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Looks killer bro, im really digging it
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Love the seat!Comment
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Thanks guys. Can't wait to get this thing out into the sunlight!
I'm starting to make my final "post-assembly-check-list" of things to do. Things like air pressure in tires, full bike bolt check, fluids, etc. I'm nervous about the heat cycle process on the pistons/rings... and making sure the oil pump rebuild worked (priming it I guess?).
Anyone who has built a bike back up or with a rebuilt top end... what is your routine at this point? What things do you check for or triple check right before giving it the first fire up? Lend me some wisdom...Comment
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That is looking sooo good! Almost there!! Great job. Very Regal.
Regal
adjective
re·gal | \ ˈrē-gəl
\
Definition of regal
1 : of, relating to, or suitable for a king
2 : of notable excellence or magnificence : splendidIf buildin' old school choppers was easy, anyone could do it... ain't nobody said it's gonna be easy...Comment
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In 2014, offbeat rebuilt his top end and started this Thread: Breaking in new ironhead top end?
replies included this: "Break-In Secrets"
..." What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !"
and info from S&S (original link from Dragstews not found) so followed crumbs for this:
New Engine Installation Tech Tips
How Should I Break-In My New S&S Engine?
A. Initial start up. Run engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time...Keep heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm...The next 500 miles should be spent running engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph...the first 1000 miles the motor can be run in a normal but conservative manner...Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine: no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed..."
Which way are you gonna go?If buildin' old school choppers was easy, anyone could do it... ain't nobody said it's gonna be easy...Comment
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Seems to me that the motoman article for "run it hard" is built fully on the basis of new cylinder honing techniques, and new manufacturing tolerances and quality of parts. Given those factors... his method kinda makes sense and looks to be proven with his photos and documentation.In 2014, offbeat rebuilt his top end and started this Thread: Breaking in new ironhead top end?
replies included this: "Break-In Secrets"
..." What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !"
and info from S&S (original link from Dragstews not found) so followed crumbs for this:
New Engine Installation Tech Tips
How Should I Break-In My New S&S Engine?
A. Initial start up. Run engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time...Keep heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm...The next 500 miles should be spent running engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph...the first 1000 miles the motor can be run in a normal but conservative manner...Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine: no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed..."
Which way are you gonna go?
Buuuuuuuuuuuuuut... is my motor honed with the new higher standard? Is my top end rebuilt with products that are of this type of quality and precision?
In chatting with Dragstews, I'm gonna basically follow the S&S method on this one.Last edited by bpeak; 09-26-2018, 10:31 AM.Comment
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I'm a fan of this ....
Also run the return oil line from the motor into a bucket and catch the first qt. of oil that comes out of the motor.. Then plug it up to the oil tank...
This lets you see that the pump is working and gets rid of any junk that may be in the motor at first fire up ...Last edited by Dragstews; 09-26-2018, 11:28 AM.Take my 45 and outrun em all ..Comment
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Last night was amazing! I got the new TC Bros 4-position key switch and D-plate in the mail. Focused on the wiring all night. Got the last of the terminals fitted in the main box. Did test-light for each lug on the switch to make sure the markings were right for batt/ign/acc/start/ground... and they were. Then started hooking it all up. Got the electrical box wiring all done and both aluminum side plates installed. So now the switch (with momentary spring start all-in-one), fuses, and the main breaker, are all in this housing. All wires thru the frame. Went to the rear end to wrap up the last wiring task which was the rear brake light switch. That was pretty easy. For now I'm using a cheap-o pull spring style switch because the previous owner botched together the hardtail and ruined the location for a button-style brake switch. I figure that later on I'll come up with something to clean this up. For now, pull spring it is... tied to the brake rod.
So then came the moment of truth. Juicing it up. I hooked up the positive. No problem. Went around to connect the ground... said a quick prayer... and went for it. No sparks. No smoke. No poof. Just crickets chirping outside. Ok so far so good. Slid the key in. Said another prayer. And rotated it to accessory. Sure enough - lights came on! Power works to everything! Headlight has correct hi/low beams with the blue-dot toggle. Warning lights both came on which makes sense since no oil pressure or genny spinning. Brake light works both running and brake applied. Did test-light check of all other wires and plugs and confirmed that only the stuff that needed power, had power. On to the "ignition" switch position... and everything was good. Power going to the coil. All is well.
