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  1. #21
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    There's nothing wrong with the stock five speed except it's not the later splined shaft five speed but the guts/door/later end cover do swap.

    OP doesn't need a Shovelhead style case since the frame must be modified to take it. Shovelhead style trans are inferior pieces besides lacking a gear. If my Shovel boxes ever shit the bed they'll be replaced with splined shaft Softail transmissions and primary drives, but I think they get scared into behaving when I mention that.

    Options given the frame is already set up for a five speed:

    Replace the transmission with a later splined shaft FXR box then add kicker for appearance.
    Drawback, lack of those for sale cheap.

    Remove the existing gears from the current five speed case and install later splined shaft internals/trap door/clutch release. Even if not using the e-start I'd bore the hole to fit the later Denso starters while I was there. I'll likely do that with my leftover FXR box since now I've a spline shaft five speed leftover too. Add kicker for appearance. Five speed takeouts are cheap on Ebay from sellers who upgrade to six speeds. Running a five speed case makes future six speed installs easy.

    Buy a later bagger box and run without oil pan as a bolt-in (on stock FXRs and likely the Paughco but I don't know what crossmembers it runs).

    What I would do (and did to my FXR):
    Get a late bagger box with integrated oil tank and run that to get rid of the fucking stupid (all of them) stock oil tank above the transmission and free all that space for maintenance. HD oil tanks don't need to hang in space which is why that went away. Add kicker kit for the pretty but I'd still keep the e-start or at least block off the mounting ear. We all get old and crippled and hideously fucked up if we live long enough (or injure a knee) so I never eliminate an option just to look kool parked. Integral oil tank means no more wet sumping.

    Options if there is room and fabbing a new trans mount isn't a problem, and the longer drivetrain is sexually attractive because it looks MUCH more classic:

    Run a later Softail primary drive and transmission. Add kicker for appearance. All the five speed advantages and the more attractive longer primary drive. Lots of primary drive options.

    Buy or build a four speed transmission in a four speed case. No upgrade options, stuck with that clunky agricultural box in a more hassle to rebuild (vs. effortless swap without a case pull) case. No six speed option without case replacement.

    Baker 6 into 4 classic looking gearbox. $$$ but very nice.
    https://bakerdrivetrain.com/collecti...ssion-assembly
    Last edited by farmall; 05-18-2020 at 4:26 PM.

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Going with an open drive does presents a problem using the 70-up tranny ...
    Gone are the casted in track lugs that the 64 and back trannys used for stability ...

    A motor plate would be wise to have especially if you do any Hot-Dog riding ...


    Who makes that motor plate? And where do I find one?

  3. #23
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    A Buddy has this in his stash .... He would sell it ...
    It's all together in a Sputhe case ...


  4. #24
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    ** .. OR ... **

    The S&S 4 to 5-speed transmission case is not compatible with the factory Harley-Davidson® primary belt drive used on 1980-’83 FXSB Sturgis models. For applications that utilize an existing 4-speed driveline, a 1980 to early ‘84, 5-speed style chain-drive mainshaft and 1980 to early ‘84 style main drive gear must be used.

    These parts are compatible with the tapered I.D. clutch hub used on 4-speed big twins. 4 and 5-speed transmissions utilize the same 1:1 final drive ratio. As a result, the 5-speed gear set will not alter engine RPM at highway speeds.
    The additional gear narrows the gap between lower gears for improved acceleration and better performance in traffic.
    This transmission case will fit earlier big twin frames.

    However, the engine sprocket shaft must be of the type used in 1970-later big twin style engines. The transmission case itself is compatible with H-D® secondary (rear) belt drive if the correct mainshaft, main drive gear, inner primary cover, starter shaft, starter housing, and related parts are used.

    However, the builder may encounter other obstacles when converting a motorcycle with chain final drive to belt final drive.
    The purchaser’s countershaft and shift fork shaft will require shortening.
    A low contact-style countershaft gear must be used in this transmission case to match the 1980-’84 main drive gear required.
    Harley-Davidson® replaced low-contact gears with high-contact gears on 1994 international big twin models and 1995 U.S. models.
    Low and high contact gears can't be mixed.

    S&S trap doors are of the 1987-’99 style.
    S&S recommends using this style trap door and end cover with the ""ball and ramp"" clutch actuator.
    The strength of the earlier, lever-type actuator is marginal for heavy clutch springs sometimes required in high-performance applications.

    Or use my trapdoor made for using a 4-speed kick cover ...

    Most 4-speed big twin style engines utilize transmission-driven mechanical speedometers. This transmission case has no provision for speedometer drive, and must be used with a wheel-driven speedometer and speedometer drive.
    The existing wheel may require modification to accept the speedometer drive unit.

    The clutch-actuator end of the 4-speed clutch cable is not compatible with the five-speed type clutch actuator.
    Options are to replace the existing clutch lever with an 1987-’99 style lever or purchase a custom cable with the correct ends from Barnett Tool and Engineering in Ventura, California. (Phone: 805-642-9435)

    .../// https://assetcloud.roccommerce.net/f...d_20080204.pdf \\\...
    Last edited by Dragstews; 05-22-2020 at 12:17 PM.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperNaut82 View Post
    Who makes that motor plate? And where do I find one?
    If you're interested I'm repopping a phase 3 casting that uses the stock HD trans/motor centers (the OG doesn't). sunsetcyclecast.blogspot.com

  6. #26
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    Got any more photos ... ??


  7. #27
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    No I don't yet but I do have the pattern. I made minor changes so it should be in casting this week--wonder how that'll go with covid. It sure made my life a shitshow. The centers and offset match HD, standard motor/trans centers. Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #28
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    Since it's all one piece, should be a lot stronger than a built up unit ...
    ... ...

    (Outta think about making some with a spin-on oil filter too)
    Last edited by Dragstews; 05-22-2020 at 2:10 PM.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Since it's all one piece, should be a lot stronger than a built up unit ...
    ... ...

    (Outta think about making some with a spin-on oil filter too)
    That's a good idea for later, something like this cast into the part https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ford-...ter,12822.html--it's 1/2" thick all ready so it might be easy to machine it right into the plate. I've also got stands for mids but I left them off because they're really ugly. I can't wrap my head around the mids you see fabricated for the old plate so I just incorporated the stock FXS shifter and foot peg.

  10. #30
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    Handsome part!

    A way to mount a filter (or a custom mid control or anything else that fits) could be facing and drilling the casting for any mount you like. Your choice to keep it simple keeps it versatile.

  11. #31
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    Thanks! It took about 4 hours of machining to do it initially, it should be half that maybe under an hour if I cast the offset correctly. What screwed me (why the belt is so loose) is that the 12-13/16th center shrank 6% over that length of casting.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by seaking View Post
    If you're interested I'm repopping a phase 3 casting that uses the stock HD trans/motor centers (the OG doesn't). sunsetcyclecast.blogspot.com
    Holy shit seaking that looks good. I am very interested on running this on my shovel. I have the primo motor plate but I like the finned, one piece look. I just have to modify it a bit to get the idler on there :-)

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