Grease on primary chain?

[ElekVins]

I'm running an enclosed primary chain on my shovel.
I'd like to get rid of the oil lines that goes in and out of it.
Can I put some grease on the chain? Bad idea?
If it's doable what kind of grease is ok?

I don't mind opening it once in a while to regrease if needed.

[Keeleyvision]

Don't do that. As soon as the grease gets hot it's going to sling it off the chain, that's one reason grease isn't used in hi speed applications. plus your clutches need that oil to work right, if anything disconect the oil lines, plug them off and run a quart of oil in the primary and change it every time you change your oil.

[ElekVins]

I'm not extremly surprised by that...
I thought maybe there were some high quality grease for such application nowaday

What is used on open primary bikes?
Is that just because it's open it gets less heat on the chain?

[Guest]

Chainwax is less messy, but a bit more maintenance than I want to do. I'd plug it up and run atf, fill level where it just touches the bottom of the basket.

[Tattooo]

Chainwax is less messy, but a bit more maintenance than I want to do. I'd plug it up and run atf, fill level where it just touches the bottom of the basket.

You should never run ATF fluid in a bike it's to thin for one thing....... Well unless it's an automatic........ Block your lines and run about half a quart of oil in your primary. If yours leaks badly like many Shovels do..... Get some spray chain lube and about every 250 miles take your chain adjuster cover off and with the bike running spray your primary chain.......... I do that with all of my old bikes.......... I've never had a chain go bad...

[Dragstews]

Shovelhead usa Oil Bath Primary - Sealing your Primary Oiler
It's easy to isolate the primary, you can do it when the bike is assembled, but a cleaner job can be done by taking parts off (ya' need to pull the inner primary and oil pump to permanently plug the connections off with pipe plugs, but you can get by with just cutting the hoses and inserting a bolt into the hose to plug them off for quite some time until ya' can "do it right" at the next major teardown).

First I'll explain the hoses coming from the primary and what you need to do to seal it off. There is a 3/8" vent line coming from the middle of the inner primary that "tee's" into the vent line going from the motor case to the oil tank. There is another 3/8" oil return that connects to the rear of the inner primary, near the inside bottom surface...it goes from the inner primary back to the motor case, where it connects to a fitting just inboard of the oil pump (near the crankcase vent fitting). And finally, there is a small 1/4" line connected to the top of the oil pump that supplies oil to the inner primary, through a small fitting in the middle of the inner.

You need to remove the vent line from the inner and plug it off. You will no longer need that "tee" in the motor case to oil tank vent line, you can replace it with a single length of hose. You will need to remove the oil return line from the rear of the primary to the motor case and plug both ends (as stated before, you can simply cut the hose and shove a bolt in each end, securing it with a hoseclamp...this works, but I prefer to use brass plumbing plugs, 1/8" pipe thread, to close everything off. Then, disconnect the smaller oil supply hose at the oil pump. Leave the hose connected to the inner primary fitting. Run the hose down under the frame, so it can act as a vent for the inner primary. If ya' don't vent the primary to atmosphere, as the lube inside warms up the primary will pressurize and oil may seep out of the gaskets. Again, you can plug the nipple at the oil pump by simply leaving a short section of hose on it and plugging it with a screw or you can pull the little nipple out of the oil pump cover by twisting it back and forth with a pair of pliers, then tap the hole for a small machine screw and screw it shut. As I said, while the plugged hose method works, I really hate the look of short hoses plugged with something and it's not much more work to do it the right way.

Once you have the oiling system disconnected, you need to add oil to the primary. I run straight 30 weight auto oil. Never had a problem with clutches, but make sure you are running a wet/dry clutch...a plain "dry" clutch will act up. As far as oil, it only takes about 1/2 quart or so. Just have somebody set on the bike in an upright position, pour the oil in through the derby cover until it just touches the bottom of the clutch shell and you're set. You don't need to have the chain in the oil, it only needs to be enough oil so it contacts the bottom of the clutch shell...as the clutch shell spins, it'll sling the oil around and lube the chain no problem, guaranteed.

I have set up a few bikes this way and never had any complaints. I have been running it myself ever since I went with an electric start four years ago. It works for me.








