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  1. #21

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    Thats a tight fit, its do able if the swingarm plate is 3/8" but I would want a minimum of 1/4" / 6mm plate either side as it has less chance of twisting and more surface area for the axle to sit on. If you could get hold of another axle you could easily make one to suit thats long enough. As long as you keep the wheel lined up with the centre of the bike you wont have any problems then make your frame around it.

  2. #22
    Njhcharry
    Guest

    Default Who's virago is that?

    Quote Originally Posted by GSBobber1980 View Post
    The middle (second) picture illustrates my original question

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    upload images fast
    Who's virago?. I'm hacking mine apart right now in the shop but I was just looking at a couple different sites to see any ideas.. I mean I welcome help I would like help but that's not going to stop me from grinding away all night...this is the first time I've ever owned a virago and what I like about how cheap they are is if by some chance I f*** this thing up I'll grab another one off of the marketplace I won't hate myself for it but anyway if anybody has any advice.. I have no idea why that guy didn't cut out his top tube..I put a a king peanut tank on mine and already sliced mine sort of how he did his but that's actually why I'm making it a hardtail just because once I started everyday I look at it I'm like I just need to redo the whole thing

  3. #23
    Senior Member

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    Join Date
    May 2010
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    1,146

    Default

    Hey man, got some input for ya. First, the rear hub is aluminum on your GS, so it’ll be easy to work with. You can unbolt the lower shock mount from it or cut it off. You can see how the pumpkin ‘volcanoes’ out to where it meets the head of your axle? That is where you can the wiggle room necessary for your bike.
    Pull your rear wheel, unbolt the rear diff and drain it. If you can machine or have access to a machinist, then you can machine off 1/4”-3/8” from that ‘volcano’ no problem! That give you the space for that side axle plate. The other side has an axle plate already, so you’ll just be replacing it with your new one, or retaining that stock one for your new hardtail. If you cannot machine it, or trust yourself, you can do it with hand tools just fine. Affix the diff in a vice or on your workbench and make sure the ‘volcano’ is facing up and level in all direction. Use a flap disk, sanding disk, or belt sander and start taking off material. Make sure you use aluminum specific disks/pads/wheels etc, the ones meant for steel will get clogged with aluminum and explode. No bueno. Take down as much as you need and make sure it’s still flat and level. Boom, you’ve clearances enough for your axle plate.

    Bolt the rear diff back up and keep going. Now as far as servicing goes, it will bolt up and unbolt just fine. Since the axle plates are the same whether it’s swingarm or hardtail. You can ditch the shaft side of the swingarm IF you make a mount that attaches the hardtail to the mounts on the rear diff. The swingarm is the frame that keeps the diff from rotating. So if you ditch that, you need to stabilize it another way(to the hardtail frame). That’s what I did on the silver Intruder, because I wanted to run the shaft drive open. The u joint is open and exposed as well. If I didn’t explain any of that we’ll enough, let me know and I’ll do some janky picture editing to show it better. I can grab pics of ChopSlut too if you need, she’s just sleeping in the barn for now.

    Happy Chopping!

  4. #24
    Senior Member

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    Join Date
    Oct 2012
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    I prefer to build an more conventional frame and uncover the driveshaft. On this XJ I offset the rear of the frame to make room for the gear box without making the whole rear section wider than a double wide.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Other than the seat and chain bars that the owner insisted on I'm real pleased with the look.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Dusty

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