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  1. #721
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Re-pops are available, going to scout for a used one in my location ...
    I see what you did there...

  2. #722
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockman96 View Post
    I see what you did there...


    You found an "Easter egg" ...Lol

    Last edited by Dragstews; 11-08-2022 at 1:10 PM.

  3. #723
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    Might find some goodies hid away inside the old girl .. ??
    Soon to have it gutted down to skin & bone ...
    _________________________________________

    Well now ...
    Not at all in bad shape, had a Andrews J grind cam in the critter, only bad to see in the cam chest was the gen idle stud bolt broken ...



    A bit more tear down and parts will be taking a ride in the jet washer ...
    Then bead blasted, and steamed cleaned..
    After that bit of work goes down we can start in on how we are going to build it back .. ??
    ___________________________________

    For you-guys that like using Yamabond for case sealer ... WTF !!!



    Need three sticks of TnT to get em apart ..
    That stuff seals great but there are other sealants on the market that does just as good of a job and is user friendly ...
    _______________________________

    Making up a parts order list, thinking this will stay a 74 inch motor, not a whole lot of wear & tear on it. Will be doing a few mods to improve the oiling system, might do the right side case breather ...
    Soon will have a sack full of parts on the doorstep ...
    _______________________________

    Cleaned up nice ..



    ... /// https://youtu.be/b76kjd5nvMg \\\ ...
    Last edited by Dragstews; 11-19-2022 at 1:16 PM.

  4. #724
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    While I never had problems with the ThreeBond family that post reminds me an old idea I had (and may have posted but I'm too lazy to look) for a powerful cheap effective no-pry case splitter.

    Cases suck to split because they lack designed-in cast pry points. Big twin cases having two split mount pads could be split under control by cutting four pieces of bar stock (imagine a stock mount pad split as the cases are split).

    Drill the blocks to match the engine mounting holes. Then cross-drill two of those blocks for a forcing bolt and tap those holes to suit.

    Use bolts with enough thread so they don't bottom out on the forcing blocks before splitting the cases. If needed you could counterbore for more depth but I'd want at least ~5/8" thread engagement on steel (I would not use aluminum because threads in aluminum are so weak).

    Bolt your blocks to the engine like mounts then SLOWLY apply EVEN force by tightening each screw a small amount at a time, say a half turn, after running them down so they just touch the driven blocks.

    The driven blocks won't tend to shift enough on the axis of the engine mount bolt to be a problem for the short distance (maybe an eighth inche to release the sealant) required to split HD cases but it would be easy to buy two machinery dowel pins then drill the blocks for them so the bolt and pin offset controls rotation under load. There are many ways to produce any result you want. Some flat bar tacked to the side of the driven blocks could control their position vs. the drive blocks but I'd not bother unless there's good reason.

    No more pry bars and no more risk of distorted case lips. Total cost a hunk 'o scrap bar (local metal suppliers have "cut off" or "drop" bins of leftovers which may have what ya need), two forcing cap screws or heex bolts plus four more with nuts and washers to engage the engine mount bosses) and some drilling and tapping. Using square or rectangular bar eliminates having to machine the tops flat (burrs can be dressed off).

    Thanks for stirring what's left of my mind to action. Those simple tooks can be made with many variations anyone who builds engines can easily imagine.

    A case with broken mount ears could be split by tacking some appropriate scrap to a driven block to push on what remains. Using the case sections intended for much heavier operating loads beats stabbing between the sealant lips.

    The very small movement required to separate the case joint should not promote case cocking. For tapping cases apart a hunk of broomstick (or for machinists grab some scrap plastic rod) is the kind way to safely reach inside the piston skirt area below the cylinder deck.

    Drag of course knows but always aim well below a deck or joint surface with thy tapping rod so ya don't upset the nearby machined surface.

    An engine stand could incorporate forcing blocks with the fixed blocks welded to the stand and the movable blocks left off since they would get less use (or bolted to the stand with their own bolts after drilling two holes so they never get lost).

    Weld the fixed blocks level with the engine mount pads so they are outboard of one side of the engine stand. Bolt bottom end with the case half you prefer on the stand and the half you wish to remove bolted to the drive blocks (that keeps the stand simple while the drive end can be hung on your tool board etc).

    This method would work well with the sheet steel stands Dragstews uses and he splits some expensive high dollah cases. It doesn't add load to the stand which just captures one side which is fine for holding the bottom end in space if the stand is mounted. If the stand is left loose on the bench it would support the case half (with or without crankshaft like a three-legged milking stool, two points being the stand feet and one the crankshaft.

    I'd mostly bolt the output shaft side to the stand (which in my case would be attached to a Harbor Freight engine stand or a strand head so I can rotate engines or bottom ends) since it's pressed onto the crankshaft which will be undisturbed and can be removed with a manual screw drive pusher tool if ya get bored enough to make one but since I don't do volume I'd just tote the assembly to my shop press.

    I found out it pays to make a tool the first time I see a need so I usually do, then they come in handy for more than the original intent.

    Noobs note! BE GENTLE while learning this stuff.

