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  1. #1
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    Default 41mm not too narrow trees

    Anybody know who makes a set or provides the service for boring 39mm narrowglide trees up to 41mm?

    Not interested in super narrow trees like Mullins, etc.

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    I had my buddy do a set for me. Any machine shop should be able to modify a set for you no problem.

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    Cool. That's what I'll probably do then. Wasn't sure if there was something additional I was missing as. If it's really just as easy as boring them up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackCloudSalvage View Post
    Cool. That's what I'll probably do then. Wasn't sure if there was something additional I was missing as. If it's really just as easy as boring them up.
    Well, there is a bit more to it. Boring them for the 41mm legs is the first part, but then the top tree has to be machined to accept the 41mm style top cap. Aaron has done a set or two, but I don't imagine he's a reliable resource for this type of work anymore.

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    What areas need to be cut for the cap? I don't run Wide Glides and haven't had one apart in many years.

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    Ahhh hah. I see what Badmonkey is talking about. That's why you gotta throw these questions out there.

    The tubes, at least on my '75 FLH Wide Glide, narrow down at the top to much smaller than 41mm. They don't taper, rather there is a cap on top that essentially serves as a sleave and goes into a the top tree and then the very top cap threads into it and flush against the top tree.

    After reading other forums I found that there are some companies which make a normal cap, like on the 39mm tubes but for 41mm. You would just need to account for the length lost in sliding the tubes up through the top tree if you were concerned about stock length.

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    Yep, I was thinking someone made the 39mm style caps for 41mm tubes so you could get away with just boring the trees out. I just wasn't sure. You get what I'm talking about though, so you're on the right track towards your skinny 41 dreams.

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    a quick google turned up these... might save you some time

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...13788268100886

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    Sweet.

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    andy at pangea just put this out today also

    https://www.instagram.com/p/Bc74NhIg...by=pangeaspeed

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    i just did a set for my build. Basically just made a nice little jig. made 2 dowels a 39 and a 41 so clamped one end onto the 39mm down and then machined the free end. then switched it out for the 41mm dowel and the fresh 41mm bore slides on and you machine the other side. as for the caps. I just machined off the upper piece and welded a stainless allen bolt. but i plan on making some nice ones. the only problem is you loose an inch or so from the fork tubes sliding a little farther up into the trees.

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    Last edited by xMPRx; 12-23-2017 at 12:15 AM.

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    Good photos to really show what you do to make the switch from 39mm to 41.

    p.s. That high shoulder rim/spool hub front wheel is the shit. Love it.

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    I like that jig!

    If you want more you could turn off a cap flange, bore the center then turn a dual-diameter slug (and bevel the bottom end for welding) with a flange on the top. Press fit + TIG would make it effectively one piece. There would be plenty of room to repeat your socket head trick flush with the top, and if you like you could use a much larger OD socket head then drill and tap that for a fill plug (pulling fork caps to add fluid sucks).

    Since you now have the jig ya might offer to machine triple clamps for others. Given current machine shop rates a hundred bucks-ish plus postage per set would undercut most machine shops (who often get that or more an hour) and be fair IMO.
    Last edited by farmall; 12-23-2017 at 7:04 AM.

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    There is another method for the top caps. Machine a sleeve with the i.d. the same as the narrow part on the top cap and the o.d. either 41 mm, or if you want to skip boring the top tree make it 39 mm. Length is the same as the narrow part of the top cap Then put a slice in that sleeve so when you tighten the top tree, it tightens the sleeve. Put the stock 41mm top nut back on and you're done. You either have to do it this way, or make/modify your own top cap if you're running '49-'77 style tubes. The aftermarket caps are all for the later forks. Custom Cycle Engineering makes a set of those as well.

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    Sweet. I need more tools!!

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    I like that jig!

    If you want more you could turn off a cap flange, bore the center then turn a dual-diameter slug (and bevel the bottom end for welding) with a flange on the top. Press fit + TIG would make it effectively one piece. There would be plenty of room to repeat your socket head trick flush with the top, and if you like you could use a much larger OD socket head then drill and tap that for a fill plug (pulling fork caps to add fluid sucks).

    Since you now have the jig ya might offer to machine triple clamps for others. Given current machine shop rates a hundred bucks-ish plus postage per set would undercut most machine shops (who often get that or more an hour) and be fair IMO.
    Good ideas! I just recently packed my entire machine shop into a 10x30 storage unit as my house just sold, so everything is on hold, but in 2 weeks i get off this tug boat and start looking for the new shop space, the healthy profits I just made are allowing me to throw about 60k into upgrading my machines so yes with a DRO on my new bridgeport and 2.0 version of the fixture $100 would be easy profit. the slowest part is having to sweep indicate every time.

  17. #17
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    If you build shop space, High Cube 40-foot or longer containers with doors on each end (in one-trip condition they go about five grand each, well worth it) are a quick way to add weatherproof modules suitable for machine tools without pouring a slab. They only need support under the corner fittings as I'm sure you're aware from working a tug.

    Steelmaster-style building kit companies offer roofing systems/building kits which integrate containers. Check Sea Box and other industrial/military container shop suppliers for some sexy shop inspiration. If your shop fit in 20x30 storage it should expand into two containers which are easy to join (temp or permanently( side-by side. You can hang shelving/racking etc from the interior tiedown loops.

    They are very easy to work with.

  18. #18

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    xMPRx .. still there? Was wondering if you got setup to do this? Trying to find right set of 39mm trees to modify to new 41mm dual disk forks I just bought. Want 1" stem and will use factory dual disk brake parts, front fender, headlight, fork lock and lower tree cover. Do you have any sets that might fit that bill you could modify?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by keithnh View Post
    xMPRx .. still there? Was wondering if you got setup to do this? Trying to find right set of 39mm trees to modify to new 41mm dual disk forks I just bought. Want 1" stem and will use factory dual disk brake parts, front fender, headlight, fork lock and lower tree cover. Do you have any sets that might fit that bill you could modify?

    Ya man I can get this done for you. I dont have a set but ill keep my eyes open. get ahold of me on instagram if you have it @robertsusamade Im off shore on a ship and thats the best way to contact.

    thanks,
    matt

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