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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    To the people that keep blowing tail lights???? How much air pressure are you running in the rear????
    I run about 20lbs, never lost a tail light.

  2. #22
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    im running right around 20 ibs as well i nuked lots of tail lights before going led. depends where you ride though too, i end up on gravel and some seriously shitty roads.

    on the red lock tight. everyone is going to have there own way of doing shit, if having 16 different kinds of threadlocker and attempting to use the "perfect" one for every application floats your boat then all the power to you. my day job is a natural gas compression technician, i literally work on big vibrating peaces of shit. we use red lock tight on tons of stuff, if your having problems removing it you can simply slightly heat it and it will come right out, impacting motion also releases locktight. as for stripped allens your really gonna blame locktight? allens get stripped because people but a metric key in a standard bolt (or vise versa) and call it close enough. that and the huge amount of truly shit quality allen key sets out there and its a fuck up. i put in and remove allen keys from 5/16 to 1" every day and honestly can not recall stripping one (and like i said we use red locktight on everything)

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by hhc View Post
    im running right around 20 ibs as well i nuked lots of tail lights before going led. depends where you ride though too, i end up on gravel and some seriously shitty roads.

    on the red lock tight. everyone is going to have there own way of doing shit, if having 16 different kinds of threadlocker and attempting to use the "perfect" one for every application floats your boat then all the power to you. my day job is a natural gas compression technician, i literally work on big vibrating peaces of shit. we use red lock tight on tons of stuff, if your having problems removing it you can simply slightly heat it and it will come right out, impacting motion also releases locktight. as for stripped allens your really gonna blame locktight? allens get stripped because people but a metric key in a standard bolt (or vise versa) and call it close enough. that and the huge amount of truly shit quality allen key sets out there and its a fuck up. i put in and remove allen keys from 5/16 to 1" every day and honestly can not recall stripping one (and like i said we use red locktight on everything)
    I am not "blaming" stripped allen heads to threadlocker at all. When I get an aluminum wheel with stainless hardware and everything is stripped, the one common thing is red loctite. And not just a few drops either, combined with that bolt being over torqued. Most rotors are supposed to between 10 and 35lb/ft or so, combine too much red, over torqued, stainless hardware in aluminum wheel along with the wrong tools and that's the recipe for tearing up the hardware. I'm not saying I am perfect by any means either, I have just enough talent to strip a bolt most days.......

    BTW, what are you using for LED? Are you using an entire replacement light, or taking an old filament bulb housing with one of those led bulb replacements that screw in like an 1157, if that makes sense? I like LED's due to how bright they are, and around here you need it. Motorcycles seem to be a nuisance.....

  4. #24
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    good old silicone works just as good as anything on those nuts and bolts, and it's still easy to get them off...been using it for years..

  5. #25
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    Silicone used in moderation is handy shit, and if use on threads would keep out moisture. It's also a good way to protectively fill unused threaded holes. Not my idea, I think I read it in an old Super Hunky column back in the Cretaceous period.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsaz666 View Post
    I am not "blaming" stripped allen heads to threadlocker at all. When I get an aluminum wheel with stainless hardware and everything is stripped, the one common thing is red loctite. And not just a few drops either, combined with that bolt being over torqued. Most rotors are supposed to between 10 and 35lb/ft or so, combine too much red, over torqued, stainless hardware in aluminum wheel along with the wrong tools and that's the recipe for tearing up the hardware. I'm not saying I am perfect by any means either, I have just enough talent to strip a bolt most days.......

    BTW, what are you using for LED? Are you using an entire replacement light, or taking an old filament bulb housing with one of those led bulb replacements that screw in like an 1157, if that makes sense? I like LED's due to how bright they are, and around here you need it. Motorcycles seem to be a nuisance.....
    fucking stainless. i hate stainless hardware with a passion, it has its uses but everyone and there dog seems to think because it "wont" rust it and aluminum must be the perfect match. im just using a replacement bulb ran it all last season with no issues and will be giving it a try again this season.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by hhc View Post
    fucking stainless. i hate stainless hardware with a passion, it has its uses but everyone and there dog seems to think because it "wont" rust it and aluminum must be the perfect match. im just using a replacement bulb ran it all last season with no issues and will be giving it a try again this season.
    Agreed. I think its funny when guys say stainless doesn't rust.

