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  1. #1
    Sugarcubes
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    Default CVP Velocity Needle

    Anyone out there replaced their needle with a CVP Velocity Needle and felt like you have less midrange power?
    I have a 1995 Evo 1340 with an EV27, stock heads, baffled pipes, the carb has a 46 low (1-3/4 turns out), 190 main and stock slide. Previously ran the stock Harley needle with the clip on the 3rd slot. The bike didn't particularly like low speed traffic and would sputter a little, no carb cough though.

    The bike ran too rich like this so I put the CVP needle in and it has definitely smoothed out the sputtering (removed it completely) and has improved the colouring of my plugs, however when I roll on the throttle hard, there isn't the same midrange seat-of the pants pull that was there before. These needles aint cheap so I'm hesitant to just take it out and throw the old one back in..I know CVP says don't shim the needle but I wonder if just one washer under it might help give it that pep again.

  2. #2
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    I actually just bought a CVP Velocity needle but I havnt installed it yet so I cant help you there. But I do know that if your old needle had the adjustable clip, its not a stock Harley needle, its aftermarket.

  3. #3

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    Two of my completely stock Sportsters were cold blooded, would take forever to warm up enough where they'd cleanly take throttle without coughing and would intermittently stumble at highway speeds even after they were fully warm. It was seriously annoying during winter time when the problems were worse. The N65 needle cured that low to mid-range leaness in both bikes.



    Quote Originally Posted by Sugarcubes View Post
    ... however when I roll on the throttle hard, there isn't the same midrange seat-of the pants pull that was there before...
    Butt-dynos are highly inaccurate. Smooth and steady power-curves don't register too well on them, they tend to sense sharp transitions so a major dip and then spike in a power curve may make a bike feel 'quick' according to the butt-dyno but in fact suffers because of that dip.

  4. #4
    Sugarcubes
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    Quote Originally Posted by vonhelmet View Post
    I actually just bought a CVP Velocity needle but I havnt installed it yet so I cant help you there. But I do know that if your old needle had the adjustable clip, its not a stock Harley needle, its aftermarket.
    I did wonder about that. The main jet had 170 stamped on it when i originally got the bike and dug into the carb, I found it a bit crazy that it wasn't running lean with that jet but then I found out it was a Dynojet main and it was really the equivalent size to a 190 Harley main jet. Maybe I will stick the old needle back in but move the clip to the 2nd notch and see how it goes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sugarcubes View Post
    I did wonder about that. The main jet had 170 stamped on it when i originally got the bike and dug into the carb, I found it a bit crazy that it wasn't running lean with that jet but then I found out it was a Dynojet main and it was really the equivalent size to a 190 Harley main jet. Maybe I will stick the old needle back in but move the clip to the 2nd notch and see how it goes.
    In my experience, the Dynojet kits for CVs SUCK! The emulsion tube included in the kit (that takes Mikuni jets) won't emulsify fuel & air properly, and the needle included does not suit the fuel curve of the carb either.

    When I encounter a carb with one of these kits installed, I go back to a stock emulsion tube, and use a Keihin jet kit for the particular motor. The Keihin jet kits have been sold by several different distributors, but they are OEM parts, inexpensive and very good. For the evo big twin, the Keihin jet kit includes an NOKG needle that is very close to the N65 needle and works very well. (Good for CVs on shovels as well.) I find either the .45 or .48 intermediate jet included, and an idle mix screw setting of 2 1/2 - 3 turns out will usually clean up the off-idle response. For a big cam or for some pipes, one or two Mikuni washers under the needle may be necessary.

    That's my approach, FWIW. I've done dozens and dozens of these carbs. A very good carb, and very flexible in application.

    Jim

  6. #6
    Sugarcubes
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    yeah they aren't the best kits. In the meantime I have put the DJ needle back in albeit on the 2nd needle clip rather than the 3rd and it seems to have brought a bit of the midrange pull back. I do have a stock emulsion tube in my shed of hoarded parts so will have a play this weekend and see how it with the CVP needle compares

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    Dynojet kits work if you follow the directions

    Dynojet recommends drilling out the slide for certain applications. Yours is not one of them. Hard to drill a hole back to stock...

    Dynojets slide spring is too light for anything but chicken wing WOT. Put the stock spring back in before you ditch the new needle

    If you can find a "medium" spring or an undrilled slide, you'll be closer too street drivability.

    And their emulsion tube won't take stock jets but 190 sounds too big for an 80" Evo

    Try the new needle with a stock emulsion tube and a 175 or 180

    Good luck

  8. #8
    SamHain
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sky View Post
    Dynojet kits work if you follow the directions

    Dynojet recommends drilling out the slide for certain applications. Yours is not one of them. Hard to drill a hole back to stock...

    Dynojets slide spring is too light for anything but chicken wing WOT. Put the stock spring back in before you ditch the new needle

    If you can find a "medium" spring or an undrilled slide, you'll be closer too street drivability.

    And their emulsion tube won't take stock jets but 190 sounds too big for an 80" Evo

    Try the new needle with a stock emulsion tube and a 175 or 180

    Good luck
    A little jb weld makes drilling slides back to stock pretty simple.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SamHain View Post
    A little jb weld makes drilling slides back to stock pretty simple.
    Hate to recommend JB as it could become dislodged and hold the throttle plate open.

    Solder is my go to for downsizing small holes in carbs

  10. #10
    SamHain
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sky View Post
    Hate to recommend JB as it could become dislodged and hold the throttle plate open.

    Solder is my go to for downsizing small holes in carbs
    Yeah, whatever works for you. Iíve got thousands of miles on a jb slide right now. I always figure solder is just glue also.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sky View Post
    Solder is my go to for downsizing small holes in carbs

    Mine too........ I've used it in Holley jets for years..... JB weld???? I'm not sure....... To each his own.....

  12. #12
    Sugarcubes
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sky View Post
    Dynojet kits work if you follow the directions

    Dynojet recommends drilling out the slide for certain applications. Yours is not one of them. Hard to drill a hole back to stock...

    Dynojets slide spring is too light for anything but chicken wing WOT. Put the stock spring back in before you ditch the new needle

    If you can find a "medium" spring or an undrilled slide, you'll be closer too street drivability.

    And their emulsion tube won't take stock jets but 190 sounds too big for an 80" Evo

    Try the new needle with a stock emulsion tube and a 175 or 180

    Good luck
    This one already had the DJ kit fitted when I bought it but the slide is not drilled out and is stock. Good point on the spring, I will check it out. I tried running a 180 but the EV27 cam did not like that and it would bog down at WOT. Andrews recommend a 190 main with the EV27, I put it back in and it pulls hard.

    Ive put the DJ needle back in on the second clip but put a thin shim so its halfway between the 2nd and 3rd slot and it seems to have sorted things for now.

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  14. #14

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    JB Weld is surprisingly good stuff. I used it on an experimental/mule motor to try different port shapes, fill in a hogged out port with JB Weld and give it the desired shape then refine the shape with a die grinder and run it on the dyno to see the effect the shape had... never had any JB Weld break loose and get sucked into the motor. It was a dicey experiment but a lot easier than constantly refilling the port with aluminum weld and reshaping that but I ended up impressed with the stuff and it's ability to handle heat and cool-down cycles when bonded to an aluminum head.

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