-
Last edited by Tattooo; 10-15-2017, 5:19 PM. -
Never actually thought I would agree with Trampstamp Tattooo but even a stopped clock is right 2x a day. (He annoys the shit outta me as well. I look at him like a Hemorrhoid, Some say he grows on you but most folks just want to cut it-him off, You can use substances for temporary relief, but in the end removal is the real deal, or at least other forums came to that conclusion).
The ONLY rattle can paint that is worth a Sh*t is the stuff you can get mixed (Or do yourself) with REAL autobody paint such as PPG, RM, Diamont, Glasurit, or DuPont etc etc.. there are special loadable cans you mix the REAL paint up, add to the rattle can and spray away. Its for touch up,emergencies, or PO' folk who dont have access to a body shop setup. But its a damn site better than store bought rattle cans but its STILL a half ass way of doing the job. Talk to your local jobber to get the situ on these loadable paint can setups.
I have used REAL clear (Not rattle can) over a rattle can base for a few people but I wont warranty it and I get paid up front to roll the dice on it. Paint is only as good as the elements and using crap materials yields crap results.
I dont know anyone using lacquer anymore. Its illegal to sell these days in most places and went away in my area back in late 1990s. Base coat clear coat using catalyzed enamels or Polyurethanes is where its at these days.
To answer the question is basic paint tech 101 though regardless of garbage rattle cans or real paint. ANY paint can solvent pop or peel, blister or crackle if you dont follow a formula. When clear coating over another base color you have 2 options, Clear within a specific window based on temp, hardeners and solvents used. With a Ambient or shop temp of 70 deg F that is often 15-20 min flash time. Follow with some initially light piss coats, let them rock up with a good flash between. Follow with a medium coat if no issues. Allow it to all cure fully. Then block sand with 400-600 wash, then clear again with multiple coats and again allow to cure. Cut & Buff as normal.
**IF** The magic window is passed then you have 2 choices. Allow it to fully cure (Days) and then carefully wetsand with 400-600 but nothing finer than that. (Clear wont stick to stuff too smooth). Then wipe it down with a compatible solvent and watch it flash off, then follow with clear.
OR... roll the dice with either reducer or adhesion promoter. (Often marketed as "Jam It") and then follow with clear and SLOW cure the puppy. What you do is any paint thats fully cured more paint will NOT stick unless you open the surface (IE: Sanding) or wake it up with reducer. Wiping it in is dangerous and scary. Likely it will just melt the finish (Fukked) but you can do piss
coats and watch it flash off and then clear coat. But thats a very dangerous way to roll.
Get educated on REAL paint systems, Spies Hecker, Glasurit, RM and BASF ALL have excellent product data and application guides and outline exactly how to use the products, how to do repairs, blends, spot touch ups, how to cure, what ratios and guidelines for HOW to use their products successfully. (Germans got their sht together) Dupont and PPG also have their product guides or even systems manuals.
I been painting since the '70s,,,
Rattle can?? Show me any rattle can that doesnt fade away to embarrassment out in prolonged sunlight, or can tolerate Gas, oil, brake fluids without turning into a gooey mess. Sure real paint doesnt like those things either but 100x more durable.
I had an old shop customer who spent weeks and weeks doing an elaborate 70s style custom job on his tins with rattle cans and first time he stopped for fuel when the bike was done it all went horribly wrong.
I had another customer whos bike sat in my front of my shop waiting for wrench time, Sometimes out in front and sometimes just in the window over a 2 week period. I was embarrassed and he was seriously angry about how bad the tank and front fender had faded just from the sunlight. Not my fault but he and his son had invested a LOT of time painting it with rattle cans.
I totally get some guy in certain circumstances rattle canning his ride just temporarily just so it doesnt look like crap,, but there is NO SUBSTITUTE for real paint. Quality materials are not cheap, but there is ways to make it affordable. And I started doing it because I couldnt afford to pay others. I got good at it and its been putting coin in my pocket for many years. But barter works as well. If you cant do real paint, make friends with those who do.
(House of Kolors is my fav)
Comment
-
I've read it all, it's black and white
The spectrum made a shade I like.
The crimson rays are ruby bright
Technicolor light.
Red! I want red, there's no substitute for red.
Red! Paint it red, green ain't mean compared to red.
You don't know what it does to me,
My crimson intensity
I'm haunted by the mystery,
The mystery of red.
Red knocks 'em dead,
Some like it hot, I like it red.
Red is my lover, got it covered
Red is my number, sure as a coma
Red is my drummer, and I hear red thunder
Move over brother,
Red's a motherfucker)
(Red! Red!)
that's' what I said...
(Red! Red!)
Come on to bed
(Red! Red!)
Gimme' that expensive spread..
I got photo albums filled with airplanes (Both military and civilian but was never allowed to paint a flame job on an acft, a dream I have yet to realize) Cars, trucks and more motorcycles than I can count that I have squirted my pearly jizz all over. But when it comes to a bike I am gonna flip, I got my go to color,, I call it Resale red, knocks em dead every time. House of Kolor is the shit and I took classes with the grand master Jon Kosmoski,. Cool guy who has forgotten more than I ever will know.
Here's a pix after a grueling couple days on a time crunch, It was beer thirty after delivering that job. I rarely paint cars anymore, Bikes are more manageable. (Thats one of my custom painted Datsun 510s in the background)
Last edited by Dougtheinternetannoyance123; 10-17-2017, 1:12 PM.Comment
-
See I knew you would agree with me sooner or later... We are more alike than you would agree....
Now finally a post of yours I think is a good one and it doesn't just ramble on about other things that has nothing to do with the thread....... Nice one..
By the way to set the record straight yet again...... I was banned 30 min after they banned Jesse/Dragstews on JJ.... Now that's from 1 forum that's singular not plural...I've never been banned anywhere else..... I consider that a badge of courage....
I understand you have been banned from several forums but I could care less...That's you not me..... Your the one that keeps bringing it up about me like it matters....I was banned for taking up for a friend... Have you ever stood up for anyone that you thought was being done wrong???? I wonder.........
Glad we agreed on something....Comment
-
i have not built a sporty tranny since the 80's so its been a while for me
from your video your gears seem fine. i would rebearing it, just cause im in there and properly shim it. forks are cheap get a set from ANDREWS and your rollers, make sure nothing is worn in pawl and your plate the rollers sit in, this is where I think your problem lies....
Last edited by Guest; 04-17-2022, 10:49 PM.Comment
-
Tweet
Comment