    You are using a bulb like this? I've used them as replacements in my camper (more amp hours available when only running on batteries) but never on a motorcycle. Ill have to try one.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #28
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    I have tried one of those bulbs..after a ride across town, my headlight looked like a bowl of pop corn seeds...no way , don't waste your money...however I did buy an led bulb off of ebay with 3 large leds in it and a big heat sink on it, and it's by far the best bulb I have ever run,,,nice and bright and they are supposed to last 50,000 hours, I believe this one will..I could post it if any one is interested....$25 bucks..at the time..your stator will smile too..!

  9. #29
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    Taillight bulbs fuck I've had 2 axl mounted plate/tailight brakets break off my handrail paughco

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsaz666 View Post
    I run about 20lbs, never lost a tail light.
    There you go...... I run about 16lbs.....

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsaz666 View Post
    Agreed. I think its funny when guys say stainless doesn't rust.

    You are using a bulb like this? I've used them as replacements in my camper (more amp hours available when only running on batteries) but never on a motorcycle. Ill have to try one.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1157 LED.jpg 
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ID:	67847
    looks kinda like that mine has fewer larger led's though

  12. #32
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    simple things to remember (with any build) pre plan everything.
    1. mock up, than mock up, than do a final mock up. To many times first timers get ahead and have to back step. it took a few builds to finally get that point.
    2. Try not to jump around work in quadrants so as not to over look anything simple.
    3. Map out your wiring even if your not going to run internal.
    6. If your building your exhaust or buying it, make sure your frame is equipped to mount it via bungs or something else the flange bolts can only hold so long and be tightened so much before you have bigger issues.
    5. Don't devalue the pre final build I guess before you do the final finishing and assembly. With any project you always catch the little tid bits you forgot along the way.

    Ik a lot of this is repetitive and long winded but planning is key saves time and money. Also just because it's hard mounted doesn't mean you can't use rubber or I like to use leather washers on oil bags, lights, or anything else to reduce the shake down. Both can be made diy from a craft store or hardware store. As far as going through lights if you don't want led or hid to keep a old school feel I found using a bead of silicone around the inner rim of the light housing and housing ring fixes that issue along with leather or rubber washers on the mounting brackets. I went through 3 headlights in a week before used the silicone trick, after I put 4K on my rigid last season with a old yellow fog light never lost it. If you only but it on the housing and outer housing ring you have the versatility to change the light out without redoing the process.

  13. #33
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    Thanks!!

  14. #34
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    Keep the advice coming! I would love to hear some pointers as well. Planning on hard-tailing my sporty in the next couple years once I feel I've researched enough. I'm a first generation motorcycle enthusiast and none of my friends are into motorcycles never mind hard-tail choppers so any advice would be appreciated.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsaz666 View Post
    I am not "blaming" stripped allen heads to threadlocker at all. When I get an aluminum wheel with stainless hardware and everything is stripped, the one common thing is red loctite. And not just a few drops either, combined with that bolt being over torqued. Most rotors are supposed to between 10 and 35lb/ft or so, combine too much red, over torqued, stainless hardware in aluminum wheel along with the wrong tools and that's the recipe for tearing up the hardware. I'm not saying I am perfect by any means either, I have just enough talent to strip a bolt most days.......
    Stainless to Aluminum absolutely positively REQUIRES some type of lube or you are virtually guaranteed pulled out threads. Red loctite IS overkill for wheels, tho. I use blue for most things and either metal-free anti-seize, assembly lube, or red loctite everywhere else (mostly engine or suspension stuff) Dry fasteners are evil. Poor torque/preload characteristics and corrosion out the ass.
    Last edited by cggorman; 04-14-2016 at 9:52 AM.

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by hhc View Post
    red loctight on everything. i mean everything, at least with the shit roads up here
    What he said.........I held onto my gas tank riding down the highway after the mounting bolts came out

  17. #37
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    Word. LED tail lights. I was putting in a bulb every 2 days for a month before I switched

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by cggorman View Post
    Stainless to Aluminum absolutely positively REQUIRES some type of lube or you are virtually guaranteed pulled out threads. Red loctite IS overkill for wheels, tho. I use blue for most things and either metal-free anti-seize, assembly lube, or red loctite everywhere else (mostly engine or suspension stuff) Dry fasteners are evil. Poor torque/preload characteristics and corrosion out the ass.
    I don't know what the fascination is with stainless hardware lately but it is everywhere.

  19. #39
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    Fascination is cuz it's corrosion resistant. Use anti-seize on NEW stainless hardware too. I like the stuff bit it tends to gall without anti-seize or other barrier on the threads.

  20. #40

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    For the guys having stuff vibrate off do you ever open up your tool bag and go over the bike on a regular basis? Kinda critical on a rigid in my experience and only takes a few minutes

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