The AMF FXS Rebuild Project Video Series

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  • jcrubin
    Member
    • Dec 2018
    • 93

    #31
    Before getting fully underway with part 28 I'd decided that the Rear brake line had to go, it was simply too dangerous. Id measured out the size and ordered a replacement line, adding along with it the correct bends to accommodate the forward controls. Id actually got the bends first and then measured the lines against them for a good fit. The downward angled piece int he rear ensured adequate clearance at the transmission area.

    I was finally able to install my Twintec pulling from storage, only for it to break upon installation. The folks at Twintek gave me an RMA price for a new one even though it was out of warentee for years so it was greatly appreciated. While waiting on shipping i had other things to do.

    Including:

    The starter relay connector was garbage, and I replaced it pin for pin with a new one.

    Turns out the rubber mount at the speedometer is a special part, a one-off, and , it broke whilst removing. Mine was also different requiring modification as received, but it turned out nice.

    The Oil pan trim screws were added

    When the Ignition arrived all of these small tasks were out of the way. The wiring of the ignition as well as the coil, and most of the other wiring will need to be done at this time. The coil was re-tested before installation. All ignition wiring was then accomplished. A nice chrome outer cover finishes the coil off.

    A new battery will also be installed. Though everything was pre-staged with the old battery. The regulator is also installed at this time. As the battery was topping off, the rear lamp was completely redone.

    Finally in the smoke testing, only one bad connection was found and repaired. The cluster was added for testing as well.

    The timing hole is opened to find TDC on compression. This is also annotated on the stator cover once found. The ignition is turned anti clockwise until the light is on, rotating till off then locked down, staticly timed.

    The project is finished off with the installation of the battery cover.

    Last edited by jcrubin; 06-03-2022, 5:16 PM.

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    • jcrubin
      Member
      • Dec 2018
      • 93

      #32
      Chapter 29 takes the project to installation of the intake manifold, the setup of the carb as well as an S&S stealth Air kit. I chose this kit so I could put on a stock harley air filter cover and not a mee-too tear drop S&S cover.

      I had these old two piece clamps, that I did not have a lot of luck with so I went with a different setup on the manifold. The S&S ones Are better and I found them on JP cycels for 16$. To my surprise it was 16$ each!!! I found the distributor for these clams and got them for half price.

      DIXON Stainless Steel TBC238 2.38 ID on Amazon

      While waiting on the clamp, I snuck in the low side chain tensioner work....

      I had to get a new manifold as I had the old O ring manifold. Using a type C bit I ported It for VOES. The Rubber rings were per-treated with Jacks 327. The manifold was installed with the clamps centered checking for crimping. A fitting was assembled between the barb fitting and the VOES.

      The carb went back on the bench to check the Jets, I had a 68/295, I replaced the 68 with a 72.

      Again, the S&S stealth kit was purchased as to not reuse the ugly ass tear drop air filter cover. I follow the assembly instructions, there were no issues doing so. The installation of the carb mount necessitated a longer case bolt. Another trip to Ace solved the issue. I left some of the thread on the new bolt for a clutch cable support. Due to the carb mount, one of the carb bolts is also too short, also requiring a slightly longer bolt from Ace hardware.

      The carb bolted right on with a new o-ring, and the throttle cable was connected. This is followed by the mount for the air filter with the choke level. The overflow tube added thereafter. This is followed by the new air filter secured with two bolts.A special chrome beveled hex screw was purchased at ace and the air filter was slightly countersunk, all this so my original air filter would perfectly fit like it was stock.

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      • jcrubin
        Member
        • Dec 2018
        • 93

        #33
        Chapter 30 brings the project to a final checklist before the priming and timing. Ill start from back to front from my list, the first task is the chain alignment and tension. For this task Ill be trying out a new tool to see how well it works. The chain guard will be removed to make things easier. Firstly, I did want to see if the chain slack was uniform along the chain which it was, then I adjusted a ballpark slack measurement before installing the device. It provides for a fine view for minor adjustments of the rear end to show exactly when the rear wheel is aligned to the transmission.

        With the alignment done the rear was torques down, and the alignment checked for shifting. The tool worked out very nicely. The chain guard is cleaned and reinstalled though I would like to replace it. For now though its onward to Brake bleeding, starting with the rear brakes. With that completed the rear brakes feel very good.

        I move onward to the transmission topping off with 80W90 using a level on the frame in conjunction with the level screw. One bolt loose on the clutch arm, mom stopped by so I let her fix it.

        I never liked how the license plate sit so I modified the bracket to lower it about 1.2 inch. I them moved forward to the front brakes, and it was apparent that they were leaking bad on the high side needing a removal and rebuild.

        Disassembled on the bench, it is cleaned and reassembled with a new seal kit. Reinstalled, the front brake system was gravity bled and then with the pneumatic system on both sides.

        A good amount of stuff done, the goal is to finish the checklist in the next chapter.

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        • jcrubin
          Member
          • Dec 2018
          • 93

          #34
          Chapter 31 concludes the checklist starting with the installation of the inner primary. The gasket is first greased to be removable, then the bearing for the starter Bendix is greased along with the thrust washer. Guide puns set up the installation, its an exercise to get everything lined up with the gasket as the first few bolts go in. These, in aluminum are tightened by hand in a cross pattern. The protective tape on the inner primary is finally removed. The covers For the primary are then installed except for the timing cover.

          Last time my kick stand rubber fell off, this time I'm going to clean the surface with a Dremel before re-installation. With the cover installed the kickstand assembly can be re-installed.

