How to: Triumph OIF to pre-OIF frame

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  • TanDawg100
    Member
    • Oct 2009
    • 44

    How to: Triumph OIF to pre-OIF frame

    This subject has come up before and the answers are somewhat vague. Apparently Moore’s Cycle and SRM make kits for this- however being a machinist I always want to make my own stuff so I plunged into the nuances and befuddlements of this adaptation.

    To be clear this is a '70 TR6 frame and a '71 or '72 front steering head. It has the big scoop drum brake. There may be slight differences with other years of both frames and front ends.
    (I actually "dual pathed" this whole scenario- I first tried to use the original OIF steering stem bearings with my own sleeves to fit the '70 frame- I'll get into why this didn't work in a bit.)

    Okay let's look at the steering stem- Triumph couldn't have created a more difficult situation in regards to the stem and the changes they made when they went from the earlier frames to the OIF:


    On the left is the steering head stem and lower clamp that typically fits a pre-OIF frame. On the right is the OIF steering head stem and lower clamp.
    On the pre-OIF the stem measures about .994" until you get to the step at the base of the stem where you see some braze- there it jumps to the larger diameter of 1.064". The I.D. of the bottom bearing in the Lowbrow Customs tapered bearing kit (For converting the unit frame to tapered roller bearings) is 1.0625" so it is about a .0015" press fit on this slightly larger diameter.
    On the OIF stem the stem at the bearing locations measures exactly .750". The step at the base of the OIF stem measures 1.051"- roughly .013" smaller than the pre-OIF! So you cannot get a good register fit of the bearing I.D. on this OIF step because it is simply too small!
    The bearing is around .575" in length, the step on the OIF is about .250" in length so you can make a spacer that is 1.0625" O.D., .750" I.D. and .325" long that when slipped into the bearing favoring the top half or the smaller end of the bearings taper- it will now allow it to fit flush with the base of the stem clamp and will register on the original bearing surface making it a good solid- registered fit.
    (I happened to have some A-2 tool steel that was exactly 1.0625" OD- with a bit of polishing it slips into the bearing snuggly- I then drilled and bored it for the .750" I.D. so that it fits the stem nicely. You could use any steel- but A-2, O-1 and drill rod is available in the exact O.D. that you need and typically comes with an almost ground like surface on the O.D.)
    I think the photos are self explanatory:


    So now we have the lower bearing properly fit to the OIF steering stem.


    Next is the top bearing situation.
    The Lowbrow bearing kit's top bearing is identical to the bottom bearing dimensionally except it had a dust shield swedged into it but only part way:

    In this photo I already have the spacer slipped into it up to where the dust shield extends into the bearing I.D. I made this spacer identical to the bottom one except I made it about .500" in length to be sure it would register on the OIF stems bearing surface.

    The OIF stem nut slips nicely into the swedged dust shield and will come up against the spacer I have fitted to the I.D. of the bearing.

    Okay to recap- we now have spacers that allow the Lowbrow bearings to properly register and fit on our OIF stem- the hard parts done! Once you install the races into the frame as per the usual methods as shown in English 101 and so forth you can simply grease your bearings, slip the lower one onto the stem, slide the stem up through the steering head and install the top bearing with the dust shield- then the top clamp then the steering stem nut and snug it all down and Bob's your uncle!
    Except for one thing- the lower clamp on the OIF is a bit different in that the little lip that leads up to the machined lower bearing surface is "taller" and will interfere with the frames steering head and not allow the bearing to seat properly:

    In this photo you can see a shiny spot and a burr where I milled some material away on the vertical lip coming from the bolt hole area of the forging/casting. I in fact need to do it a bit more. Study the two clamps in this area- I think you'll see the differences:

    Once this is properly clearance everything should fit up sweetly! The original fork stops will work too.

    The one thing I'm going to do is make an aluminum or possibly a steel tube to slip over the stem to be captured between the two spacers- why? To make sure that they don't slip out of the bearings to the middle of the stem. Now this get's a bit tricky because you can't measure exactly what the distance between the two is once it's installed. But you can install it all with out the tube spacer and measure how much your steering stem extends above the dust shield on the top. you have to hold it tightly in place and then measure- mine was roughly 5/16". Pull it out of the steering head, mock it up on the bench and measure between the two bearing spacers inside to inside on the stem- this will get you close- I'd make it a bit shy of this over all length- the main thing is that the spacers never slip down or up completely out of the bearings- this way you keep them in place- make sense? If not I can photo graph this as well. Just make sure everything tightens up properly and there is no vertical play in the steering head assembly once it is installed.

    There you have it- or at least what I came up with!

