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  1. #1

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    Default rebuild harley crank

    has anyone got a homemade jig for disassembly of the crank and rods ,looking for suggestions or if someone has the rowe jig for sale

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    If you can fab you can copy the fixture and use Grade 8 studs as locator pins. Pretty version: https://www.klsupply.com/harley-tool...re-37-1860.asp

    For how high the Rowe style (patents probably long expired) setup goes for I'd copy one if I didn't own a metal lathe. If you don't have a lathe I'd get one before a truing stand.

    If you can find a cheap/dead old metal or wood lathe unsuitable for machining and with Morse tapers in head and tailstock (to fit dead centers) that would work for checking runout. If you can find just an old tailstock you could fab the rest. Dial indicators and mag bases are reasonable.

    There isn't much to them: https://retrocycle.com/products/2434..._trueing_stand

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    Quote Originally Posted by rebel View Post
    has anyone got a homemade jig for disassembly of the crank and rods ,looking for suggestions or if someone has the rowe jig for sale
    Get the nut's off, and drop it from waist high on the cement garage floor. That will bust it apart.
    Guy on Craigslist had one for sale, think he wanted $1,100.. Not bad, but if you don't do alot, best try and get a shop to true em.

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    They go less than 1100 new (see link) but if you are only truing one ya may as well ship the bottom end to Dragstews or other skilled wrench who has the tools and the bench stock of small parts needed to knock out the work quickly and economically.

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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    They go less than 1100 new (see link) but if you are only truing one ya may as well ship the bottom end to Dragstews or other skilled wrench who has the tools and the bench stock of small parts needed to knock out the work quickly and economically.
    Here's a sageful solution, as for the pricing, the older ones command more. But pay heed to Farmall..

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    You can copy a Rowe Jig pretty easily. I used an old fly wheel and some grade 8 cap screws. You need a stout vice and a good heavy dead blow hammer. Pieces of channel iron or heavy angle iron you can make good holding fixtures. Use your head, don't break anything.

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    I used an old fly wheel and some grade 8 cap screws.
    I like that. Good use for my old flywheel doorstop.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nmaineron View Post
    You can copy a Rowe Jig pretty easily. I used an old fly wheel and some grade 8 cap screws. You need a stout vice and a good heavy dead blow hammer. Pieces of channel iron or heavy angle iron you can make good holding fixtures. Use your head, don't break anything.
    Post up a pic, share some game.

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    To hold the flywheels for breaking the nuts loose and tightening I just wrap an old seatbelt around one wheel and tighten both ends of the seat belt - ratchet strap in the vice.

    Just torqued 100# before this picture. This was a chunk of old ratchet strap from a semi trailer.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Dusty

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    Nice how strap protects the assembly! I like where this thread is going.

    as for the pricing, the older ones command more.
    Since all they do is hold two dead centers in place and the wigwags (or dial indicators if using those) instantly tell if adjustment is needed even a Harbor Freight version (too bad there isn't one) would be fine. They don't cost shit to make though shipping is expensive. Wigwags were the least expensive practical indicator option and don't need calibration but I've not seen them available standalone and dial indicators are plentiful. (Avoid digital indicators for runout checks as they complicate visualization.)

    This homebuilt stand is simple, dirt cheap and slick:

    http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.p...56&postcount=3
    Last edited by farmall; 01-06-2019 at 2:49 PM.

  11. #11

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    thanks for all the good info guys, right now i just have a shovelhead and evo to build ,so i will be doing it myself ,Farmall that kl supply fixturelooks like something i could make thanks,and the truing stand i will buy later hopefully i will find one at a good deal ,i have seen some wood lathes and metal lathes with bad motors or missing tools on market place for a couple hundred dollars ,and thought about trying one for the truing stand. Buddha i dont think i will be dropping them on purpose, Nmaineron i would like to see pics, Dustydave i like that idea i dont understand how you tightend the strap ,i alittle slow

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    Quote Originally Posted by rebel View Post
    thanks for all the good info guys, right now i just have a shovelhead and evo to build ,so i will be doing it myself ,Farmall that kl supply fixturelooks like something i could make thanks,and the truing stand i will buy later hopefully i will find one at a good deal ,i have seen some wood lathes and metal lathes with bad motors or missing tools on market place for a couple hundred dollars ,and thought about trying one for the truing stand. Buddha i dont think i will be dropping them on purpose, Nmaineron i would like to see pics, Dustydave i like that idea i dont understand how you tightend the strap ,i alittle slow
    You get the strap as tight as you can then when you start turning the flywheel it locks right down. It will tighten even if you leave an inch or so of slack but likes to turn sideways if you leave it that loose. I usually adjusty the vice tight enough that the two straps will slide in easily. Then I wrap the strap around the wheel and slide the two ends into the vice with one hand while placing the wheel or wheels on the vice, then i pull down on the straps to hold the wheel or wheels while I let go with the hand holding the wheel and tighten shit out of the vice. then untill I'm through I just slide the wheels in and out the side. Suppose if I had the forethought to measure or mark the strap I could just start with a loop.
    Dusty

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    Here's a Fella that built a flywheel jig and truing stand on a piece of channel ....

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    Very nice job he did ... (Dale K. Gipson)

    If you was in mind of doing this, I have spoken to Dale and he said that he would make up a kit to sell ...
    He would have all the pieces cut and send it as a kit, where all that needed done was weld it up and paint it.

    How bout that chit ... ??



    .............................. ..............................
    Last edited by Dragstews; 01-07-2019 at 12:01 PM.

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    Dragstews entry wins the thread! Sweet workstation and so simple no plans needed, but a reasonable kit could sell.

    I bet kits would sell since anyone capable of using it would have zero problems putting it together. There isn't much money in parts either. About half a stick in channel etc. Much more versatile than the Rowe style and parts cost would leave room for a worthwhile markup.

    OP should save his money and do one of these or buy a kit if available. If ya buy new channel your supplier can cut pieces to size on the spot using the dimensioned pic as a guide.

    For other make crankshafts, one upright could be modded to bolt on in multiple positions.
    Last edited by farmall; 01-07-2019 at 12:26 PM.

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    Don't think a huge amount of money would be involved to build the work station..
    Dale said that less than a hundred dollars went into the materials and his time doing all the sawing, then the shipping...
    A good guess for having it arrive up on the doorstep would be around three or four hundred $$ ..??

    Seems that Dale wants me to handle the transactions, so if anybody wants to jump on this ...


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    Default Finally Fabing with a purpose............

    Save the pics for future reference,
    but I lucked out and was given two stands.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC08156.JPG  

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I just sold this one last week for $800
    Brand New, Never been used...

    One of Ed Lowe's last that he was making before he closed down his shop....

    It's been re-popped ....



    VT No: 16-0586 .. $937.73
    OEM No: 96650-30
    Truing machine features cast iron construction and is designed to true stock style fly wheels.
    For fork tube straightness checking, you must order the roller stanchions separately.
    Fits:
    All models
    Country of Origin: Imported
    Last edited by Dragstews; 01-07-2019 at 2:38 PM.

  18. #18

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    thank you for posting this Dragstews,what kind of dial indicators does he use for checking the runout/balance

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    Last edited by Dragstews; 01-07-2019 at 6:47 PM.

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    I suggest using indicators with a range "stroke") of 1" for typical shop work including truing spoked wheels.

    This Keith Rucker video is an excellent intro to the subject: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zH8I_LwhFVE

    Good indicators last a lifetime and you'll find many uses for them.

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