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  1. #21
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    Hi DB-take it this new fangled paint ain't flammable like paint of old?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoomBuggy View Post

    That is a nice looking booth Doom.......

    But I don't see how you can paint it in such a confined space....... That would be nice for a part 10 times smaller than an oil tank.......

    But that's just me what do I know.........

  3. #23
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    I am sure this stuff is flammable at some point, but the concentrations are pretty low with small parts like this. A sealed motor fan would be optimal. I will be cracking the overhead as I apply each coat, which is what I did last time. But you are right, this fan is not the best way to do this.

    When I put this together I took my spray gun and made sure I could get around the top on the piece. If this works out I plan to use it for spraying guitar bodies ( more on that much later on. ). I figure you could get gas tanks and oil tanks in this one, but not fenders or frames . As I only plan to repaint the sides I am hopeful it will work out. If not we will all learn together ;-).

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoomBuggy View Post
    I am sure this stuff is flammable at some point,
    Not really at all....... Almost NONE it's like 0.0001 flammable......... Nothing to even consider............

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoomBuggy View Post
    When I put this together I took my spray gun and made sure I could get around the top on the piece.


    So you turn the tank as you paint it?????????

  6. #26
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    Correct, the stand allows me to move it around easily. I used a turntable under the stands when I originally did it, but since this piece is so light I will just spin it as I spray it.

    If I was laying the whole thing in a heavy metallic or a real candy I would want to move around rather then having start and stop as I move the piece. When using a heavy metallic you want the flake to lay in the same direction and on a real candy it is critical not to have overlap from starting and stopping. Solids and light metallics you can get away with a lot.

    By the way, I appreciate all the questions and comments, that was what I was hoping for on this thread, as I said in the beginning, my way is not necessarily the right or best way and I am open to learning as well.
    Last edited by DoomBuggy; 03-01-2020 at 9:56 AM.

  7. #27
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    Last night I spotted a couple of holes I found. The way I work, major repairs are done with "Tiger's Hair" which is just shredded fiberglass in a gel, very tough stuff, this is followed by good Bondo, a bit softer and easier to finish, and then finally glazing putty to catch the tiny imperfections, it is very soft.

    By doing it this way you are not constantly over sanding and having to reapply any particular step in the process.

    After I finished that I took stock of my supplies and I need to order some Intercoat and Reducer so we will be on hold for a few days while I wait for that.

    I like the Ever-Glaze putty, most auto paint stores carry it or the Bondo brand which I have also used in the past.

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    What I had in the cabinet was a bit past it's shelf life so it did not go on as smooth as it should have.

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    But no matter a couple of minutes with some 120 paper and it is smooth as a baby's bottom.

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    Last edited by DoomBuggy; 03-02-2020 at 2:21 PM.

  8. #28
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    Wow-I wonder where your attachments went?

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoghead View Post
    Wow-I wonder where your attachments went?
    The same place the one I did of his I guess??????

  10. #30
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    Maybe now....

  11. #31
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    They're back...

  12. #32
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    I came up with this for the exhaust side of the oil tank, I wanted the FLH designation on there, but also wanted to incorporate Art Deco sensibilities into it. The text and design will be in the Root Beer color against a black background

    I have an idea for the other side of the tank, but have not drawn it out yet. Really having a hard time getting any bike time right now.

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  13. #33
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    Tis stylish! Will you get a mask printed?

  14. #34
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    Yes I picked up a vinyl cutter as a tool for my retirement side gig. It is going to open up a lot of possibilities for painting now that my hands shake a little too much to pull straight lines with my pinstriping brushes. It should turn this into a nice project.

  15. #35
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    The plan was to mask off the tank, prime it, put on the base coat, and make the stencil this weekend. Ran into a few minor glitches. But let's talk about what did go well.

    When I sanded I ground down the areas I wanted to repaint and then on the area where the new will overlap the old I just sanded down to really scuff up the clear coat. Supposedly this primer will bite into that. So next I gathered up my masking supplies:
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    First step was to wash the tank down well with lacquer thinner, you want to pull any remaining grease from the areas that you will mask so the tape will stick well. The rag should be wet but not dripping and keep turning it to a clean spot as you work around the surface. The razor knife allows me to trim the tape where it meets the upper and lower lip, I want to get fresh paint on those areas as they were a little dinged up from my ham handed disassembly.

