campbell hausfeld 105 welder

[rebel]

does anyone have a campbell hausfeld 105 mig / flux welder ,i need some info on how to install the welding gun ,a couple years ago i kinked my feed cable and removed the entire gun ,at the time i couldnt find a replacement ,finally ordered one a couple months ago and forgot how to install, and been searching the web for info ,i even called campbell hausfeld they only had the owners manual which i already had ,

[farmall]

Those generic machines are pretty much like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0va1jflmqic

[rebel]

farmall my on welder the only thing that hooks up the way that one does is the gas line,i have looked at images and videos all over the web and still no luck,but thanks for the link ,i watched some of that Johne9000 stick welding videos and borrowed my sons stick welder so i can try and finish up my crank stand ,when i get it finished i will post more pictures on the other post

[farmall]

How about posting clear well lit pics of both sides and a top view? Then post pics of the wires on the gun and of the trigger switch wiring, (Unscrew the gun housing to expose those.) If I can't figure it out the pics will help if you post on welding forums like Weldingweb.

If it were in front of me I could probably fix it quickly but it's harder to do over the internet. There isn't much to installing the gun. Insert bare section of gun liner (I don't know what your gun looks like) into the clamp in the feeder getting the open end as close to the rollers as practical, say 1/8" or so to avoid bird nesting. Connect gas line, find hot lead and trigger connections and you're done. There shouldn't be a lot of spare connectors in the welder.

Blade connectors typically used for the trigger leads leave marks on their corresponding connector. Show us what you're working with.

[rebel]

yea i understand where the liner and gas line go, these are the pictures i have tonight will get more in the morning ,i have a post on weldingweb,i will post pics on there to,

[rebel]

[farmall]

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[farmall]

Put a voltmeter across the disconnected red and white leads. What do you see?

They appear to be control leads for the wire feed motor. Does one go to that motor? If so, briefly bridging them/touching them should cause the wire feeder to rotate with the welder powered on. If it does, you can connect those to the trigger leads on the gun (blue/brown). Polarity doesn't matter on the trigger switch.

Are they the only loose wires? Show where they are attached.

I'm not seeing a post inside the welder for the guns hot lead. If you look back from the two panel quick disconnects that may help.

How does your user manual say to change gun polarity?

I'm not responsible for letting out any magic smoke so take your time.

Remember most of those shitboxes ran a "hot" gun with no contactor so if the welder is powered the hot lead is likely hot.

[rebel]

to change polarity remove cable from positive and plug into negative on front of machine, i hope this picture shows, there is two black wires together and a red wire these go to the wire feed motor i just unhooked those when i removed that side of the cover to look and see if i could find someplace to hook the guns hot lead

[farmall]

If you have to swap one lead to change polarity that means the other female panel connector should have power too. The machine is odd because it apparently switches power using those connectors instead of just swapping polarity internally. Most owners leave them FCAW forever which is probably why that model went out of production since it's slightly more complex with for little result. It's more convenient than an internal swap though. That design means any hot lead would either dangle out of the gun cable and be plugged in up front (weird) or be connected internally to a line feeding the polarity you want for the gun. The panel connectors should have eyelets on the back and may have room for your hot lead eyelet if the threaded section is long enough.

Electrically it doesn't matter. You can buy the matching male QDs online if you want to swap but I wouldn't put any money in a machine worth that little.

You can connect two cables, one to positive and one to negative panel socket, and attempt to strike an arc on some scrap. That proves the panel sockets have power. If you don't have two cables you could shove a clean rod or bolt into one socket and use the ground cable to hold a stick rod or another bolt to strike an arc briefly between them. Arc proves they are connected to power.

FCAW filler wires are run DCEN (DC Electrode Negative) so if running flux core you want the hot lead from the gun to be negative and your ground clamp positive.
If running MIG (FCAW isn't MIG) you use shielding gas and want DCEP (Electrode Positive).

Do you have a drawing in your users manual showing the original external gun connection or gun?