    Okay so now why can't we use the OIF's original .750" I.D. bearings?
    I tried this first- got some new bearings and races. (Which in a standard size like that are really inexpensive I might add!) I then went to the work of actually making the sleeve to press onto the races that will allow it to fit the pre OIF frames steering head. But before I made the sleeve I took this much smaller race and held it in the area that it should seat on in the steering head- and as I feared it really didn't sit properly due to the radius on the outside bottom edge of the race and the flat in the steering head which was just narrow enough I was afraid the race could possibly pound into the portion of the steering head below the race flats. I hope this makes sense- I can do a drawing to clarify. I thought "no problem"- I'll just make a "cup" with a bottom that will allow it to seat properly in the steering heads race pocket. Here is what I came up with:


    Sweet! So I installed these into the steering head and slipped the OIF stem and lower clamp in place and slapped the top clamp in place and... The stem just didn't come up far enough that I felt like I would get the stem nut adequately threaded on there.
    If you look closely these smaller bearings are Taller. Plus the OIF bearing sits on top of the larger O.D. part at the base of the stem. That along with the fact that I had to make a pocket style sleeve (even though the bottom thin flange in my pockets is only about .040") the multiple stack ups was just too much and my stem came up short.
    So in the end I went back to the early tapered roller bearing conversion kit and made the "internal" spacers- this gave me adequate stem extension out of the top to get the nut threaded on good. You might be able to find shorter .750" I.D. bearings... but they get expensive... so I went the other way and I believe it will work out much better.
    I hope this helps others making this conversion in the future.
  • Howitzer
    Junior Member
    • Mar 2010
    • 15

    #2
    Good post. Thanks for the edification.

    Comment

    • KT
      Senior Member
      • Aug 2009
      • 976

      #3
      GREAT POST! very indepth Nice work also....

      Comment

      • Howitzer
        Junior Member
        • Mar 2010
        • 15

        #4
        Do you know if the Lowbrow Customs tapered bearing kit (For converting the unit frame to tapered roller bearings) will fit a set of pre-unit forks. They bottom tree looks like the one you have pictured on the left except my forks have these two "wings" on them. I wanted to order that set from lowbrow but I'm not sure if they will fit my forks. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

        Originally posted by TanDawg100



        Last edited by Howitzer; 04-05-2010, 12:43 AM.

        Comment

        • TanDawg100
          Member
          • Oct 2009
          • 44

          #5
          Originally posted by Howitzer
          Do you know if the Lowbrow Customs tapered bearing kit (For converting the unit frame to tapered roller bearings) will fit a set of pre-unit forks. They bottom tree looks like the one you have pictured on the left except my forks have these two "wings" on them. I wanted to order that set from lowbrow but I'm not sure if they will fit my forks. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
          I haven't looked into that particular application- however if you hit Tyler or Kyle (or Wes or any number of these guys) they should be able to tell you. Triumph loved to make little changes on everything from year to year or model to model so be specific when you ask those guys. I'm fairly certain there will be a bearing kit available for your application.

          Comment

          • gravelveins
            Senior Member
            • Aug 2009
            • 435

            #6
            now, if you could just do this for a 69 BSA neck...i would think you're totally killer.

            i mean this is already an awesome thread with tons of valuable info...
            but i don't really feel like paying over $100 to get some tapered roller bearings from somewhere in the UK.

            Comment

            • TanDawg100
              Member
              • Oct 2009
              • 44

              #7
              Originally posted by gravelveins
              now, if you could just do this for a 69 BSA neck...i would think you're totally killer.

              i mean this is already an awesome thread with tons of valuable info...
              but i don't really feel like paying over $100 to get some tapered roller bearings from somewhere in the UK.
              Sooo... I take it that the only tapered bearings available for your BSA are $100? Should be very similar to Triumph- if not the same I would think but I don't know for sure... anyone know the answer?

              Comment

              • Tyler
                Senior Member
                • Jul 2009
                • 542

                #8
                Originally posted by Howitzer
                Do you know if the Lowbrow Customs tapered bearing kit (For converting the unit frame to tapered roller bearings) will fit a set of pre-unit forks. They bottom tree looks like the one you have pictured on the left except my forks have these two "wings" on them. I wanted to order that set from lowbrow but I'm not sure if they will fit my forks. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
                Pre unit fork should have the same neck from '54 on up for sure. The lower tree you are describing, if it has 'wings' that stick pretty far out sounds like the mid to late 50s front ends, those wings are the fork stops. The top of the stem should be 1" OD and the bottom of the stem where it steps out a bit where the bearing sits should be about 1.0625" or so. If you have a digital caliper measure it to be sure, but it sounds right. Do you have any idea what year the front end is?

                Tyler

                Comment

                • gravelveins
                  Senior Member
                  • Aug 2009
                  • 435

                  #9
                  tri and bsa front ends look almost identical except for the stem size..i think BSA stems are larger(?)
                  i've sourced tapered bearings from some stores overseas...
                  and it's like $90 for the bearings itself...but then they bite you in the but with the shipping.

                  oh well...gotta do what you really gotta do sometimes i guess.
                  just want to make my bike right and good.