I did NOT try to check the start (spring) position yet obviously since no fluids in the bike and I have not timed the points yet or anything. So that will come later. But for now, the wiring appears to be all good!!! What a relief. No smoke. No odors of heat or melting anything. No sparks or odd sounds. Good, to, go!
So now I just have to install the exhaust, kickstand, and passenger pegs then this sucker is assembled!
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Heck yeah! Wiring is always my least favorite part of the building process. I'm jealous you still have time to ride this winter.. It was a warm 42 degrees on my way to work this morning. P.S. I really dig that oil fill cap.
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Thanks man. Yea I had the garage door open till the sun went down and the mosquitoes and moths decided they wanted to help. Wasn't sweating as bad last night but definitely had the fans runnin.
Oh... and the oil fill cap came with the oil tank. Bought from "CDC" off eBay. Thing is solid as a rock.Comment
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good shit man!Comment
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Yesterday was EPIC! Had a good buddy over to help out. Got started around 9:30. Had just a few things to finish. The kickstand, passenger pegs, and exhaust. But in that we had to fab a set screw for the kickstand and modify the frame boss. Had to make a rear exhaust pipe mount. And had to work out some better install of the pegs. So by 1:30 we were finally done with those parts.
Out into the sunshine she came... for the first time as a fully assembled bike!
So a couple of things. First - I am not thrilled with the pipes. This will work for the short term for the October events I wanna hit. But I will definitely be fabricating some better exhaust in the near future. I already have a design.
Second - the fur is too long on the seat. I like the craziness of it but visually it makes the seat look thicker than it actually is. I'm going to hire my wife to do a barber-cut. Going to take some length off the sides of the fur where it overhangs teh edge first and see what it looks like. It'll still be furry but not as looney. Also --- the seat is STUPID uncomfortable. I built it for rigidity so that it would keep its shape (and because I had to build it myself so I really had no clue how to do foam padding). Point is, the seat was an experiment. Works for now. But might not last long. Might build something else over the winter as I'm putting miles on it as-is.
Beyond those two things, I am PUMPED how it turned out. Cheers fellas!Comment
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And for kicks... here's a short vid of the second heat cycle on the engine.
On the first attempted start up, I turned the gas on and the carb flooded like crazy all over the place before I hit the key. Shut it off. Tapped on the bowl which loosened the float. Gas on. No more flood. Hit the key... lit off but died (flooded with gas). Choke off. Key again and on the 2nd or 3rd rev it fired right up. Purred like a kitten. Nice even tune and idle on the carb. No smoke. No issues.
This was the second cycle after it cooled all the way back down and on this one, you can see it fires right up.
Needless to say... i was TRIPPING OUT OF MY MIND that this thing ran so well right off the bat. I was so worried going into it. But man, to hear this thing potato, potato, potato was the highlight of forever. 10 months of work, engine rebuilding that I've never done before, types of fabrication I only saw on Chopcult before, so many things that could have gone wrong. But thanks to all of you guys' help along the way - it actually WORKED! You guys rule!
One cool note to note, if you remember way back at the beginning I was worried about a unique oil leak out the weep hole in the primary filler cap that I couldn't figure out. Later on I found that the oil pump was not timed correctly and I hoped that this was the cause of the odd oil pressurization issue. Well - during the 1st (one minute), 2nd (three minutes), and 3rd (three minutes) heat cycles... not one drop of oil out the primary filler cap.
I did notice that the oil feed lines to the rocker boxes, the right one, at the base, was seeping. I must have boogered up the rubber seal. Wasn't thrilled about the fitment of them to begin with. They BARELY reached the boxes. So I just ordered a set of the braided hose version that I'll throw on. That will solve that. And I still have a leak (less than originally) from the base of the starter block. Will have to take that part back apart later and goop it up more and see if I can close it up.
Anyhoo - a couple more steps to break in the motor. Then prolly next weekend I'll actually test out the clutch, brakes, and tranny to make sure the drivetrain is all functional. And obviously get it going down the road.
Then the fun will start - with regular video updates with my helmet cam on the YouTube channel. So... much more to come!!!Last edited by bpeak; 09-30-2018, 2:34 PM.Comment
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Looks awesome! For the 'temporary' pipes, what if you just cut a foot or so off each of 'em? Looks like that back want want to drag...oh ya, they're drag pipes...
It ain't supposed to be comfortable - it's a chop! Maybe get a smaller tank so you have to stop for gas more often...If buildin' old school choppers was easy, anyone could do it... ain't nobody said it's gonna be easy...Comment
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