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  1. #21
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    By no means am I telling you what to run....

    But dang-it Son... That flat rear fender is butt ugly....

    You would be in for a little work in making the Sissy bar work with this, do think it would be the best 80 bucks you would spend to add a much better look to your hardtail....



    VT No: 50-0151
    Bobbed rear fender for rigid models has a raw finish with a right side cutout. Fender is 6-3/4" wide.
    Fender measures 7-1/4" wide and 5-1/5" deep and does not include bracket. We suggest pre fitting the fender prior to painting.
    Fits:
    Custom application
    Last edited by Dragstews; 11-21-2014 at 6:27 PM.

  2. #22
    jaredshaunsmith
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    By no means am I telling you what to run....

    But dang-it Son... That flat rear fender is butt ugly....
    haha. thanks for the tip. I actually do really like the square fender though. plus I'm running a Avon safety mileage on the rear and I think the square profile will match up nicely with the shape of that tire.

  3. #23
    jaredshaunsmith
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    Quote Originally Posted by vonhatch View Post
    Not trying to hijack your thread, but there arent many 60xlch sportsters left.....here is mine. I suggest starting to look for a stock frame, just in case you decide to restore it someday. Great score!!!!! Hang onto it!!!
    good idea. I may keep an eye out for a stock frame for the future. your bike looks great

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaredshaunsmith View Post

    I actually do really like the square fender.
    Right-On...

    The only person you have to please..... Is yourself...

    If ya get nuts with your build...

    Might end up with a bike that you will hate to ride in fear of getting it dirty ..... Hate dat when that happens... !!!

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    .................................................. ......

    Vonhatch....

    Talking with Paul Osbone a few weeks ago...
    Asked him if he had any Hi-Pipe's that came OEM on the early CH's..

    He said that he thought he did and would take a look for one in his junk pile...

    Also said that riders that bought a new CH back in the day would take them off in favor of running the dual pipes...



    If ya had the Hots for that pipe...
    Give T&O a call .... 316-682-4781
    Last edited by Dragstews; 11-22-2014 at 11:55 AM.

  5. #25
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    I lived down the street from T&O in the seventies.....2 years there in the usaf.....good times, and actually made it to the final round drag racing against them....I broke out damnit!!! Thanks for the tip!

  6. #26
    jaredshaunsmith
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    Small steps today, was busy with family time for a bit of the day but i managed to soda blast and degrease my sprocket cover and clutch worm gear. it was the first time I've soda blasted, and I snagged the $20 spot blasting gun from harbor freight - it worked for about 2 minutes before clogging to the point where i couldn't unclog it. i switched over to the air wand + tube method and it worked better than the HF gun (go figure).

    my beard looked like i jumped in a cocaine swimming pool when i was done

    before:


         

    after:
    Last edited by jaredshaunsmith; 11-23-2014 at 10:33 PM. Reason: image urls were broken

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaredshaunsmith View Post

    after:
    Kinda got a wonder going on seeing those chain cutting marks inside the cover...

    If you push in on the sprocket and then pull out on it.... About how much movement are you seeing...???

  8. #28
    jaredshaunsmith
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    If you push in on the sprocket and then pull out on it.... About how much movement are you seeing...???
    almost no movement at all actually - just checked after i read your message.

    i didn't notice any scrubbing at all when the bike was together and i rolled it around. wonder if these cuts are from an old setup or something...?

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaredshaunsmith View Post

    Almost no movement at all actually.

    Wonder if these cuts are from an old setup or something...?
    Most likely from old war wounds.....

    Could take it as some of the previous owners did service to it when needed...
    .....Damn good sign that it was cared for...!!!

    The 4-speed Sportie trans seems to have a high wear factor to it.
    That's mostly because when they get mega miles on them and are in dyer need of servicing, they don't get it ...
    More miles are laid down in a poor working condition leading to more problems and perhaps major damage....

