork plugs (OPT)
• Fender Mounts (OPT)
• DNA LHS Brake Kit (lots of brake options to choose from)
• Aris Style Headlight (OPT)
• Speedo Relocation Mount (OPT)
• Bar Mounted and number plate LED indicators (OPT)
• 3mm Roll Pin and Safety Wire (OPT)Last edited by Animosity; 10-27-2021 at 10:34 PM.
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10-07-2021 #5
2012 Sporty 72 Early-Style Springer Install
So a quick look at the Meatballs Springer that’s going on. Again, build quality is fantastic and the small details such as grease nipples for easier maintenance point to the time and effort Tony puts into his products. The headstem is 1" and fits the standard 2012 Sporty neck/headstem bearing set-up.
The springer comes with a 3/4" axle set-up so you'll need to either swap out the bearings or use reducers like I did to convert your wheel to accept the reduced axle - 25mm to 3/4" in my case.
Last edited by Animosity; 10-07-2021 at 11:40 PM.
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10-08-2021 #6
2012 Sporty 72 Early-Style Springer Install
Cutting time!
Early-style springers have steering stops on the back of the rear fork. These prevent the forks clearing the 2012 frame during assembly and need to be removed. No removal = no fit.
While you’ve got the grinder out, the factory steering lock prevents the forks turning to the right and this also needs to go. Drill out the retaining pin to remove the lock, cut off the majority of the lock stem and then blend into the frame. Once this is gone there’s plenty of clearance lock-to-lock. To prevent crap getting into the headstem I filled the cavity with body filler, sanded and then painted it black. I also touched up the forks while I had the paint out. No pics of this but you’ll figure it out…
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