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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by killersoundz View Post
    Awesome man! One question I planned on using slugs like this as well. I see you drilled holes too which I figured I would do too. Are you leaving a gap inbetween the tubes as well like this when you get the slugs just to get some weld on the slugs too?
    I left an 1/8" gap between the tubes to make sure I got decent penetration on the slug with the root pass.

  2. #22
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    Been looking at my options for fixing the top end. Anyone have experience with the wiseco 844 kit on the 750 gs's? It's around $500 for the whole setup and I would have to get the cylinders bored. I have a local machine shop to do the boring/honing work for cheap. Anything else I should do to the bottom end while I'm in there? Replace timing chain and guides etc? All my motor work experience is with racing quad motors and Brit bikes so I have no idea what to look for with these older GS motors.

  3. #23
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    Got the upper seat rails welded in yesterday.


    Pics with the tank on




    Going to install seat post today and finish out all the welding. Then it will be taken off of the jig so I can get it to a roller and begin fab work on fenders, seat mounts, etc.

  4. #24
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    i would put the timing chain and guides in it if it were mine. coming along very nicely.

  5. #25
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    Seat post is in. Took it off of the jig and did a quick mock up with the stock forks because I wanted to see what it looks like as a bike again.


  6. #26

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    I love the stance of this bike! Great job so far fella

  7. #27
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    nice

  8. #28
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    Wasn't feeling the king queen seat overlapping the fender like this


    So I decided to see what the bike would look like with the biltwell solo off of my BSA. Also raised the tank on the backbone a bit.


    I think I like the look of the bike with the solo and the raised tank a lot better so that's the direction I am going to take.

  9. #29
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    the k/q seat and girder i was really liking that look.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackchop View Post
    the k/q seat and girder i was really liking that look.
    Agreed, love the stance and look of this bike with the k/q seat. I would try to get that seat to fit better and stay on that road.

  11. #31
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    Thanks for the votes on the king queen seat and the girder but unfortunately the girder is too long and would require too much rework to get to the point where I would trust it going down the road. I am also not sure how much I like the king queen shape. I think I am going to go with the solo seat and use an old springer fork I have laying around that will require a lot less rework. The springer should bring my trail numbers in line and give me the look I'm after.

    I did make some progress on my motor mounts this weekend. Got the lower mounts fabbed out of 1/4" x 1" flat stock and welded onto the frame.


    Cut the beginnings of the mounting points out of the same material and rounded them off in prep for welding onto the seat post. Pilot drilled them in my drill press, will drill and tap once I determine the bolt size I want to run.


    Welded them to the seat post with the top level with the mounting points on the motor. I will have to drill and tap the mounts and fab up some brackets to go between the mounts and the motor but having removable upper brackets should make installing the motor in the frame a lot easier.

  12. #32
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    GS power? Low slung frame? Mustang tank? Solo saddle?
    You're crazy, that'll never work!



    No wait... yes it will!


    LOVE the stance! Are those the stock GS750 forks? Cuz, they look great! You got me thinking I need to build another GS! Great work!

  13. #33
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    So I had an old springer I got with an old BSA parts bike I bought last year. I tried to cut it down to make it work on the BSA but it didn't pan out. I am now going to extend it to work on the GS. I drew the front end up in CAD and it should bring my trail numbers back to about 5" or so instead of the 11" it's at with the stock forks.

    Cut two sections of 1-1/4" DOM 12" long to sleeve the 1" tube on the old rear legs.


    Slotted the leg extensions 3" from the bottom to fit the new rocker mounts. Drilled holes inline with my drill press and cut out the remainder with my bandsaw, filed the rest for a snug fit on the plate steel.


    Here's a pic of the first extension and the new rocker mount next to the incomplete one. Drilled the new tube for rosette welding to the round stock leg of the rear springer leg, will chamfer the holes once it's all mocked up for welding to the old springer leg. I think that between the rosette welds and the weld around the end of the tube to the springer leg I should be good to go.


    I am going to bevel the slots in the tube and use a lot of preheat from my torch when I weld to the stock springer leg to make sure I get good penetration on all my welds. I am going to drill the round stock legs about 1/16" deep to make sure i get through the chrome and grind around where i make the fillet weld so i get past the chrome to base metal. Any other suggestions to make sure this thing doesn't fail on me from you professionals would be appreciated.

  14. #34
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    Got the lower pivot points on the rear legs welded out today. Will take a flap disc and smooth them out later. All welds were made after significant pre heating with the torch.




    Also finished out the plug welds on both legs. Hope it holds lol! Again lots of preheat helped out, it was a long process but I think it's better to overkill these things sometimes for peace of mind.




    A 21" rim and hub from a kdx 250 is on its way, scored it on eBay for $0.99 with $12.00 shipping. Hopefully it gets here early this week. It has a 15 mm axle so i will have to run some bushings in the rockers.

    Also picked up a high tunnel mustang tank since the one I have has a deep tunnel and I think the bike looks better with the tank sitting higher on the backbone.

    I also picked up a 5.5" wide chrome spare tire cover on eBay to run for a fender. Will see what kind of shape it's in when it gets here. I'm kind of hoping it doesn't need much work or straightening prior to paint.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by baelzbub View Post
    GS power? Low slung frame? Mustang tank? Solo saddle?
    You're crazy, that'll never work!



    No wait... yes it will!


    LOVE the stance! Are those the stock GS750 forks? Cuz, they look great! You got me thinking I need to build another GS! Great work!
    Yep those are the stock forks. They may actually be up for sale soon pending on how the springer forks turn out

  16. #36
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    Impressive work man.

  17. #37
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    man that thing is looking sweet!

  18. #38
    Jetblack
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    Digging the quality of your welds man; nice job.

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jetblack View Post








    Digging the quality of your welds man; nice job.
    Thanks, they aren't anywhere near the level of some on this forum but I'm getting better lol.

  20. #40
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    Thanks for the compliments guys, I really appreciate it.

    So my rockers are setup for a 5/8" axle, the 21" kdx wheel that I want to run is setup for a 15mm axle. I am thinking my best option is to drill out the rocker to 20mm and press in some 20mm OD 15mm ID bronze bushings like this http://www.amazon.com/Bunting-Bearin.../dp/B003HIX8AQ to make the 21" dirtbike drum hub work.

    Or I could try to find some 5/8" ID bearings with the same OD as the dirtbike hub. Any suggestions? I don't have the dirtbike hub here yet tto measure off of so I'm just trying to get ideas together.

    My main concern with the bushing is getting them pressed in square and with a tight fit on the rocker.

    Links to online bearing suppliers that are affordable? The bearings seem like the easier solution as long as I can get the correct fit.

    Thanks

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