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Two questions.... What is a t100sr. I've seen the identification charts but never was there an Sr mentioned. Part 2... I can't find conversion neck bearings for a 66. 1967 up I find all day. Any help from the gurus would be swell.
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If ya ask Google nicely....
From "Illustrated Triumph Motorcycle Buyers Guide" by Roy Bacon
"US Variants
. . . . For 1963 the TR5A/R became the T100SR and both it and the
T100SC had the general range changes of timing cover points and three
spring clutch. Both models adopted the rear skirt as used by the home
market T100SS. The exhaust remained as before along with the high bars
. . .
Both models lost their skirts for 1964 when the exhaust on the
off-road model was changed to a waist levet silencer on the left,
still connected to siamesed pipes. The finish for both became sapphire
red and silver but polished aluminum mudguards went on the T100SC.
They continued as they were for 1965, the finish that year being gold
and white, after which the models were replaced by the general export
T100R and T100C machines that continued to 1972."
Hope this helps -
yep, what he said, Generally known as a "Sports Roadster" but theres a lot of debate on that depending on source. different bikes had different nomenclatures and specs depending on market to be sold in. There also was a number of SR model 650s and many of these were sold into western Canada. At the time there was a recession for the canucks but US dealers were selling every Trumpet they could get their hands on.
So, for complicated reasons, Canuck dealers were not happy. (Research dealership flooring costs and how they finance and float the costs) a deal was brokered by the western US factory rep, ( i know him, lives here locally) and the Canadians got the next years bikes allotments and passed on the SR and other unsold bikes from the previous season to US dealers mostly in the Pacific NW. As a result MANY were repainted in the next years colors and sold, often titled and registered as the wrong year. This causes confusion.
For super detailed info, Roy Bacon is good for general FYI, but wrong on a LOT of stuff but his books have their uses. The better reference guide is the "Triumph Tiger 100 and daytona" by JR Nelson, theres also several books such as the Triumph Trophy Bible (i think by Nelson too) but I dont see it on the shelf in my office. David Gaylin and Lindsay Brooke have several good books too (Triumph racing, Triumph in America, Triumph TR6 and T120 restoration guide, etc etc) Except for Gaylin many of the authors are UK based and they get US details wrong so nothing is perfect.
What is the neck specs? My wholesaler (and others) offer up tapered roller conversions, should be the same Dia neck as most. There is commonly avail tapered bearings the problem is the race wont fit the frame cup. In order to do it a special sleeve adapter is machined and presssed together. Kits run about $35-55 depending on source. You can make your own as well. I make a sealed washer and cap for mine to keep the bearings clean but the conversions are the way to go. beats the crap out of the stock ball and races.Comment
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I'm going to be putting my '66 T100C basketcase back together and don't know whether I have all the parts needed. Can anyone share a schematic or drawing showing the neck bearing assembly for my year? ThanksComment
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The first thing ANY self respecting Triumph/Trumpet owner should do is get a copy of the factory parts book and the factory workshop manuals. The parts books have a very helpful IPB for every part on the bike so you can avoid problems like the DPO-Dreaded Previous Owner who installed parts backwards or wrong year parts.
Thing-a-mah-jig BEFORE the What-zit-after the WTF thingy. You can download them free here or many other sites. Go to your year and download the PDF. I find it helpful to put on a thumb drive,. Print them at a copy shop and then install them in plastic page protectors in a 3 ring binder for the shop. The plastic protects them from oil and beer spills and more useful than a laptop or Crackberry. Be sure to orientate them so each PARTS page is side by side by the Part number and description lists.
See: http://partsbooks.britishonly.com/#500TwinComment
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I might add, while you are at it, Good idea to get parts books for a number of years for a couple reasons.
#1) Just because your bike title or registration SAYS 1966 does not mean it is. In the UK back then, next years production started after summer holiday and so your bike COULD be manufactured in the fall of 65 for example. Year of manufacutre and year of model can be 2 different things.