    They are not an easy task to set up all the parts back to good specks....

    Your transmission sprocket looks to be a super small tooth count... That's will be great for stoplight to stoplight riding in town, but on the superslab will have it taching high rev's tiring to keep up with traffic...

    21 T was OEM ..

    .................................................. ......................................

    Here's an item that you should give some thought about purchasing....



    Made by a Fellow that goes by the name of Chevelle....

    Replaces the OEM stock weak unit that will leave your ass on the side of the road at 2 o-clock in the morning.....
    His worm gear allows for running the stronger clutch spring rates with confidences...
    Last edited by Dragstews; 11-23-2014 at 11:01 AM.

  10. #30
    jaredshaunsmith
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    Today I Stripped down top end, and cleaned my garage - guess which one took longer?

    Organized parts ready for some cleaning:



                   

    Front cylinder:

                   

    Top end off - you can see the pretty rough scoring on the pistons:

                   



    Top of front piston - planning to oversize to 040 when i rebuild:

                   


    and... unrelated - I finished up building and installing this scissor arm lamp for Brucius (http://instagram.com/_brucius_) at black and blue tattoo in SF today - :
    Last edited by jaredshaunsmith; 11-23-2014 at 11:22 PM.

  11. #31
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    Wow...

    Digging pretty deep into the motor....

    From the way the pistons look.... Dang good thing...!!

    Does the rods have much shake to them..?? If so,might want to dig a little deeper.
    Wrist pin bushings have much wear..?? Those are fairly easy to replace without taking the motor all the way down, if needed.

    If ya wanted to gain a few more ponys...
    Could hunt up a set of 70-71 heads.
    They will bolt up on your jugs with no problems..
    Harley kinda was tooling up for the 1000cc motors and made those two years of the last 900cc heads with the larger ports and valves of the 1000cc specks...

    Also...
    If you want to have a bit more of a Hot-Rod...

    I have a fresh bore job at .070 over fitted to new J&E Forged pistons (Special Order to my specks) set of 900cc jugs...
    These are made for the stock stroke, Comes with Rings, Pins & Clips .... Plug & Play ..

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    If these are something you would be interested in, PM me and we will talk turkey or piglet....

    And I have a set of 70 and back heads that I'm installing new KPMI XLR valves, Ampco 45 guides, and .600 spring kit..
    They are not done... Got them to trade on...
    Can finish them to whatever cam grind you would be running...????
    Last edited by Dragstews; 11-24-2014 at 1:02 PM.

  12. #32
    jaredshaunsmith
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Wow...

    Digging pretty deep into the motor....
    Oh yeah! forgot to mention there's a pretty significant oil leak along the seam of the cases, so I'll have to go all the way down I think... unless you have another suggestion for fixing leaky cases...?

    I sent you a PM... but, you're way over my head with ".600 spring kit... cam grind..." stuff. You lost me.

  13. #33
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    Not much of a easy way to fix a seam leak that I know of...
    Have seen some Boys glue the seam with Hard setting Yama-Bon or JB-Weld....

    The good part about taking the cases that far apart is your going to be able to see all the parts and what ware that they have on them...
    Right case will slip right off of the pinion bearings...
    Left case is a press job to get the crank out of it...The sprocket shaft is on Timkens..That only needs to come out if you intend to service the crank assembly .... As in doing a balance job or tighten up bearing specks (Rods and Pinion) or replace flywheel washers...(If needed)

    As far as the Cams go....
    Look at what Andrews or Leineweber has to offer...
    The valve lift on a stock stroke Sportie should stay below .480....
    "R" valves are pretty much for all out racing with large cubes...