    BTW the drawback of using a "Jims cone motor style" case splitter on a generator engine is the risk to primary cover screw holes in very old, very brittle (aluminum ages poorly) alloy. I don't care for it on any little threads. It's easy to homebrew either or both styles from some scrap and a bit of hardware.

    ---
    While two more tapped holes and two cap screws or bolts ain't a tall order an even simpler way would be drill four hunks of whatever is handy for the engine mount bolts leaving room to bet a pry bar between them. That gets you bolt-on pry points but it's much more awkward than drive screws.
    Last edited by farmall; 11-20-2022 at 2:19 AM.

  5. #725
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post

    Thanks for stirring what's left of my mind to action.
    !! D'oh !! ... Did I do that ?!?

  6. #726
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    Yup. Accidents will happen. (resumes drooling on shoes...)

  7. #727
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    Spitting the motor crankcase (Without damage) can be a PITA when Yamabond been used ..



    This tool works well, had to shorten it some to get it between the cylinder base studs ..

    Last edited by Dragstews; 11-20-2022 at 4:57 AM.

  8. #728
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    That brings back memories of SBC exhaust manifold warpage! Still have some rams horns on the wall.

    You could also run bolts through the engine mounts (head side out) with enough extended after tightening the nuts to give that KD turnbuckle jack screw some purchase and use as many as you care to depending on how stuck the case is.

  9. #729
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    Looks like a sack full to me ..



    Changing out the pinion shaft to an end oiler also speeding up the oil pump with 73-up gears ...

    Got a bit of work to do repairing broken fins ...



    Bet there's a story to tell on how they got broke ??

    In that sack was a S&S breather gear ... Tomorrow will match the case window to the gear window and check the open & closing timing ... That outta keep me busy for a while ...

    ... I'm tried of sanding on the Binder !!



    That's one, three more to go !!

    (Fats where its at.... Fu*k dat shit !!) ... If I'd known it was going to be this much work. I'd kelp the "Rooster-Tails" ...

    ... /// https://youtu.be/JnSEQx9wkvE \\\ ...

    I hear ya'll ...
    Quit my bitchin and ....


    __________________________________________________ ___

    BTW;

    Came up with another set of inner fender braces ...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Some "Slice & Dice"

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    And married them ..

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This small bit of effort was only to retain the factory look ...
    (Just in case some busybody sticks his head in the fender well for a look-see)
    Last edited by Dragstews; 11-23-2022 at 2:42 PM.

  10. #730
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    Breather mods;

    Opened up the case window to match the S&S window in the gear ...



    Above photo shows the case window untouched ...



    This is after some whittling .. Note that the window's open and closing has not been altered .... Timing is as the factory did it ...
    Only squared up the case window to the gear ...

    A check on the timing has now commenced ..
    Bare in mind that the S&S gear has added open window timing built in ...



    And the numbers are ...



    Opens at: 20* ATDC
    Closes at: 86* ABDC

    Our target is
    Opening 17* after TDC (+/- 10*)
    Closing 82* after BDC (+/- 10*)

    No mods are needed on the case window ...
    If the stock Oem breather gear was being used there would be a need to carve on the case window to see these numbers ...
    ________________________________________________

    Going to the end oiler pinion shaft required a new bushing to be installed ...



    Weep hole in the cover was plugged ...



    The Jims shaft has threads that will allow to meter the oil flow to the rods ...



    Time to install the cam cover pinion bushing ...





    Line reamed is next to do ..
    Last edited by Dragstews; 11-23-2022 at 7:07 PM.

  11. #731
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    Oil pump is next to be on the chopping block ....



    It too will be seeing a few mods ...

    ... /// https://youtu.be/z9eHgsKe8P8 \\\ ...

  12. #732
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    Any chances on showing your fin repair process? Thanks for taking the time to post all this up Dragstews, I enjoy following along on your engine work.

  13. #733
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    Sure ...

    Hadn't gave much thought on how that chore will go down just yet ... ??
    When I get around to doing is when the "Tom Terrific" hat goes on me head !



    Glad you're finding the thread entertaining ...
    With others posting their ....



    Makes for better content ...


  14. #734
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    What ya think .... Wet paint or powdercoat ??



    Got a new seat for the check ball to sit down on ..



    That outta do it ...

    Bumping the oil pressure up a tad ...



    Did away with the Oem relief spring and use a 83-up spring ...
    ____________________

    Well. the owner made the call ..

    Last edited by Dragstews; 11-25-2022 at 6:38 PM.

  15. #735
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    If ya know anyone who Cerakotes (mostly gunsmiths) future customers may prefer that because it's far tougher than paint or powder and doesn't chip. Not even rifle bore cleaner fucks with Cerakote and it's thin enough cured not to be an issue on firearms.

    If ya have a beater electric oven ya can do it yerself to get familiar. I helped my gunsmithbro build his shop so I get freebies which was a nice way to be rid of feeble gun blue.

    https://www.cerakote.com/project-gal...ids=Automotive

    https://www.cerakote.com/project-gal...-spec-od-green

    Faux Parkerizing that won't rust:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcTvJbhwYzE

    Anyone can do Cerakote as the equipment is not expensive. I'm considering it for the Panhead frame because it's so rugged. If I don't have my oven done in time I'll see about the local coaters baking it for me.
    Last edited by farmall; 11-25-2022 at 8:16 PM.