    Next take your time and mask off any areas you don't want painted, overlap along the edges to build a stiffer surface less likely to blow back when spraying on the primer and base coat. I also printed an image of outline of the design work. My first pass was too wide and would have been covered in part by the exhaust pipe, the version in the picture is just right.

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    Next I gathered up supplies to prime the tank with. I am a firm believer in staying within a system. If you like Dupont use all Dupont, in my case I like House of Kolor and so the whole system is HOK. Notice the post sanding cleaner. This is great prep, HOWEVER it does not cut through grease well. SO first step is Lacquer thinner, allow that to evaporate, then go over the areas to be primed with the cleaner. USE A SUIT, these things are really cheap and it will keep the HOK solvents from penetrating your skin, I blew it off when I did a quick coat of clear and my skin crawled for hours afterwards. Also use a good respirator and wear googles, blow back is a reality, be prepared for it. With the HOK system you choose a reducer based on the temp in your work area. Also when you shoot primer you want it to set up slower so the paint has a good chance to adhere to the substrata. THe gun is an old Badger touch up gun. I really like the control and I don't like to spray primer through my good DeVilbiss gun. That one will come out when we start to shoot color.
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    The other thing that makes a huge difference in your finished product is clean air. I always purge my compressor first, amazing how much moisture gets in there. The I use two filters one before the regulator and a second afterwards. I want as much moisture out of the air as possible, You don't have to go with big dollar items, especially if you double up on them.
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    And here is where things went south for me. The darn temps dropped down to the 30s last night and I did not have the thermostat set high enough in the garage. At this point it will take hours for the garage to warm and more importantly it will take many hours for the tank, paint, and reducer to all come up to temp. I do not believe paint will be going on today!

    So instead I decided to take a shot at cutting my first stencil. After fussing around setting the blade depth properly and figuring out the speed and feed rates ( Hey I am back to my Bridgeport days ). I managed to get a decent pass. I learned a bunch about how to "weed" the template ( get rid of the unwanted bits ) and all in all I think this is a good first attempt.

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    I wanted to take this one and do up a metal test plate, but problem number two crept up and bit me in the ass. The way this works is you use the machine to cut out the design on the stencil material, then you weed out the parts where you want the paint to show through. Next you apply a piece of clear transfer tape, pull off the backing and apply the template . The issue was the free roll of transfer tape that came with the machine is too narrow for my design. Tomorrow I will order the right stuff.
    Last edited by DoomBuggy; 03-15-2020 at 11:37 AM.

  16. #36
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    Wow- that's interesting stuff- stay within the system is sound advice. I got micro blistering on filled areas a few years ago after color coat. I was pissed. Sanded it down and filled the 'craters' with filler putty,sanded down and repainted- it's fine years later! I can only assume because of the extent of it it wasn't random contamination, but outgassing of the filler...

  17. #37
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    So I really like this machine, but the warehouse at this place sucks the big one. I ordered the transfer tape, solvent proof stencil material and a set of their "best" blades, they got all three items wrong. Now I get to wait some more.

    On the bright side, it has been raining and cold here, even if I heat up the garage the humidity is too high to shoot black without getting fogging, so I will continue to wait.

    Argh

    At least it has been really cool watching the progress as Jesse works on my heads!

  18. #38
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    Hah-retail store staff don't seem like the brightest some days, but hey , if's employment, it's good.

    That bloom issue sucks- don't get tempted to try!

    Jesse is doing good with those heads. My friendly local engine guru managed to salvage my OEM heads. I'm blown away by the fin repair on yours!

  19. #39
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    Don't need no stinking Booth!
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    Another two days and they had water in the ditch and I would have had to move back inside.
    Dusty

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by DustyDave View Post
    Don't need no stinking Booth!
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    Another two days and they had water in the ditch and I would have had to move back inside.
    Dusty
    thats right make it werk

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