Shovel won't idle

[JBinNC]

They are not made from Rubber that the Mo-Co used back in the day ....

Ya gotta come out of the cave to see what's new every now and again ...

Don't talk down to me. I know what's what. I've been at it as long as you have. I am willing to let you have your opinion. Show me the same respect.

Jim

[Dragstews]

Not talking down to you ...
Trying to enlighten you to new products that far exceeds Oem ....

But, I'm beginning to think your alot like a Snapping Turtle that lashes on and won't let go until a Full Moon comes around ...

[captseadog]

3-4 years ago I bought a set of those seals for my panhead. It had the o-rings on it but when I did a valve job and addressed some oil leaks I tried out that fna seal kit. Put them according to directions, which were pretty vague in tightening, had to swap back to o-rings by late may, maybe 700-1000 miles later tops. O-rings have been on since with no problems. Looking at the seals when I removed them it did look like the clamp cut the band. I probably over tightened the clamps installing but at $50 I’m not willing to try again

[Vinson]

3-4 years ago I bought a set of those seals for my panhead. It had the o-rings on it but when I did a valve job and addressed some oil leaks I tried out that fna seal kit. Put them according to directions, which were pretty vague in tightening, had to swap back to o-rings by late may, maybe 700-1000 miles later tops. O-rings have been on since with no problems. Looking at the seals when I removed them it did look like the clamp cut the band. I probably over tightened the clamps installing but at $50 I’m not willing to try again

Had a similar situation with the FNA seals. Caveman'd my first set and tore them to shit. Came back for round 2 with a lighter touch and better carb support. Been going strong for a couple years now.

[Tattooo]

It may be dumb, I thought it was weird myself, I don't know though. With all the aftermarket shit specifically related to the intake seals, i went with how i received it. I've never toyed with older bikes and am learning as I go between the manual, how it was put together when I received it, and any research I can about the parts I've found on it.

I'll buy any parts that are crucial, I'm not trying to be cheap, I'm just trying to return this bike back to road worthy.

EVEN new bikes have an intake seal......... Of some kind............

So you say you have a manual?????? Did you not see the Orings in the manual?????

[Thatguyshawn]

EVEN new bikes have an intake seal......... Of some kind............

So you say you have a manual?????? Did you not see the Orings in the manual?????

Get the fuck out of my thread if you can't read what I've written and just want to be an ass.

Like I said, I'm going between the manual and how this shit was put together. A rubber boot with an aircraft clamp is a pretty effective seal in most other situations.

To everyone else, thank you, next step is drain the tanks, tear the carb/manifold off and get some pictures to at least get into my local shop so I can get some proper shit sorted.

[Tattooo]

Get the fuck out of my thread if you can't read what I've written and just want to be an ass.

Like I said, I'm going between the manual and how this shit was put together. A rubber boot with an aircraft clamp is a pretty effective seal in most other situations.

To everyone else, thank you, next step is drain the tanks, tear the carb/manifold off and get some pictures to at least get into my local shop so I can get some proper shit sorted.

I did read what you wrote......... What I read was it didn't have seals and you thought that was odd but you put it back together without them anyways...... That's why I asked what the manual said to do.....

And yes a rubber boot does work.........

[Thatguyshawn]

Tanks/carb/manifold are off.

[69Glide]

I think that you need to verify that you have the correct length intake manifold for the cylinder length. Since this is a 98" stroker motor it probably has taller cylinders - if it was an S&S kit it would come with the correct manifold. There are other ways to build a 98" motor as well - so it is vital for you to verify the correct intake manifold. Once you get it apart some pics of the heads, manifold including the number cast in the manifold, and the cylinder bases may help identify what you need. It's always an adventure working on these old motors - you never know what he previous owners did until you eyeball it.

This is still assuming that you have a leaking manifold - you may have other problems as well but the manifold must be unfucked before you can proceed or you will be chasing your tail.

Good luck with it.


Edit - just missed you pics, let me do some checking on correct manifold length. You do have a band type manifold and O-ring heads. Some folks run that combination and do OK - I don't set motors up like that myself. I've had excellent results with correct manifold matched to the heads, correct seal set up (bands with correct clamps or O-Rings with aircraft clamps), and a carb support. They don't leak if set up correctly.

[69Glide]

This motor should have 5.530" (0.200" taller than stock) length cylinders and should use a size 235 O-ring intake manifold. You may want to verify this with S&S but this is the info I have.

Good luck with it.

[Tattooo]

Tanks/carb/manifold are off.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]101875[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]101877[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]101876[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]101878[/ATTACH]

You have to run that type boot.... That intake isn't made for Orings....

Pics sure are nice.....

Like 69 said see how much of a gap you have between the intake and head without the boots...........

But for sure you need new ones,,,,

[Thatguyshawn]

I think that you need to verify that you have the correct length intake manifold for the cylinder length. Since this is a 98" stroker motor it probably has taller cylinders - if it was an S&S kit it would come with the correct manifold. There are other ways to build a 98" motor as well - so it is vital for you to verify the correct intake manifold. Once you get it apart some pics of the heads, manifold including the number cast in the manifold, and the cylinder bases may help identify what you need. It's always an adventure working on these old motors - you never know what he previous owners did until you eyeball it.

This is still assuming that you have a leaking manifold - you may have other problems as well but the manifold must be unfucked before you can proceed or you will be chasing your tail.

Good luck with it.


Edit - just missed you pics, let me do some checking on correct manifold length. You do have a band type manifold and O-ring heads. Some folks run that combination and do OK - I don't set motors up like that myself. I've had excellent results with correct manifold matched to the heads, correct seal set up (bands with correct clamps or O-Rings with aircraft clamps), and a carb support. They don't leak if set up correctly.

I cant find any casting numbers on the jugs, but they are taller jugs, not spacers.

[69Glide]

I may have given you bad info - I realize now that you said Super G, the manifold size # (length) is likely the same but the part # may be different. Please verify with S&S tech before spending any money.

Sorry for any confusion.

[69Glide]

I cant find any casting numbers on the jugs, but they are taller jugs, not spacers.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]101879[/ATTACH]

Mostly trying to determine if they are S&S cylinders - from what I can see they likely are but verify. If they are S&S they will have "S&S 80R" and "S&S 80F" cast into the cylinder base at the center of the "V".

[Thatguyshawn]

Mostly trying to determine if they are S&S cylinders - from what I can see they likely are but verify. If they are S&S they will have "S&S 80R" and "S&S 80F" cast into the cylinder base at the center of the "V".

I couldn't find any S&S80 cast into the cylinders. Just the F and R. I dont know how precisely the manifold is supposed to fit, but it does fit with very little gap all around the runners.