  16. #736
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    That's great to know ..

    I did the top tree on the 52 with that stuff ...
    Hard as nails, I'm here to tell ya ...

    Click image for larger version. 

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  17. #737
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    Nice strategic use of black there.

    Wheel time approaches. What's the detailed recipe for that front end? Looks like bored (39mm?) trees w. Wide Glide tubes/sliders.

    I was considering a Norton Commando drum for looks but came to my senses and will go dual front disc because this un's for riding. I like Wide Glide sliders for esthetic reasons though I've got plenty of 39mm stuff. Machining is no problem.

  18. #738
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post

    What's the detailed recipe for that front end? Looks like bored (39mm?) trees w. Wide Glide tubes/sliders.
    CERIANI Road Racing,

    I welded on Low Rider riser's and took another set inverted em, counter sunk the bolt holes for top clamps ...
    Did the polish thingie to it, but with everything else being shiny, it was to much ...

    Bottom tree also seen some welding with making a springer headlight mount..
    Fender is from a 165 Hummer, along with the top half of a gas tank, bottom half is from a 66 XLCH Sportie ..



    Just recently added another splash of black ... The headlight shell ...
    Too much shinny in one spot kinda kills the look ....

    The idea I had in building my scooter was to use as much as I could Harley parts from all models and years in the construction ... Like the K-Model Tail light, made it with hidden mounts same goes for the gas tank, Speed-E-Shift down shift lever was first year Harley front brake lever ...

    Rear fender was made from three Harley fenders, two Super Glides and the og hardtail ... 6 pieces hammered welded together ... The two Super Glides was butted to each other and then has a inch added to the middle ... The fender end trim is from a 49 FL front fender, revamped to fit ..
    ---------------------------------------------------------

    History on that Fork;

    Ceriani, formerly Arces, was an Italian company that designed and fabricated motorcycle frames and suspensions. The company was founded by Arturo Ceriani in 1951.[citation needed] Arces is an acronym derived from Arturo Ceriani.

    In the European motorcycle industry, it was common for many smaller parts companies to exist, each responsible for creating individual parts to later be assembled into a complete motorcycle. Within a few years of its creation, Ceriani's company was able to successfully make a name for itself by manufacturing components noted for their quality and vision.

    In 1964, under the leadership of Arturo's son Enrico Ceriani, the companies operations were expanded.[citation needed] Enrico accelerated the expansion by moving the company to a new and more modern plant in Samarate. From 1964 the company was known within the industry as ARCES (an acronym of ARturo CEriani Samarate) but the brand identity was maintained and the company continued to be known as Ceriani by consumers.

    A central development in the new plant was the creation of a team that was dedicated to studying and designing new solutions for the suspension systems and frames of competition motorcycles.

    In the late 1960s, Ceriani began to produce an innovative new type of fork slider made of a light alloy for use in competition and a revolutionary type of telescopic hydraulic suspension that was originally used on motocross bikes but was later applied to street motorcycles.

    The demand for the new suspension was so high that ARCES output had doubled compared to the year before. The new technology exploded onto the market and by 1972 Ceriani had sold 100,000 suspension units, 30,000 to competition motorcycles and 70,000 to consumer street bikes.

    In the late 1970s, Ceriani experienced a rapid and unexpected decline during the overall crisis in the European manufacturing sector due to increased demand that stressed the capabilities of smaller companies. Other companies were able to successfully adapt and fill the niche of competition motorcycle parts manufacturing that was left vacant by Ceriani's inability to effectively meet rising demand.

    Ceriani was not able to recover to the changing market and their plant closed down in 1980. The prestigious Ceriani brand name was bought in 1997 by Italian motorcycle parts maker Paioli.

    I bought the Fork new in 1975 and did my thing to it ...



    Fork, wheel and brakes I got from .... "Kosman Specialties"

    https://www.roadracingworld.com/news...-sandy-kosman/ ... (RIP)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 93378157_10219950675215837_4645125929419407360_n.jpg  
    Last edited by Dragstews; 11-28-2022 at 11:15 AM.

  19. #739
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    A veritable cornucopia of vintage bits!

    I should be flogged for not zooming the pic of Cherry Annie sliders especially now I remember you mentioning those previously. If I find a set I've a Triumph Trident that would take priority so I'll either do narrowed Wide Glide or a 39mm dual disc, and to get the show on the road I may as well do wheels first.

    Got any late Evo black steel rear spoked hubs? If so that beats me buying one then shipping to you for lacing.
    Last edited by farmall; 11-26-2022 at 1:55 PM.

  20. #740
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    Useless tidbit of info here ...
    I saw La Pieta at the 64 World's Fair in New York City ..

    ... /// https://youtu.be/gu_xjn3esmc \\\ ...

    I said it way before Spock did !!

    Last edited by Dragstews; 11-26-2022 at 1:38 PM.

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