are they supposed to pivot on the parallel links or what? I have to tighten the legs real tight to get the headlight mount tight, not a problem if it's supposed to pivot but disastrous if too tight and can't pivot but is supposed to
Girder question
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are they supposed to pivot on the parallel links or what?
What make or type of girder do you have? Post good clear closeup pics of the upper linkages/ trees area.
When tightening up the nuts on the ends of the shaft, it should have free play like a springer rocker, with up to 0.003" clearance, enough that will allow free movement of the linkages, but not too much to create side slop from too much clearance.
The ideal way is to have each end of the shaft double-nutted with a jamb nut and a cap nut. Once the shaft is centered, one end with the two nuts can be locked together and the other end used to adjust proper clearance, then it is almost like adjusting bearing tension on a neck post of a glide, springer or girder...adjust nut to get clearance, then lock it with the cap nut. Note that clearance may change as the cap nut is tightened as clearance in the threads of the jamb nut is taken up - it may take a few attempts to get it right. This is assuming you have full length shafts.
See girder plan from Chopper Builders Handbook below:
Many of the older nuts on springer rockers and girder shafts had little set screws to lock them in place, like this old Fury springer rocker hardware.
Perhaps you just need to get creative with your headlight mounting, so it is attached to the bottom of the lower tree, then not subjected to the movement of the girder legs, like this guy did:
Let us know what you got so we can answer in more than just general terms, and provide directly relevant information.
This recent thread may help with identification of your girder:
Thread: Girder Front End
If buildin' old school choppers was easy, anyone could do it... ain't nobody said it's gonna be easy...Comment
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