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  1. #1
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    Default Shovelhead engine and transmission rebuild !

    I finally decided I wanted to give it a shot and do my first rebuild, so I just recently bought a Shovelhead engine and 4-speed transmission off another member on the site. I've been riding ever since I first joined the Marine Corps and just recently had shoulder surgery from injuries sustained in Afghanistan, so I thought this would be a perfect time to start this project. I appreciate any and all help that I can get! Now first off, I need help identifying and confirming everything. From the engine case # I think it's a 80" 1979 shovel ? I have no clue on the year of the tranny, just that it has STD cases.

    I downloaded the service manual from the .pdf thread, but wasn't able to download the parts manual. It would be helpful if someone had the parts manual i need in a .pdf format. I haven't taken anything a part yet because I am still letting my shoulder heal for a little bit longer, but I was wondering what HD specific tools should I definitely purchase to make things easier? I have a auto hobby shop down the road and it has almost any tool you can think of, but definitely nothing motorcycle specific.

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  2. #2
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    Default

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    ^Other side of the case

    Here's the tranny:
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  3. #3
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    From your motor Vin number you got one of these.....

    Some 1979 engines had totally different numbers. This was a factory idea that was quickly changed after they were notified that it made the bikes look stolen to some law enforcement agencies. The production date range is 1/9/79 - 2/7/79, and the frame VINs affected are or should be 43000H9 through 48199H9. The "crankcase number" is reported to be a ten digit numeric ID.

    Also... Don't think that the tranny came with your motor..
    It's from a latter run...
    Your motor should of had a ratchet top tranny...

    No biggie, being a mis-match.

    And, it being an 80" motor.... IDK about that being Harley was tiring to use up their old stock of flywheels of the 74" motors...
    Your jugs are of the latter run castings that the 80" used, But H-D did use a few of those jugs with a 3-7/16" bore and the 3-31/32" stroke of the 74" motors...

    Could be 74 inch or a 80 inch motor...???
    79 year model was right in the middle of the change-over..
    Last edited by Dragstews; 04-13-2015 at 1:00 PM.

  4. #4
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    Have a plan to title the vehicle and consider getting that sorted out prior to the rest of the build if possible.

    Easiest way is buying a frame with a clean title but those aren't too common.

  5. #5
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    Pinchi farmall be knowing, get that puppy titled before you drop a gang of money and time.
    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    Have a plan to title the vehicle and consider getting that sorted out prior to the rest of the build if possible.

    Easiest way is buying a frame with a clean title but those aren't too common.

  6. #6
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    If you're definitely going to run the trans you could always start tearing that down.

    Or wait for an OE case ratchet top

  7. #7
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    Thanks a lot for the info Dragstews!

    @buddhahood & farmall - I actually contacted my Secretary of State in my home state of IL and he told me the titling process is pretty easy. He's mailing me the application form and said that as long as I have documentation for all the parts and a signed statement saying what I built on what date, then there won't be a problem to issue me the title. Which reminds me, I need to get a bill of sale printed and signed for this engine and trans..

    @Blackberry- would I run into problems running a rotary top with this engine? or is a ratchet top more reliable?

  8. #8
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    Rotary top is more complicated but plenty of dudes run them. It would mate up fine to that motor, no trouble there.

    You trying to jockey shift? If that's the case a ratchet lid would be ideal

  9. #9
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    I finally started the engine tear down:

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    The pistons need new rings for sure. I didn't get around to measuring cylinder bore, still wondering if I should just get new pistons all together. The bolts were hell to get off, so I need a set of those and new gaskets.
    Last edited by inkaddict92; 04-25-2015 at 7:14 PM.

  10. #10
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    The valves had a good seat and I cleaned up the heads a bit. There's a chunk missing out of one of the exhaust ports. Doesn't look too crazy though.
    Last edited by inkaddict92; 04-25-2015 at 7:33 PM.

  11. #11
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    Everything inside the case seemed alright. I just couldn't split them because the press at the shop was down. Wondering what's the best way to flush out the bottom end to rid it of any metal shavings/debris? And does anybody see anything I'm missing that's fucked up?

  12. #12
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    I was told to take kerosene and dump half a goallon in there slosh it around move the fly wheels around then dump it and repeat. Getting ready to do the same to a 66 ironhead I'm building

  13. #13
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    Cool, thanks shovelpan69. I'll definitely try that once I'm at the shop again.

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    What is that center stud in between the tappet blocks for? and I know I have solid lifters, are hydraulic ones more reliable?

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    and these are just OEM pistons? where is the best place to order replacement rings?
    Last edited by inkaddict92; 04-26-2015 at 5:27 PM.

  14. #14
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    Those pistons are the 80" Stroke and Bore.... And are cast 7:1 compression.
    Should see the bore measure 3.500 at STD....

    Need to do a glaze breaking hone job to both jugs... See what you have going on with the wall fit....
    As far as obtaining parts, Ya might see if you can locate a Bike shop in your area... They would be able to help you in more ways than just ordering parts...

    About the stud.... That be one of the case studs...
    The question about the tappets.... Solids do need to be adjusted from time to time...They are a bit noisy .... Hyd is less need and do keep the lash quite.

    Harley use a design that they started in 1953 and used it al the way up till the last Shovel rolled out the factory doors..
    Lots of After/market replacements are out there.... But for a plug and play with keeping your tappet body's you will need to do the OEM design....

    If you do the Hyd... Check to make sure the oil ports are open... Most of the time when solids are installed either the tappet blocks or the case ports will be plugged.
    Last edited by Dragstews; 04-26-2015 at 6:37 PM.

  15. #15
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    Is the 020 and 030 on the pistons mean they are .020 and .030 over STD size? I've ordered all the parts I need except piston rings because I was a little confused. I had a machinist measure everything, but he simply used a caliper....the bores measured out to between 3.515" and 3.510" . The pistons were 3.505" . This definitely doesn't seem right to me. I don't want to play the guessing game with important parts like these, so I'm going back tomorrow to remeasure everything. What is the STD stroke length? I'm assuming my rods and flywheels are stock.
    Last edited by inkaddict92; 04-30-2015 at 7:53 PM.

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