          Next the exhaust pipes were pulled from storage, cleaned up and inspected. The ends cleaned like new are dressed with grey RTV along with new exhaust gaskets, this has always worked for me. Ive never been a big fan of the single bolt system.

          Following this I was simply going to drop in the oil filter and add oil but the cap had seized up but was able to be repaired. After fixing it I had added 3 quarts until I could determine the level after priming.

          The chain was then lubed, using a cardboard wedge so I wouldn't make a mess. I used more than usual since the chain was completely stripped and de-greased.

          With the tyre pressure checked, I recorded the ignition settings and then readjusted them for a special config to set up timing . Following this the seat was installed.

          Finally Lilly, my special assistant installed the starter onto the bike. Completing all tasks on the checklist.


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          • jcrubin
            Member
            • Dec 2018
            • 93

            #35
            Finally arriving at chapter 32 where we are ready to hear the engine run for the first time. Before doing so however the oil system must be primed properly. Id like to be sure that we have proper lubrication after all of the work that has been done I don't want to ruin it on the first fire.

            Taking the return hose off of the oil pan and replacing it with a glass jar will provide a good indicator for success. All of the sections of the oil pump and tappet filters are opened up and a few pushes on the kicker are given. Walking away I let gravity do its thing. 30 minutes later I come back to see how things are progressing.

            Pushing the kicker I can see as oil fills one passage, I close it in order, wait and test and move onto the next passage. This continues until all passages are closed. At this point the electric starter should show a few pounds after a few seconds of running. This is an indication that its safe to run for several more seconds until it reaches the jar, and the unit is primed. Everything is re-assembled.

            With no need to Push the kickstarter any further the plugs are re-installed along with the cables, the gap, measured at .040. Now the fuel bottle can be connected to the carb I add some E0 gasoline to the bottle.

            One last inspection and a test of the carb settings, I set up my flir camera on the low side, were going to run the bike once as a smoke test and quick setup. Its amazing how quick it heats up when its a new build. A quick dial in and its turned off. This is followed by an inspection with a complete cool down before Jason arrives.

            During the cool down I take the time to clean up the rear type and other odds and ends, As well as a full inspection.

            Later that afternoon, with Jason stationed at the low side the bike was run again to set up the timing. He had the light and called out the direction as I set it on the high side. The moment the timing was set, the bike was shut down. The settings on the Bike were set back to the correct running mode. All the remaining covers were then re-installed.

            The gas tanks then came out of storage and were cleaned. Minor rust inside was mitigated with Ospho. The fuel valve was however replaced. With the tanks ready, they were mounted, along with the gauge pod and bib. Completing the Build.

            Time to take it on the Road and seat the rings, but that's for another episode....

            Comment

            • ExplodingCoffinEmporium
              Senior Member
              • Oct 2016
              • 357

              #36
              You had my wife and I both dying with the “my beautiful assistant stopped by to help with installing the kick starter”. Great video.

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              • jcrubin
                Member
                • Dec 2018
                • 93

                #37
                Originally posted by ExplodingCoffinEmporium
                You had my wife and I both dying with the “my beautiful assistant stopped by to help with installing the kick starter”. Great video.
                She has been very helpful throughout the build.

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                • thecarfarmer
                  Senior Member
                  • Dec 2016
                  • 191

                  #38
                  Man, really (REALLY) like how this bike turned out

                  Absolutely bitchin

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                  • drivermark
                    Senior Member
                    • May 2015
                    • 127

                    #39
                    I can't tell how much your videos on the transmission helped when I rebuilt mine, Thank you very much this series has been very helpful.

                    Comment

                    • jcrubin
                      Member
                      • Dec 2018
                      • 93

                      #40
                      Today is the day!! The lowrider comes off the lift, ready for the ring seating ride. Heat cycles were sufficient during the initial carb setup and timing. The bike will be brought under load in a safe area with sufficient pulls and releases to get the rings seated correctly.

                      Jason has the honor of installing the last piece, the bell, before we get underway.

                      This is winter here in the 70's, great weather for a break-in

                      On site, the engine is warmed up and the brought up to speed starting the pulls for the engine. I didn't beat it up, remembering were testing an engine, a transmission and drivetrain too. The operation of both the engine and transmission was smooth. After several pull events the bike was shut down and trailer-ed back. There needs to be an inspection at some point to make sure everything is ok, this isnt being done on a bench. I don't want to do 20 miles to find out I had a major failure all along.

                      A short list of issues found is immediately constructed and addressed.

                      Back out the next day for 3rd gear pulls completing the rung seating and 25 miles of non constant speed driving. Back on the lift...

                      5 Issues were found for correction. All which would be repaired as the base and head bolt torque would be inspected. Not torques, inspected; and yes, much work and disassembly for a bolt check but necessary.

                      All pushrods were removed, the shift linkage, oil gauge , fuel line, outer primary cover, and the clutch cable, as well as half of the carb and its bottom mount. This made room for the torque wrench for inspection.

                      Once the work was completed, the oil change was done, i realized the oil plug leaks because the gasket was wrong, ill need to fabricate something and address what appears to be a leaking fuel valve, ill leave this for another episode, The master cylinder doesn't appear to be holding up either.

                      Comment

                      • thecarfarmer
                        Senior Member
                        • Dec 2016
                        • 191

                        #41
                        Heck, it always goes together without any shakedown on the Discovery Channel...

                        Actually, THIS is the kind of video I like: the one that shows me where the bulldog sleeps. Hell of a lot more educational when you get to see what the hell to look out for

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