                  Comment

                  • TanDawg100
                    Member
                    • Oct 2009
                    • 44

                    #10
                    Originally posted by gravelveins
                    tri and bsa front ends look almost identical except for the stem size..i think BSA stems are larger(?)
                    i've sourced tapered bearings from some stores overseas...
                    and it's like $90 for the bearings itself...but then they bite you in the but with the shipping.

                    oh well...gotta do what you really gotta do sometimes i guess.
                    just want to make my bike right and good.
                    Don't be so quick to give up- do as Tyler suggested and get some calipers or a 1"-2" micrometer and measure where the bottom bearing slips onto the stem. Odd's are he can fix you up with what you need. 50 bucks beats the hell outta 100 bucks...

                    Comment

                    • Howitzer
                      Junior Member
                      • Mar 2010
                      • 15

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Tyler
                      Pre unit fork should have the same neck from '54 on up for sure. The lower tree you are describing, if it has 'wings' that stick pretty far out sounds like the mid to late 50s front ends, those wings are the fork stops. The top of the stem should be 1" OD and the bottom of the stem where it steps out a bit where the bearing sits should be about 1.0625" or so. If you have a digital caliper measure it to be sure, but it sounds right. Do you have any idea what year the front end is?

                      Tyler
                      Thanks for the advice Tyler. I don't know the exact year they are from. I got them from lurkingclass and, if i remember correctly, he said they were early 1950's. I forgot to ask for a specific year. I did find out that those bearing would fit my forks though. The bearings are currently en route, so I can let you guys know how they fit once I get them.
                      Last edited by Howitzer; 04-11-2010, 4:42 PM.

                      Comment

                      • buzzkilr
                        Member
                        • Sep 2009
                        • 69

                        #12
                        I know this post is way old but if anyone is out there from the original thread and can answer my questions I would appreciate it! I'm about to do this same maneuver. 71 OIF forks on a 70 T120r frame. Could I make the shown spacers a little tight for the bearing ID so they are less likely to move up or fall down? Maybe use some bushing Loctite to secure them further? Orrr maybe a piece of PVC tube that isn't too tight lengthwise could be placed in the center?

                        Comment

                        • TriNortchopz
                          Senior Member
                          • Dec 2017
                          • 3256

                          #13
                          the same how-to is posted on JJ by TanDawg, with a few different replies which may be of interest:




                          more here:

                          Triumph T140 forks to pre OIF 650 frame
                          "A bottom yoke and stem top nut from a disc brake Trident would be a better option."
                          Have a 1968 Triumph 650 frame; and a 1977 Triumph T140 front end for install on it. I converted the steering head bearings to tapered rollers like this...


                          Front end options pre unit


                          this may be of interest:

                          FRONT ENDS AND FORK TUBES
                          "The following pictures should help you determine if the front end of your bike is the right type for the year of the bike..."


                          TAPERED ROLLER BEARING SET, FOR 1" STEERING STEM TO TRIUMPH PRE-OIF
                          "This bearing set will allow you to fit a variety of 1" springer and other 1" stem front ends;

                          Triumph 650 twin cylinder 1963-1970 Triumph 350, 500 twin cylinder 1967-74 Triumph 500, 650 pre unit twin cylinder 1954-1962 swing arm frame (please note will not suit early 1954 frames) Triumph triple cylinder 1968-1974 BSA triple cylinder 1969-1971"


                          Front And Rear Suspension
                          custom springers, front forks, front ends, bearing kits and more for your custom built motorcycle! only the finest bobber and chopper parts at a everyday low price here at the factory metal works
                          If buildin' old school choppers was easy, anyone could do it... ain't nobody said it's gonna be easy...

                          Comment

                          • buzzkilr
                            Member
                            • Sep 2009
                            • 69

                            #14
                            Originally posted by TriNortchopz
                            the same how-to is posted on JJ by TanDawg, with a few different replies which may be of interest:




                            more here:

                            Triumph T140 forks to pre OIF 650 frame
                            "A bottom yoke and stem top nut from a disc brake Trident would be a better option."
                            Have a 1968 Triumph 650 frame; and a 1977 Triumph T140 front end for install on it. I converted the steering head bearings to tapered rollers like this...


                            Front end options pre unit


                            this may be of interest:

                            FRONT ENDS AND FORK TUBES
                            "The following pictures should help you determine if the front end of your bike is the right type for the year of the bike..."


                            TAPERED ROLLER BEARING SET, FOR 1" STEERING STEM TO TRIUMPH PRE-OIF
                            "This bearing set will allow you to fit a variety of 1" springer and other 1" stem front ends;

                            Triumph 650 twin cylinder 1963-1970 Triumph 350, 500 twin cylinder 1967-74 Triumph 500, 650 pre unit twin cylinder 1954-1962 swing arm frame (please note will not suit early 1954 frames) Triumph triple cylinder 1968-1974 BSA triple cylinder 1969-1971"


                            Front And Rear Suspension
                            https://oldscoolchoppers.com/collect...orks-and-parts
                            Hey thanks! Again! Just saw your reply today. Seems super do able!

                            Comment

                            • buzzkilr
                              Member
                              • Sep 2009
                              • 69

                              #15
                              Ok so I made the spacers as described above. But now I'm a bit confused. Won't the stem nut just drive my top .500 spacer right out of the bearing when I tighten it up?

                              Comment

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