For those looking for primary sealing information...............from Hawg Ryder on Shovelhead USA

This works well too...

[Guest]

You should never run ATF fluid in a bike it's to thin for one thing....... Well unless it's an automatic........ Block your lines and run about half a quart of oil in your primary. If yours leaks badly like many Shovels do..... Get some spray chain lube and about every 250 miles take your chain adjuster cover off and with the bike running spray your primary chain.......... I do that with all of my old bikes.......... I've never had a chain go bad...

I've always ran atf, works great. 20wt oil full of detergent designed not to slip, unlike modern oils full of friction inhibitors or whatever they call them.

[Tattooo]

I've always ran atf, works great. 20wt oil full of detergent designed not to slip, unlike modern oils full of friction inhibitors or whatever they call them.

You run it in a Shovelhead??? If it works for you that is great........... I'd never run it in one of my bikes..........

[ElekVins]

yes gettin' rid of the leaks was the main reason so a quart of oil in there will not help.
too bad there's no grease I can use. I wonder what people with open chains use, even if I reckon they might get less hot bein' open...

Thanks Dragstews, this how to is very informative, if I finally got that route, it'll be very helpfull.

Interesting input about atf SamHain, didn't thought of that. Any tip to choose the best one, or any of them will do the trick?

[Dragstews]

Thanks Dragstews, this how to is very informative, if I finally got that route, it'll be very helpfull.

You do know that the "Real Cure" for no oil leaks is to covert to a belt drive.....
........ "No Oil" in there means "No Oil" to leak out ..........

1-1/2” WIDE . . 11mm BELT . . CLOSED PRIMARY. .
ELECTRIC START & KICKSTART MODELS BIG TWINS

And while your in there can replace that weak-ass inner primary with one of these Beefy M/F's .....

[Tattooo]

yes gettin' rid of the leaks was the main reason so a quart of oil in there will not help.
too bad there's no grease I can use. I wonder what people with open chains use, even if I reckon they might get less hot bein' open...

Thanks Dragstews, this how to is very informative, if I finally got that route, it'll be very helpfull.

Interesting input about atf SamHain, didn't thought of that. Any tip to choose the best one, or any of them will do the trick?

There is grease did you read my response???????????

Get some spray chain lube and about every 250 miles take your chain adjuster cover off and with the bike running spray your primary chain.......... I do that with all of my old bikes.......... I've never had a chain go bad...

[Guest]

You do know that the "Real Cure" for no oil leaks is to covert to a belt drive.....
........ "No Oil" in there means "No Oil" to leak out ..........

1-1/2” WIDE . . 11mm BELT . . CLOSED PRIMARY. .
ELECTRIC START & KICKSTART MODELS BIG TWINS

And while your in there can replace that weak-ass inner primary with one of these Beefy M/F's .....

[ATTACH=CONFIG]71117[/ATTACH]

I've got a belt on two of the bikes broke the shovel in a hurry, seems pretty common. No leaks is nice as hell though, side of the road with a broken belt is a tough fix though, started keeping a spare.

[ElekVins]

You do know that the "Real Cure" for no oil leaks is to covert to a belt drive.....
........ "No Oil" in there means "No Oil" to leak out ..........

1-1/2” WIDE . . 11mm BELT . . CLOSED PRIMARY. .
ELECTRIC START & KICKSTART MODELS BIG TWINS

And while your in there can replace that weak-ass inner primary with one of these Beefy M/F's .....

[ATTACH=CONFIG]71117[/ATTACH]

Yes defenatly no oil means no oil leaks!! ahah

Got big plans for my primary Jesse...
More on that later

[ElekVins]

There is grease did you read my response???????????

Yes sorry I got confused with all the answers, forgot you mentionned it.
every 250miles is kinda a of frequent maintenance, one more thing to worry about on long trips...
But if it cure my leaks, it's worth a try.

[ElekVins]

I've got a belt on two of the bikes broke the shovel in a hurry, seems pretty common. No leaks is nice as hell though, side of the road with a broken belt is a tough fix though, started keeping a spare.

Yes for some reason I like the chain for that, it will take you home even if it needs replacement.
Spare belt when on the road is a must once you convert to belt drive