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  1. #1
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    Default XLCH Bannana Caliper- no brakes?!

    Okay so I've got a 73 XLCH with, what I believe is a one year only bannana caliper.

    Old caliper needed to be rebuilt and the bleeder screw port was stripped so got a new caliper got it mounted and and was fighting to get it bled FOREVER, no matter what I did it felt like there was still air in the lines but after reverse bleeding it I'm pretty confident that there's no air left but I still have no brake.

    Put a new line on it too, I know some times they swell and absorb the pressure from the master cylinder, still no brakes.

    It's got some resistance on the lever but it goes all the way to the bars.

    The only other thing I noticed is that when I apply brakes the caliper seems to twist, is this normal? I don't remember if my old one did that

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    Quote Originally Posted by Oggie View Post

    The only other thing I noticed is that when I apply brakes the caliper seems to twist, is this normal? I don't remember if my old one did that

    Yes sir that's normal..... It has to do with how worn the pin is.... Do you have a caliper support on it??

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    The sportsters don't use a forward caliper support

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    Quote Originally Posted by Oggie View Post
    The sportsters don't use a forward caliper support

    Ok I guess they need one then...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    Ok I guess they need one then...
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Kind of a dumb design, probably why it was only around for 1 year

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    Maybe an idea in this 2011 HD Forums thread to help with bleeding:
    Different technique to bleed front brakes

    A: "...trick with brake bleeding is slow and easy with everything air bubbles move slowly in thick fluids then add small line , you get the picture . I've been doing them that way for years it's the quickest least amount of mess way I've ever seen and about the only way to bleed duals without pulling your hair out.

    Set the bike so the MC is somewhat level fill it and just pull the lever in a bit maybe a quarter of the full travel is all it needs ( a full pull to the grip works against you ) you'll see the bubble trail , bubbles quit don't pull anymore release the handle easy this creates the suction to pull the air upward give it a 5 sec count then repeat till the lever gets hard . You'll be surprised how quick it happens and solid it feel's , I'll break the bleeder once or twice on the caliper just clear old fluid and gunk and your done . Just don't let the MC go dry that's all .

    Banana calipers have a big piston and can be a bitch for no reason particularly if the bushing are worn and it moves a lot but that shouldn't cause air in the system , brake fluid wants to leak so if you have a seating or fit issue with connections you should see seepage somewhere . As a last resort a rebuild kit for the mc is cheap and easy to install and bench bleed it before you put it back on it does help in a big way ."
    https://www.hdforums.com/forum/shove...nt-brakes.html

    which leads to this related thread: Brake Bleeding...easy method.

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    Air rises. You can bleed at any fitting including the line from the master cylinder (while I'm there, I anti-seize the threads because steel parts in aluminum often seize. You can make cleanup easy by placing a trash bag with a bath towel or other absorbent on top beneath the fitting you're bleeding.

    Gravity bleeding as described above can save much hassle. It works great for cars and trucks too.

    BTW I always anti-seize (small dab) brake bleeder nipples and strongly recommend it.
    Last edited by farmall; 07-11-2018 at 11:32 AM.

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    Sounds like the piston is cocking in the bore ...
    Some A/M parts are loosely made .....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Sounds like the piston is cocking in the bore ...
    Some A/M parts are loosely made .....
    I'm starting to think that this is the issue, or at least something along these lines, this is a V-Twin part so it's probably even worse than the original AMF part. Should I pop the puck out and try to get it back in square?

    I just put everything back together for what seems like the 100th time and I can clearly see a gap between the disk and the pad...

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    You can use a C-clamp to hold the piston back (after removing the dummy half of the caliper) then bleed the system until feel gets hard. Calipers don't need to straddle a disc to be bled. Reason for doing it that way is clamp eliminating wasted motion (piston going back and forth but no air bleed results) by holding the piston in place.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Oggie View Post
    I'm starting to think that this is the issue, or at least something along these lines, this is a V-Twin part so it's probably even worse than the original AMF part.
    Oh hell now you tell us it's a V-twin part..... That's your problem....... Rebuild your old AMF caliper and go riding....

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    Sometimes it can't be rebuilt due to the worst case of Gremlin attack ya ever seen ... !!!
    ....... (Little Bastards !!) ........

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Sometimes it can't be rebuilt due to the worst case of Gremlin attack ya ever seen ... !!!
    ....... (Little Bastards !!) ........
    Yes sir You are right but I've seen just as many that can be rebuilt as i'm sure you have also.... I would like to see his on the inside and the piston.....

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    You could use a machinists caliper to measure the piston OD and bore ID to determine bore clearance.

    Example of a mount for a non-shit and much lighter dual piston brake caliper. The Tokicos are plentiful on Ebay cheep.

    http://www.fabkevin.com/shop/parts/b...placement-kit/

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