Shovelhead Clutch problem!!

[Dragstews]

Looks as if you have found the problem...

[Pdriskill10]

Thanks y’all! I’m
Gonna order those springs and that new kit you suggested for the pushrod! I’ll keep y’all updated!

[Tattooo]

Looks as if you have found the problem...

Isn't it great how photos can answer questions....

[Tattooo]

Thanks y’all! I’m
Gonna order those springs and that new kit you suggested for the pushrod! I’ll keep y’all updated!

Your welcome....

[Dragstews]

Isn't it great how photos can answer questions....

[farmall]

They are indeed. Back those nuts off (evenly of course) and see if you get clutch movement. You can back 'em off quite loose because the first thing to verify is your parts will move the clutch far enough to release it. Then you can work the spring issue. You can remove a spring and measure it uncompressed. Post the height and someone (probably Dragstews) with loose springs can compare (my clutches are assembled or I'd measure one).

Note to others with later Evo five speeds: Those larger bearings will fit your ball and ramp if you spotface the bearing area a few thou wider than the upgrade bearing. I did that to use a Baker bearing with a lower effort ball and ramp. It would take a machinist very little time to clamp the part on parallels in the mill vise and make the cut. The larger wafer bearing provides the actual running surfaces. Link with picks and spotface dimensions is my vtwinforum post (my nick there is casement). Installed in 2014 and still happily working in my FXR:

https://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/h...ml#post3083065

[Dragstews]

Barnett Tool & Engineering offers the clutch springs in three diff. spring rates ....

Takes a bit of playing with the installed height to find the sweet spot...
What you are after is just enough pressure to keep the clutch from slipping under full throttle in high gear..

[Sky]

The free length of the springs is not really the variable here.
Unless the OP's are sagged.

The installed height is just under an inch, per the manual.
If using aftermarket parts you also have to look at the instructions they hopefully come with.

I have seen people try to stuff too many clutch plates into a basket...

[Pdriskill10]

I always figured it was all the clutch plates go in the basket. It’s a BDL 1.5” open belt if you happen to know how many Sky. If not I can give them a call.

[Dragstews]

Wanna get rid of those coil springs and up-grade your clutch to a belleville ... ??



VT No: 18-0540
Diaphragm clutch spring pressure plate includes 5-stud clutch, diaphragm spring, pressure plate, rollers, adjustment screw, and stud nuts.
Updates old style coil spring clutch to new style diaphragm clutch for positive clutch engagement.
Fits:
Special application with open or closed primaries

[Sky]

That's a BDL basket/shell.
Uses the stock hub, bearings, plates, pressure plate and springs. Refer to your manual.
Hint, stock 68-early 84 is 4 steels 5 frictions
I like to start with a steel against that aluminum basket... Gotta knock off the dampers
And a friction against the press plate.
Even if I gotta futz with the stack
If aftermarket plates might be a diff stack height...

Full rollers intead of the caged bearings with a retainer is a great ugrade too.
A sealed bearing hub is a better upgrade, diaphragm spring or not.

Are we helping, or just muddying the waters? LOL

[Dragstews]

Lets muddy the water some more ..... Want Too ??

Install a Pro-Clutch and never again look back to the past...
(Might turn into a pillar of salt) ...



Kit includes a clutch hub, friction and steel discs, pressure plate, clutch plates, hardware and instructions.
Converts old style clutch packs to smooth modern diaphragm spring function. A sturdy double row ball bearing replaces the stock caged bearings, eliminating clutch grab and clutch hub side movement. Requires less hand effort at the handlebar, delivering smooth hand control. For use with belt or chain drive models with wet or dry clutch.

Dang GOOD clutch: (40 % more surface area then OE)