CHOP CULT HOME
Email Password
Search
Page 3 of 3 First 123
  1. #41
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    12,459

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by carlbrah View Post
    Are there any good threads on how to install the old witch hat style bearing? I did some searching but couldn't find anything. The parts are in the mail, I'm just trying to prepare for what I can. Does the witch hat stay on the pushrod via a c-clip like the wafer style?
    No it is nothing like the old wafer style and there is no c-clip.... Have you purchased a Harley manual yet?? It is covered in there...

  2. #42

    Default

    @dragstews - thanks! ill make sure to install all parts. im sure the finger is supposed to engage with the non-ridged part of the witch hat top, but how to get the witch hat to always stay in that position vs spinning to a ridges part has me scratching my head.

    @tattooo - you know us damned millenials just download the harley manual pdfs. I’ll be sure to use it during the install. last one i looked at only showed the wafer style bearing install.

  3. #43
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    12,459

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by carlbrah View Post
    @tattooo - you know us damned millenials just download the harley manual pdfs. I’ll be sure to use it during the install. last one i looked at only showed the wafer style bearing install.
    Download is just fine, as long you have one... LOL

    Look at older bikes to see the larger TOB... Like a 72 Shovelhead...

  4. #44
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    13,019

    Default

    Loading the WHB is fairly easy ....

    How I go about doing it is to sit the bearing in the kick cover making sure that the finger engages the step in the bearing ..
    Next pull out the pushrod from the mainshaft and load it in the bearing, keeping a bit of force on the bearing, load the whole kick cover back on the trans ...

  5. #45

    Default

    @dragstews - I guess the biggest issue I'm thinking through is the adjustment - you mentioned some people adjust so that when the clutch pedal is pressed down, the shift arm hits the ratchet top lid as a stop. If I adjust this way, then the T/O wont be pressed onto the finger when I'm not using the clutch pedal, therefore the T/O will have room to rotate and then the finger and T/O step wont be aligned.

    However, if there's minimal adjustment play - even though there isn't a lot of pressure on the T/O when NOT using the clutch pedal - it'll be enough to keep the step and the finger aligned together.

    Does this thought process make sense? Essentially a loose clutch adjustment gives the T/O more space to rotate and thereby misaligning the finger and the T/O step. If that is the case, then I shouldn't adjust the clutch to allow the shift arm to hit the lid as a stop, correct?

  6. #46
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    2,932

    Default

    The cone style bearing is "virtually" indestructible.
    But the wafer style shouldn't self destruct.
    I'm guessing there's another issue at play.
    Most likely too tight of an adjustment
    or atransmission that's run dry.

    Speaking of adjustment, why do you need to use the clutch arm as a stop?

Share This



Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Log in

Log in