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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by gorgeous View Post

    Also, Jesse, I put the case studs in the bottom, but it seems they were pretty loose fit. Was this made for oversize studs?
    Not to my knowledge ....
    I like using Colony due to them having an abundance of interference ...
    More so than Oem studs ...
    I use a Jims tool made just for installing those
    With the case warmed up to 200/250 degrees and the use of a tee handle, they find their home right fast ...



    On the countershaft endplay ..
    There are a few diff. washers made for the left side that helps with getting into the range of washers for the right side ...
    .050", .055", .060" which is the std size, .065" and .070"

    Also I install the C/S low gear on the shaft then take a measurement ...
    The way your doing it may give you a false reading ...

    " I popped the sprocket off so I can run my 25t instead of the 23t that it came with. I took 4th out and I guess this box uses the torrington bearing rather than the rollers. There was no thrust washer on 4th gear? Looking at the shovel manual, there isn't one there. This is correct yeah? Everything else on the mainshaft went together smoothly. I forgot to bring my dial indicator home, so I'm going to double check the endplay this afternoon."

    That's the way that case is made like the Oem 77 and up cases..
    No longer all the work in line-lapping the case race for running fit of the loose bearings and dialing in the fourth gear endplay is needed ..
    It's predetermined in design to save the Service Tech a bunch of work...

    Fourth gear is NOT interchangeable with the 76 and back fourth gears in that case ...
    Last edited by Dragstews; 02-24-2020 at 12:08 PM.

  2. #42
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    Yeah, I used brand new colony studs. Not too worried about that.

    As for the countershaft, I just removed the low gear for the picture. Measurements are the same either way. .044 at the widest point. That would require a washer thickness of .035ish yeah? I guess I could get the washer surface ground for the thickness, but it's still seems out of spec. Still more worried about it not being the same front to back? Should I torque the nut on the countershaft down and remeasure? Can't see that making any more space in there.

  3. #43
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    I would run an Overbearing setup from I think it's bare Knuckle choppers with those main drive bearings. $110 shipped when I bought mine.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by gorgeous View Post
    Yeah, I used brand new colony studs. Not too worried about that.

    As for the countershaft, I just removed the low gear for the picture. Measurements are the same either way. .044 at the widest point. That would require a washer thickness of .035ish yeah? I guess I could get the washer surface ground for the thickness, but it's still seems out of spec. Still more worried about it not being the same front to back? Should I torque the nut on the countershaft down and remeasure? Can't see that making any more space in there.
    What is the size of the left side washer that in it .. ??

  5. #45
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    Left side being the primary side/outer bearing retainer side? it was .060 if I remember correctly. Its a c-hair proud of the bearing race of the hi gear side. Both inner bearing retainer washers were .060 as well.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Fourth gear is NOT interchangeable with the 76 and back fourth gears in that case ...
    Are you refering to just the mainshaft 4th? The later style having been cut on the backside for the bearing? I'm using the one that came from the case. Just wanted to double check the absence of the thrust washer.

    OR are you saying that the mainshaft 4th isnt compatible with the early style countershaft cluster gear....? because then that would be a problem....because those are not the parts that I have.

  7. #47
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    Think we're singing out of a different Hymn book ...

    "Are you refering to just the mainshaft 4th? The later style having been cut on the backside for the bearing? I'm using the one that came from the case. Just wanted to double check the absence of the thrust washer."

    You must use the gear that came with the case ...

    It don't use a thrust washer to set up the endplay as in the 76-back do..
    The whole backside of the gear rubs on the case wall ... It has been set to clearance by the manufacturer .. (Plug & Play deal)
    Last edited by Dragstews; 02-24-2020 at 1:11 PM.

  8. #48
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    Ok cool. We're on the same page. I thought for whatever reason you were saying that it wasn't compatible with the older style cluster gear. I was just double checking. I'm using the gear that came with the case. The only reason I had it off was because I'm going to use my larger sprocket, not the one that came with the case.

    Back to the original issue, what do you think I should do about the countershaft endplay issue?

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by gorgeous View Post

    Back to the original issue, what do you think I should do about the countershaft endplay issue?
    I would play around with the left side washer ...

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    I would play around with the left side washer ...
    There’s only about .005 to play with on the left side. I think it might be a little more complicated than that. I sent you an email.

  11. #51
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    You can gain .010" by going to the .050" thick left side washer ...

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    I would play around with the left side washer ...
    old thread, but on the countershaft thrust washer on the first gear side? you should have 7-12 thousandths between the thrust and case.

    also idk about aftermarket cases but factory harley trans cases studs are interference fit as to help seal up the case. The studs and the case are the same thread pattern but the threads on the studs are just slightly out of tolerance as to seals the threads as they tighten. They shouldnt feel loose.
    Last edited by shovel625; 10-21-2022 at 6:54 AM.

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