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Cool. That's what I'll probably do then. Wasn't sure if there was something additional I was missing as. If it's really just as easy as boring them up.
Cool. That's what I'll probably do then. Wasn't sure if there was something additional I was missing as. If it's really just as easy as boring them up.
Well, there is a bit more to it. Boring them for the 41mm legs is the first part, but then the top tree has to be machined to accept the 41mm style top cap. Aaron has done a set or two, but I don't imagine he's a reliable resource for this type of work anymore.
Ahhh hah. I see what Badmonkey is talking about. That's why you gotta throw these questions out there.
The tubes, at least on my '75 FLH Wide Glide, narrow down at the top to much smaller than 41mm. They don't taper, rather there is a cap on top that essentially serves as a sleave and goes into a the top tree and then the very top cap threads into it and flush against the top tree.
After reading other forums I found that there are some companies which make a normal cap, like on the 39mm tubes but for 41mm. You would just need to account for the length lost in sliding the tubes up through the top tree if you were concerned about stock length.
Yep, I was thinking someone made the 39mm style caps for 41mm tubes so you could get away with just boring the trees out. I just wasn't sure. You get what I'm talking about though, so you're on the right track towards your skinny 41 dreams.
i just did a set for my build. Basically just made a nice little jig. made 2 dowels a 39 and a 41 so clamped one end onto the 39mm down and then machined the free end. then switched it out for the 41mm dowel and the fresh 41mm bore slides on and you machine the other side. as for the caps. I just machined off the upper piece and welded a stainless allen bolt. but i plan on making some nice ones. the only problem is you loose an inch or so from the fork tubes sliding a little farther up into the trees.
If you want more you could turn off a cap flange, bore the center then turn a dual-diameter slug (and bevel the bottom end for welding) with a flange on the top. Press fit + TIG would make it effectively one piece. There would be plenty of room to repeat your socket head trick flush with the top, and if you like you could use a much larger OD socket head then drill and tap that for a fill plug (pulling fork caps to add fluid sucks).
Since you now have the jig ya might offer to machine triple clamps for others. Given current machine shop rates a hundred bucks-ish plus postage per set would undercut most machine shops (who often get that or more an hour) and be fair IMO.
There is another method for the top caps. Machine a sleeve with the i.d. the same as the narrow part on the top cap and the o.d. either 41 mm, or if you want to skip boring the top tree make it 39 mm. Length is the same as the narrow part of the top cap Then put a slice in that sleeve so when you tighten the top tree, it tightens the sleeve. Put the stock 41mm top nut back on and you're done. You either have to do it this way, or make/modify your own top cap if you're running '49-'77 style tubes. The aftermarket caps are all for the later forks. Custom Cycle Engineering makes a set of those as well.
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