#2) In the US often a bike would be titled and registered as year sold, NOT the model year, so if your bike sat in the dealership or distributors warehouse and is a 66 model but sold in 68 you COULD have the wrong year title.
#3) In some cases, Dealers or even distributors resold old models and repainted them in the new years colors. No one wants an old model so many an unsuspecting buyer got a regurgitated bike. This also happened with some Canadian models that failed to sell and were part of a deal I already mentioned where the West Coast factory rep brokered a deal. So you get guys who think their 68 TR6SC is legit and its actually a 65-66 TR6SC.
#4) The British bike factorys were big fans of parts bin engineering. If it was on the shelf it got used and might be the wrong year part. Realities of manufacturing. I know some of the original dealers and shop staff. When you opened the crates. Sometimes parts that were out of stock were thrown in the crate and the dealer had to install them. Most common on body work but it happened with all kinds of parts. One of the challenges of restoring a bike is parts book correct or as purchased correct. If your bike has the wrong year parts on it. It COULD have come from the factory that way or a factory service part.
#5) SHIT HAPPENS. Realities of manufacturing is sometimes what seemed like a good idea or workable simply was not. This resulted in bikes and parts that might be IN the parts book and factory manuals, or even period photos might NOT be the right parts anymore. Thats why you should also research this. Many parts were found to be defective or modified. Dealer service bulletins will often document this. I have period factory released photos like this, and many period advertising were airbrushed and cleaned up. Look carefully,, you might notice you cant see cables or other features because the factory art department airbrushed them out. (Too cluttered) I have several dealer replacement frames. The originals were missing critical braces and the originals cracked or broke. There was factory recalls. There was some bikes sold that had to be retrofitted at the dealers with replacement parts too. (Crooked primary drives on certain years). In 1970-71 the factory made half of the 1971 year bikes before they figured out the motors would NOT fit into the new frames and required a factory shut down while they redesigned and reconfigured the cyl head and head bolts.Comment
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Thanks a bunch for the info Doug and link to the parts catalog. Was unaware it was available for free. Very happy to have that now. Lots of great info in your responses regarding the practices of Triumph and their dealerships. Very good advice and info. Off to peruse the catalog!Last edited by LoudPipesSaveLives; 02-06-2017, 5:27 PM.Comment
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That is correct on the little stock ball bearings but they are a POS no matter what in my opinion, Best thing you can do is convert it to a tapered roller bearing and then fab a cover for the bottom one too so both bearings are shielded, Much better kit. You can source these kits from any number of bike shops or dealers or order direct online. I order mine thru my dealer acct, but this place has them at a fair price. (some of their stuff is quite expensive) but here you go. Problem solved.
See: https://www.thefactorymetalworks.com...50-motorcycles
oops,, I see 67 and later for 500s. I would physically have to go thru my stuff to check and find out why this would not fit, but I know we have fitted them on early unit 500s so it is doable,
Look carefully at the kit. HINT# the tapered bearings and races are standard off the shelf bearings availible at ANY bearing house. Its the little sleeves and adapters that make them work on the oddball British sizes. So, you CAN adapt any tapered bearing sets and its just a matter of getting the right sizes and then the matter of adapting. I used to swap Kawasaki disc brake front ends (KZ750-900-1000 types) Onto 71 and later frames. Same deal, we went to our local bearing place and made adapters and made it work, Not hard at all.Comment
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I don't have a problem using the original bearing setup. For now anyways. The bike is going to be used pretty lightly and locally. I definitely need the 3/16 size bearings for my 66 frame.Last edited by LoudPipesSaveLives; 02-09-2017, 6:39 AM.Comment
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make some measurements go to bearing supply store
I live in a very small-town so I went to NAPA auto
they let me measure the bearings they had in stock
found a set in the the trailer wheel bearing box to fit an
odd/unknown aftermarket frame I built up a few years ago
you need a pair of calipers for this.at least 2thou press for
race and a tight slip for baring center hole to stem
good luckComment
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