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Thread: 01 shadow bob

  1. #1
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    Default 01 shadow bob

    All right guys, this is my winter project, so mods will be sporadic. however, here are a few pics to start with. Overall plans are a hardtail, black paint with blue pearl, velo stack, 2-up Le Pera, custom pegs and grips, drag bars, possibly some BT Evo pipes, if I can make em work right, and probably a BKC fender with a custom sissy, OL likes her sissy bars....as do I, great to tie stuff to. Anyway, just got this stack in today from Steel Dragon Performance, and it is killer! $40 shipped to my door, and custom made to order, well worth it!!

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails stack.jpg   stack1.jpg   stack2.jpg   stack4.jpg   stack3.jpg  


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    Default new stack

    the guy that made the stack sent me another version for free, he just wanted some pics for his website! i think i likes it better... sold the fender to some cat on ebay, so now begins the choppin! looks much better with no speedo!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails shadowchop.jpg   shadowchop001.jpg  

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    who sells that stack?

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  5. #5
    NHMike
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    Looks killer man.

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    thanks, i plan on makin it much more killer!

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    they are still awesome! the radiator i can live with, although i dont care much for the dual backbone...

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    Quote Originally Posted by enzoline View Post
    if these had a single tube backbone and no radiator stuck to the front they would be awesome. i've seen both of these things done but it's alot of work
    single tube backbone isnt really feasible for a lot of people, so I started fabbing tanks that fit the split backbone. i make the tunnel of the tank to a customers specs, so the tank sits at the height they want.
    And technically you CAN remove the radiator, just as you CAN remove the tires, or the forks or the bars... but it doesnt mean the bike will run well. granted the cylinders are staggered so the rear cylinder gets some fresh air, unlike oil cooled engines which have their cylinders in line. which means your rear cylinder gets no less that 150 degrees of heat all the time.
    the coolant system on these bikes allows the engine to remain cool enough so that you do get 4,000,000 miles out of it before you need to do any engine work. higher heat obviously degrades the engine faster and the cooler you can keep a small engine like the VT600, the longer its life will be. removing the radiator isnt something i would recommend, having worked on these bikes for some time now, I can say they definitely do run better when they have a coolant system thats functioning. I have ridden the VLX without coolant and yeah it worked fine, but I definitely noticed the engine wasnt nearly as happy and didnt perform nearly as well as when it had coolant.
    those little jap fellers engineer the fuck out of these bikes and they build them to last a long time and to put up with a lot of abuse, and yeah theres some double redundant systems but the cooling system isnt one of the systems i would want to reduce too much.

    now i have explored the options of using a smaller fluid cooler to replace the rad, but you can only safely use a fluid cooler thats about half the size of the stock rad, before you run the risk of inadequate cooling. ive found a few that would work, but for the cost involved, it didnt make sense for me at the time i looked into it.

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    i have thought about the 21 in the front,anyone done it? what is needed for proper function with the factory brake setup? or a conversion with the rear to a bigger rim with a disc? such as this one, which has no rear brake, and the front brake is powered off of the foot pedal...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails green.JPG   green%20horse%20bobber.JPG  

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    I always though JChop76 cleaned up his ride nicely. He also put a 21 up front.

    Link Here.

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    did some work, removed the side covers and all the crap under it, and the subframe. the exhaust is oof too, anybody gotta set of drags they wanna sell real cheap-like?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails shadowchopped005.jpg   shadowchopped 003.jpg   shadowchopped 004.jpg  

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    to all you guys runnin hardtail shadows with oil bags, do you just stuff the electronics in the bag, or do you have them mounted in some way? pics would be nice too...

  13. #13
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    ill get some pics for you, ive made a few different versions.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ercle69 View Post
    i have thought about the 21 in the front,anyone done it? what is needed for proper function with the factory brake setup? or a conversion with the rear to a bigger rim with a disc? such as this one, which has no rear brake, and the front brake is powered off of the foot pedal...
    man thats sexy as hell. is that the stock tank dished or did you buy one

  15. #15
    toxiceric
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    Quote Originally Posted by ercle69 View Post
    i have thought about the 21 in the front,anyone done it? what is needed for proper function with the factory brake setup? or a conversion with the rear to a bigger rim with a disc? such as this one, which has no rear brake, and the front brake is powered off of the foot pedal...
    Very nice!

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJBC View Post
    single tube backbone isnt really feasible for a lot of people, so I started fabbing tanks that fit the split backbone. i make the tunnel of the tank to a customers specs, so the tank sits at the height they want.
    And technically you CAN remove the radiator, just as you CAN remove the tires, or the forks or the bars... but it doesnt mean the bike will run well. granted the cylinders are staggered so the rear cylinder gets some fresh air, unlike oil cooled engines which have their cylinders in line. which means your rear cylinder gets no less that 150 degrees of heat all the time.
    the coolant system on these bikes allows the engine to remain cool enough so that you do get 4,000,000 miles out of it before you need to do any engine work. higher heat obviously degrades the engine faster and the cooler you can keep a small engine like the VT600, the longer its life will be. removing the radiator isnt something i would recommend, having worked on these bikes for some time now, I can say they definitely do run better when they have a coolant system thats functioning. I have ridden the VLX without coolant and yeah it worked fine, but I definitely noticed the engine wasnt nearly as happy and didnt perform nearly as well as when it had coolant.
    those little jap fellers engineer the fuck out of these bikes and they build them to last a long time and to put up with a lot of abuse, and yeah theres some double redundant systems but the cooling system isnt one of the systems i would want to reduce too much.

    now i have explored the options of using a smaller fluid cooler to replace the rad, but you can only safely use a fluid cooler thats about half the size of the stock rad, before you run the risk of inadequate cooling. ive found a few that would work, but for the cost involved, it didnt make sense for me at the time i looked into it.
    I have been curious what the life expectancy of the vlx is. I know if the engine took a shit it would probably cost more than I paid for the whole bike to fix. That makes me a bit hesitant to stick any more money into it. I have something like 22K miles on mine, anyone have any experience with engine problems or have a shitload of miles with no problems?

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    all i know is at 20,000 plus miles on the other, and 10,000 plus on this one with NO probs other than a couple of blown fuses, they pretty hard to beat. and ive seen complete engines go for 4-500 bucks here and there too. ive considered picking on up for spare parts and some possible tear-it-all-down and hop-it-back-up......

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackout View Post
    man thats sexy as hell. is that the stock tank dished or did you buy one
    not my scoot, but it is a stock tank thats been dished.

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    all right starting to redo the switches. ive ripped em off the bars, gonna run a little button for the starter and delete the kill switch, anybody have pics or diagrams of what they have done to the headlight side? what about the 2 wires on the clutch lever, any problems with this bein disconnected? signals are deleted, so thats taken care of. horn will be taken care of easily too. i plan on just running a fused wire from the battery to a push button switch to the starter directly and using the key or kickstand as a kill switch, anyone see a problem? this worked on my ole sporty, although i sold the sporty before i got to ride the bugs out of it... thanks in advance...

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    also lookin for info on puttin a harley 16x5.5 rim on the honda hub so it will bolt up nice and pretty. anybody done this or got info on this? anybody be willin to do that kinda thing for a small fee? i wanna mount up a 200mm tire and i dont think it will fit too well on a 3" wide rim, i had a 180 on there before, anybody think 200mm is stretchin too far?

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