  14. #34
    jaredshaunsmith
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    hey y'all happy thanksgiving!

    quick update: I dropped my top end off at hannan's machine shop in Hayward day before yesterday. he's boring out to 040, dropping in new pistons and rings, doing a valve job, new seats, and blasting everything ready for new paint. plus my top motor mount on my rear head was cracked almost all the way through and he had a replacement laying around and is tossing that in on the deal for free! seems like a good dude. should be finished in a week.

    last night I took a cut off wheel to one of my fork lowers then a grinding disc. I wasn't really sure what I was going to do after that to round it out and polish. sort of stumbled on a really good method... ended up cradling the ends of the fork in my hands and pushing it up to the belt sander, the momentum of the belt forced the fork into a spin and I just controlled it via the amount of pressure I was putting on it. threw my welding gloves on to help with the heat it was generating to my hands. did this first with 80 then 120 on the belt and then spent a couple hours wet sanding with 600 grit and then finally scotch brite. super stoked on how it turned out.

    the other leg will be a bit more of a challenge since I plan to leave the caliper mount and only want to shave the fender bungs and reflector flat spot off it... will make the belt sander method harder for sure.

    I suggest the belt sander method though if anyone else is wanting shaved legs and, like me doesn't have a lathe.
    Last edited by jaredshaunsmith; 11-27-2014 at 9:42 PM.

  15. #35
    jaredshaunsmith
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    Default i hate sandpaper

    Finished shaving my legs today. The brake-side leg took about 8 hours start to finish since i couldn't use the belt sander at all because of the position of the caliper mount.

    Most of the time spent was hand filing the tube back into round after cutting off the mounts.

    Don't think i'll ever do these by hand again but i'll sure be happy looking at them on my bike when i get it back together.

    Cutting off the first mount:

        

    Cutting off the second mount, super tedious making sure i didn't take too much off the bottom so i'd have enough material to work with to slope out from the caliper mount:

        

    The mess that was left:

        


    Starting to smooth out with multiple hand files:

        


    A few passes in with 150 grit by hand:

        


    Finished with 220 and then 600 grit wet sand, and then scotch brite:

        

  16. #36

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    They turned out great! Nice work

  17. #37
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    Man, your going the long mile with it.....

    You hit every part on that bike like you have shown, your going to have a pretty slick bike when done...

  18. #38
    jaredshaunsmith
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    Default mags and carbs

    Cleaned up and polished my mag today. It was pretty cruddy inside and I'm going to run a clear cap on it so that wouldn't do.

    Question: do any of you know if I can add a key to this mag?

    I planned to take it all the way down, but as you can see in the first picture the spacer / cam / lock ring / whatever that thing is that has a pin going through it has a hairline crack in it - I don't think this crack will affect its usability at all, but I do think that popping that press pin out and dissasembling the whole unit would mean I would have to replace that - so I opted for the leave-it-together-and-clean-it approach. If it gives me trouble or seems to be cracking more after I ride the bike around town for a bit I'll pull it and replace that piece.



    When I started today - crusty and dirty insides:


    Clearly the gasket had failed and water had gotten down in here - also my old cap had a crack in it big enough for water to get through:


    Starting to clean up with brass wire brush and wd-40:


    Cleaning up the outside of the case - this is at about the 200 grit wet sand stage:


    Reassembled inners - all shiny and clean:


    Back together after scotch brite polish and with new clear cap:


    Detail of the cap with lightning bolt!



    Ok, topic number two - my carb:

    This is the guy that came with the bike - it's REAL crusty - looks like it was set on fire at some point. Worth saving it or should I drop the cash on a super E shorty?
     


  19. #39
    jaredshaunsmith
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Man, your going the long mile with it.....

    You hit every part on that bike like you have shown, your going to have a pretty slick bike when done...
    you bet i am! polishing every bolt and washer on this thing.

    started sketching up a crazy stainless sissy bar last night and bought the 3/8" stainless for it today

  20. #40
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    I laughed at the cocaine beard comment because I thought the same when I soda blasted my engine cases.


    Great job man. I feel you on some of this manual-never-doing-that-again-by-hand stuff. BTW, was that a typo for your sissy bar? 3/8"? Did you mean 5/8"?

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